Common maintenance items on D850 and B7100s?

iangoround

Member

Equipment
B7100HST w/ L1630
May 13, 2019
39
0
6
Rochester, NY
Pictures as your going will help us help you if something doesn't work right.

This is the radiator connections, compare them to yours now and you'll see they are shorter and smaller and at different angles.




My upper connection doesnt look too hard to make. I just need to adapt from the ~1" outlet on the thermostat to the radiator neck. My radiator neck looks like it's been squashed a few times. I'm hoping I can tap a 1" OD pipe in to the neck and solder it in. I see the tanks on this are brass, and I thought about actually moving the inlet and outlet, but that's probably going to be more of a pain than its worth.


In other news, it looks like the dynamo that came with this will fit under the hood. My alternator showed up today too. I'll tackle that and I get the cooling system and clutch sorted.
 

iangoround

Member

Equipment
B7100HST w/ L1630
May 13, 2019
39
0
6
Rochester, NY
It's alive! Got it all buttoned up yesterday. I had to take the radiator back off once to re-solder one of my fittings, and lining up the frame rail holes was a pain in the butt, but other than that it went together easy. Changed all the filters, put on all new fuel hoses, filled fluids and it fires right up. I filled the radiator with water and CLR, ran it around for a while to circulate, dumped, flushed with water again and then filled it with 50/50 antifreeze. After working it a bit I checked the radiator inlet and outlet temps with my IR thermometer and it was 140 up top and around 100 on the bottom.

No leaks, 4wd, PTO, loader, diff lock, everything all works. The only issues left to sort out are the clutch disengagement, the HST pedal doesn't return to center at all, and only the right brake is hooked up and it's out of adjustment. I also need to rig up the kill lever somehow. Either thinking a key activated solenoid or just a simple rod that follows the throttle and trips the kill lever when i pull the throttle back all the way.

Pictures to follow!
 

RCW

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
8,282
3,866
113
Chenango County, NY
Iangoround - been enjoyable following your progress!
Good for you getting her going!
Look forward to seeing your pictures!
Great job!



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North Idaho Wolfman

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,286
4,853
113
Sandpoint, ID
It's alive! Got it all buttoned up yesterday. I had to take the radiator back off once to re-solder one of my fittings, and lining up the frame rail holes was a pain in the butt, but other than that it went together easy. Changed all the filters, put on all new fuel hoses, filled fluids and it fires right up. I filled the radiator with water and CLR, ran it around for a while to circulate, dumped, flushed with water again and then filled it with 50/50 antifreeze. After working it a bit I checked the radiator inlet and outlet temps with my IR thermometer and it was 140 up top and around 100 on the bottom.

No leaks, 4wd, PTO, loader, diff lock, everything all works. The only issues left to sort out are the clutch disengagement, the HST pedal doesn't return to center at all, and only the right brake is hooked up and it's out of adjustment. I also need to rig up the kill lever somehow. Either thinking a key activated solenoid or just a simple rod that follows the throttle and trips the kill lever when i pull the throttle back all the way.

Pictures to follow!
Here is a picture of my solenoid setup, it's tight but it works perfectly.
Pulled in is run
There was a stock solenoid on it mounted much lower, bit I think I couldn't use it due to the radiator placement, but not sure, it's been like that for the last 5 years I think.

It's a three wire solenoid, Ground, Pull in, and Hold.
It's pulled in by the starter and held in buy the switch, you need to a diode on the hold side or it lock on and will not shut off, I think it's because of the way the charging system works. ;)







 

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iangoround

Member

Equipment
B7100HST w/ L1630
May 13, 2019
39
0
6
Rochester, NY
As promised, some shots. I cut the stock fittings off the radiator and shoved some 1"x3/4" copper adapters in there and soldered them in place. Pressure tested the rad to 20psi with no leaks.

You can see the kill lever there. I think the easiest thing to do for me is going to me to make a rod that follows the throttle rod and catches when I pull back all the way. Ive got the parts to try that. If that doesn't work I'll rig up a solenoid.

Also just discovered that the diff lock doesn't actually work, or at least it wasn't when I got stuck in some gravel with a full bucket.

Not sure I'll get time to work on it tomorrow, but I'm on vacation all next week so I'm sure I'll be working on it. Hoping to get the last of the issues sorted out when parts arrive, and maybe throw some work lights on it. And yes, I know I need to put the firewall back in.












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Last edited:

iangoround

Member

Equipment
B7100HST w/ L1630
May 13, 2019
39
0
6
Rochester, NY
Clutch fork came in and didn't solve my problem.

Here's a pic of where the throw out bearing feels like it contacts the pressure plate. That doesn't seem like nearly enough travel, I know it's not since the clutch won't disengage.

Do I need to adjust the pressure plate arms, or is something else up? Pretty sure input the throw out bearing on correctly, as it really only wanted to go on one way. Clutch doesn't make any odd noises.

It looks like there was a window on the right side bellhousing that maybe I could use to access the pressure plate without splitting the tractor, but someone welded a plate there. If that was an access port for the clutch, I'll just cut the patch out. Way easier than splitting the tractor again. Can anyone tell me if that's what this is?



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iangoround

Member

Equipment
B7100HST w/ L1630
May 13, 2019
39
0
6
Rochester, NY
Quick update.

Still haven’t fixed the clutch issue, but everything else is in and working great. I picked up a fdr1660 mower to drag behind this and after putting a new beck belt on and adjusting the throttle stop screw to get me enough engine rpm to hit 540 pto rpm, this thing will mow down thick 2ft tall grass with barely a fuss.

Getting the clutch to disengage is now top priority. I’m going to pull it in to the shop after work tomorrow and make myself an access port in the bellhousing to see what the heck is going on there.


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