Leaking hydraulic ram on the front loader of a L295DT

ZQ8 Blazer

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Feb 20, 2015
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Western, Ky
I have an 80's Kubota L295DT with a front end loader. One of the lift hydraulic rams is leaking bad and I was wondering if it's cheaper to replace or repair? Also I cannot seem to find a part number on the ram other than 2786 is that it or should I be looking elsewhere?
 

rbargeron

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L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Jul 6, 2015
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western ma
In my experience, the seals in the end part of the ram (the gland) are a common failure point. There's a wiper and an internal gland seal.

I've had very good results taking out the pin and taking the rod and gland out of the barrel, and taking them to a shop that does hydraulic repair. They may not have the exact original wiper and seal, but they have equal or superior replacement parts. Last gland I got resealed was under $50.
 

2458n

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Jun 21, 2010
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covington ohio
Take the cylinder to your local hydraulic shop. If they have been in business for 10 years or more they will fix it correctly and cheaper then you can buy the seals.
 

OLD GAR

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MF210, FORD 8N, BIG TEX CH18,
Aug 3, 2015
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ZWOLLE
Repairing the cylinders on my LA272 wasn't rocket science and most anyone with basic mechanical skills can accomplish it fairly easily. I doubt many rural shops would have the seal that goes inside the piston assembly. it is lipped on one side and has to be put in exactly the same way the old one came out.

I have rebuilt both curl cylinders on the LA 272 . I first bought the two kits from a local Kubota dealer. The cost for the two little kits was almost $90! ! ! More recently I had to repair one lift cylinder. Parts were the same # as the curls so I began researching a less expensive source for the minimal quantity of material in this Kubota kit, I found a source and ordered a kit at 1/3 the price.
Quality was the same or better and the job went as expected. If anyone wants that source I'll be glad to share it

A pin wrench* is a tool used to remove the end plug in the barrel. It isn't supposed to be torqued really high but I had to use a big pipe wrench on one of the plugs. As there is only 1/2 inch of material to grip, it is important to have a good bite to avoid damaging the surface if you have to use something besides a pin wrench.

The holes for the pin wrench are in the end of the plug and may be full of paint and dirt. Be sure to clean the pin holes with a small drill bit exactly the right size to insure adequate depth and fit for the pressure that will be needed to unmount the plug with a pin wrench.

*A "pin wrench" is flat steel tool with two perpendicular pins exactly spaced for the holes in this plugs. Some pin wrenches are adjustable but most are job specific.