l2550 GST-Assembly Replacement

Rockon75 · Aug 17, 2014

Looking for some help on replacing part number, 32420-72510 (assembly guide s-change).

I just bought an '89 l2550 gst tractor from my friend knowing that he could not get the tractor in the lower gears. He stated that the cable rusted and froze and then the gear selection lever was forced to the point that the cable housing was pushed out of the upper part of the s-cable assembly by the speed lever. It looks like I'll need to disconnect a few parts around the clutch pedal and a bunch of parts around the speed lever. Am I overlooking something here, or do all these parts need to be disassembled to make the s-cable change?

Also, does the transmission need to be in a certain gear to orient the s-cable assembly to whatever it controls inside the transmission? It seems like it would need to be oriented. Any help on this would be great as well.

Any additional hints and are there any parts that I'll need to do the job right that I should replace during this replacement. For example seals, etc.

Messick's is not far from me so I'll probably be heading up after calling in a parts order.

Rockon75 · Aug 18, 2014

TTT

I may not be referring to the part properly. This is the assembly that connects to the shift lever and the transmission housing. Two cable system with a housing on both ends. Any help would be appreciated.
thx

North Idaho Wolfman · Aug 18, 2014

Please sit down... Have nitro pills ready!

The part you thought you needed is not the part you need!
The part # you list is just a guide and not the cable assembly.
The part you thought you needed is only $150.50

The cable assembly is # 32420-72600
http://www.messicks.com/partsearch.aspx?pn=32420-72600&ven=KU
and gasket # 32425-72690
http://www.messicks.com/partsearch.aspx?pn=32425-72690&ven=KU

Cable is $479.43

but hey the gasket is only $2.72

Now onto replacement easy as pie, since you can not move the lever to neutral you'll have to do it after the fact just unbolt the shift cover on the side of the transmission 3 Bolts I do believe, pull strait off, and you'll see this:

With a wrench turn the selector till the dot is up that's neutral.
unbolt the other side, and remove cable assembly, replace starting on that side place shifter in neutral, when reinstalling transmission side first dry fit to see if the parts align if not you might have to adjust cables to get it to align to neutral, then after install, before reinstalling covers dry run and make sure it goes in every gear.

Rockon75 · Aug 19, 2014

Thanks a bunch. The pics and explanation are great.

Rockon75 · Aug 19, 2014

I placed the order today. I did end up getting a workshop manual as well. It will be a week but I'll post he it goes.

chris989 · Nov 11, 2016

I have a question about the cable assembly if anyone can help.

I have developed a leak and at first I thought it was a simple o ring in the cable assemble but it appears to be a complete unit. I called the dealer and I was told the ASSY CABLE S-CHANGE should be dry. As if i took it off no oil would come out of the trans and i should not have trans oil getting in there. Is this accurate?

Second, it appears my model L3450 has o-ring on the inside of the case and not a seal that is serviceable from the outside????

Anyhoo, if anyone has insight to how to stop this leak or how much the trans has to be broken down to get to this o-ring.

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 12, 2016

In order to get to that O-ring, it's rather involved.
you need to remove the side cover.
The real issue is that some of the parts need to stay in the transmission, the 2 groups of parts in blue, to get to the parts in red.

You can only pull the cover out about 1/2" if you don't unbolt the blocks in blue.
and when you reassemble the side cover it takes some talent and patience to line up the shift blocks with the side cover before you can close it up.
There is also 80 some O-Rings in there, and when you unbolt the blocks some of the bolts will even have O-Rings as washers for sealing.

Didn't I send you a link to download the WSM, for your tractor?
If not PM me for a link.

chris989 · Nov 12, 2016

You did send me the link, That is the service manual i am using. The details in the manual must be from a different model because it does not look like the diagrams in your post.

Is this something i can do in my shop or do i need special kubota tools for something?

chris

chris989 · Nov 12, 2016

Wolfman,

Want to make a trip to Boise???? sounds like you have done this before.

I was looking at the parts diagram, The bolts "280" 12mm,, do all of them come out? there is a top row or 3 and a second row of three and then 2 columns of two near the bottom.

Chris

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 12, 2016

The Side cover has 18 bolts around the perimeter
The Shift valve takes 6 bolts
The High Low shift block takes 4 bolts

I have taken mine right down to nothing 3 times, I bought it with a broken transmission, and had to rebuild it after a mechanic had totally messed up the rebuild.

Yea you might be able to talk me into taking a road trip down to Boise!

chris989 · Nov 12, 2016

So i would need to remove the 6 shift valve bolts or all 10?
I have the perimeter bolts removed and the cover will not budge and i do not want to crack it.

I would like to think i can get it done but would it be possible to PM me you phone number or vice versa?

Chris

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 12, 2016

chris989 said:
So i would need to remove the 6 shift valve bolts or all 10?
I have the perimeter bolts removed and the cover will not budge and i do not want to crack it.

I would like to think i can get it done but would it be possible to PM me you phone number or vice versa?

Chris

Sent you an email with my Phone #.

Yes you will need to remove the group of 6 for the shift valve, and the group of 4 for the high, low shift fork block.

Back the 6 out a little give them a tap with a very light hammer to pop the block loose, and do the same for the 4 bolts.
Did you also pull the 2 bolts off of the step bracket?

chris989 · Nov 13, 2016

I got the step bracket bolts, I will loosen the other bolts and give it some taps with a big rubber mallet.

Thanks, for the info, I will contact you when i run into trouble.

Chris

chris989 · Nov 13, 2016

Wolfman,

I got everything apart and the o-rings look good, One odd thing, I took the snap ring and washer off in the early stages and at one point thought to just put is all back together and the groove was no visible to install the c-clip (060) even without the washer (050).

Someone has been in the cable assembly in the past because it had silicone for a gasket. I am wondering if the the never seated the clip and the rotary valve walked back enough for the o-rings to not seat?

chris989 · Nov 13, 2016

update, after a closer inspection,, the c clip is distorted, I tried to install it on the shaft while out of the case and i can easily slip it on an off without snap ring pliers.

Snyda88 · Apr 15, 2017

Wildman, I have a late 80's 2850 that I acquired from a friend and I noticed that the speed change lever housing that bolts to the side of the transmission was leaking pretty good and I had a hard time believing that the the cable should be a "wet" assembly. Looks like those two o-rings you high lighted above are probably bad. Is this something covered in the WSM? Up to this point I made it without one but feeling like it might be time to take the plunge.

P.s.- this things shifts pretty good despite this leak

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