R1 Chains

I would go with something like the 1st two photos on R1's.

Duo-Ladder or Duo-Ladder V bar on photos 1 & 2. You can see the issue with the 3rd photo.

(yes the 1st two photos are on R4's but you get the point). They will be very effective on the R1 tires. Third photo - Not So Much.


I would start off with just rear chains and see how it handles first.

Not cheep but if you want traction . . .

http://www.labonville.com/Tire-Chains_c_28.html

chains below: Your Price: $995.00

12-16.5
12.4 * 24
12.4 * 26
12.4 * 28
12.4 * 32
12.4 * 36
13.6 * 24
13.6 * 26
13.6 * 28
13.6 * 36
14-17.5
320/85R-34
355/80-20
15-19.5
270/95R36
290/95R34






http://www.labonville.com/Studded-Farm-Grader-and-Loader-Chains--12S7T_p_130.html

Chuck172, check out www.tirechains.com They are located right there in PA, so you might be able to pick them up and save shipping.

Those prices at tirechain.com look pretty good to me! I'd go for the front tires as well - you'll be looking at a bit over $400 before shipping for the whole works.

I pull a Rhino blade behind my L3200. I have a 6', wish it was a 7'. It has swing, rotate and tilt, so you can swing it over and really push the snow over to the side. I built a gauge wheel for it to keep the blade just a bit over the gravel.

I also built a 7' fixed plow for the FEL. I have gauge wheels on it, that allow the blade to stay an inch or two above the gravel.

Pulling the rear blade does a terrific job. Pushing snow straight ahead does quite well. Pushing and steering - the equivalent of an angled plow blade - does not work so well.

The problem is mostly that the geometry of the FEL is all wrong for plowing snow. The push force is transmitted through the FEL arms high up in the center of the tractor. It tries to pick up the front wheels, so you lose your traction in front, but still have plenty in the rear. When you try to steer you have no traction to do it with. If you pick up the plow blade just a bit you put the weight back on the front tires and do much better, but the push force is still trying to lift the front end. It becomes tolerable until you are really pushing hard.

What you are suggesting, using the curl valve to angle the plow blade, will probably not work well at all. The weight of the blade will always be on the ground, never on the front wheels. The push force will always be trying to pick up the front end, so your steering traction goes out the window.

If you keep the curl function or somehow fix the blade vertically to the FEL arms, and add a 3rd valve for angling the plow you will be able to pick the blade just a bit and get the weight on the front wheels, and you should have pretty good traction.

Chuck, can you post a pic of the 55 gal drum you are using for rear weight? Im interested to see how you did it. Thanks David

My son built his weight square as he had wood and not a barrel. He put a pipe through so he could later put a bar through for the 3 pt hitch. He said it was easier to hook it on by having the bar loose. The top has anchor bolts that he will bolt a plate on to attach the top link. He put a lifting loop in the concrete to be able to move it around easily without having it on the 3PT hitch. He has a L4150DT

Stan

Here are the pics.

Is that a Dodge M37 in the back ground? I have a couple of old Dodge Power Wagons. They are one tough truck.

Yes. That is a M37. And you are right they are tough. Those are my sons trucks.

BAP said:

Chuck172, check out www.tirechains.com They are located right there in PA, so you might be able to pick them up and save shipping.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that link. I have been looking for chains for my l300dt with r1's and if the quality is there I'm sold as that's some very fair pricing.