L2550 spun a rod bearing
- Thread starter al b
- Start date
I doubt that will clean up. The rod might be able to be resized by a machine shop but the crank looks like it is going to need to come out and be reground as well. 
Have you determined what caused this yet? Lack of oil, extended oil change, plugged filter? How many hours on the tractor?
From looking at the pictures, the bearings spun in the rod so it needs replaced. Grind the crankshaft and new bearings? How do the other bearings look on other rods?
From looking at the pictures, the bearings spun in the rod so it needs replaced. Grind the crankshaft and new bearings? How do the other bearings look on other rods?
I haven't figured out what caused it to spin yet and I haven't taken out the other rods out yet either. It got late so I called it the day, tomorrow I'll continue. I bought it like that from someone who bought it from someone else and then gave up on it. The clock said 6000+ so it is likely going to need a lot. I just hope the crank can be saved.
North Idaho Wolfman
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If it were mine with that many hours I would tear it all down and do a complete rebuild, or just trade it in on a rebuilt complete engine.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Rebuilding it yourself can be done, it just isn't cheap.
Hard parts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOBCAT-642E...399?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7705d257
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Kubota-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2679c028&vxp=mtr
And you will still have to find a replacement crank or get that turned and get over sized rod bearings.
have the block cleaned and milled, and have the head cleaned and milled.
I personally would just go this route and get a warranty with the rebuild.
http://www.dieselenginetrader.com/engines/engine_details.cfm?id=26858
Hard parts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOBCAT-642E...399?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7705d257
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Kubota-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2679c028&vxp=mtr
And you will still have to find a replacement crank or get that turned and get over sized rod bearings.
have the block cleaned and milled, and have the head cleaned and milled.
I personally would just go this route and get a warranty with the rebuild.
http://www.dieselenginetrader.com/engines/engine_details.cfm?id=26858
I had to go to town so I got a late start. Got the front pulley off and bell housing and it started to rain so I covered it up now I'll try again tomorrow. I like to measure the crank before I decide what to do. The pistons in that kit are flat, mine has a recess for the glow plugs. Is that what is called the prechamber? I tried pulling the injectors but they don't want to come out, is there a trick? Also the Injector pump is a bit intimidating to me I have never touch one before. I need to read more about it.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
The kit in the picture is a 4 cylinder too, it's just a stock picture (he says so in the listing).
No it's not a pre chamber, that is a direct injection engine, it injects fuel right into the cylinder, the recess is just for clearance.
The injector are probably just really tight, that's real normal.
Just pull the 4 bolts for the injection pump and keep every thing else intact.
No it's not a pre chamber, that is a direct injection engine, it injects fuel right into the cylinder, the recess is just for clearance.
The injector are probably just really tight, that's real normal.
Just pull the 4 bolts for the injection pump and keep every thing else intact.
With my poor eye sight, the oil galley appears to be plugged with paper, Am I right or what was plugging the oil galleys? Could the filter have ruptured? What brand of filter was on teh engine? Just curious. Sure do enjoy your pics and how you have taken the time to describe what you are doing and seeing. The piston scoring is almost like over heating but not to the point of meltdown. Also could be related to fuel in oil or the wrong viscosity of oil.
Engine block has liners therefore there are no oversize pistons/rings. One just installs new standard size piston,rings & liner. That way no block boring required. I suppose I can't see the "forest for the trees" but the hole I see with paper outlined in red on the crankshaft isn't an oil galley.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
al b,
Looking at the crank I see a lot of bluing from heat.
I would be very careful with a rebuild, check the mains for the slightest heat damage and wear, if there is I wouldn't rebuild it!
In the best case scenario get a new crank and don't bother having that one reworked, may save you a ton of money and aggravation down the line!
Looking at the crank I see a lot of bluing from heat.
I would be very careful with a rebuild, check the mains for the slightest heat damage and wear, if there is I wouldn't rebuild it!
In the best case scenario get a new crank and don't bother having that one reworked, may save you a ton of money and aggravation down the line!
The crank does show some bluing by the rod journals but none by the mains. Most on #3 then #1 and the least on #2. I measured them and they are all right on except the bad one. What I don't understand is all three journals have that same hole plugged up. At first I thought it was debris but now looks like it was put there.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
The holes are plugged because they're not oil gallies. Oil gallies have to have openings at ONLY the rod & main brg journals.There is no way to maintain oil pressure if they were open into the wide open spaces.
I tried to take better pictures of the plugged holes but I can't get them to focus. I was studying the oil holes and I think those holes were drilled to connect the rod journal with a main journal and then plugged. Three sets of rod journal connected to the main in front. the rear main has no hole. Does the oil come under pressure though the block to the main then to the rod?
Rear main should have an oil supply hole. Rod area on crankshaft is supplied with oil via main brg holes in block
Got it, come though the block to the mains then to the rods. Rear has a supply hole in the block but no hole in the crank because it has nothing to feed to.