Fuel Leak B7100

Sideofabarn · Mar 23, 2017

Please excuse me if I use the wrong terminology-still learning about diesel engines!

I noticed a fuel leak when I was bringing in my B7100 the other day. I dried off the area and I did not find any additional moisture. This morning I noticed a decent amount of fuel and I'm pretty sure I know where it's coming from.

In the attached pic I'm pointing to the wet area on top of the fuel pump with a pen (notice the shiny stuff-that's fuel). The area was dry when I turned the tractor off so I think fuel drained down the fuel lines the last 1.5 days. I tried to tighten the injector lines but they were all tight already.

Any advice on how to attack this? Is this a common issue?

85Hokie · Mar 23, 2017

Sideofabarn said:
Please excuse me if I use the wrong terminology-still learning about diesel engines!

I noticed a fuel leak when I was bringing in my B7100 the other day. I dried off the area and I did not find any additional moisture. This morning I noticed a decent amount of fuel and I'm pretty sure I know where it's coming from.

In the attached pic I'm pointing to the wet area on top of the fuel pump with a pen (notice the shiny stuff-that's fuel). The area was dry when I turned the tractor off so I think fuel drained down the fuel lines the last 1.5 days. I tried to tighten the injector lines but they were all tight already.

Any advice on how to attack this? Is this a common issue?

Ok, that is not coming from the tank.....so to speak.
It is coming from the "O" ring that lies under that nut, rather ease fix -and not costly.

There have been several posts on the subject of the same machine

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16851

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28209

Sideofabarn · Mar 24, 2017

85 Hokie-thanks for the info and the references. I'll dig into the machine tonight.

85Hokie · Mar 24, 2017

Sideofabarn said:
85 Hokie-thanks for the info and the references. I'll dig into the machine tonight.

as others have said .....buy LOTS of O rings......cause chances are, if'n one goes bad, another is soon to follow!

Sideofabarn · Mar 27, 2017

85Hokie,

I'm getting ready to order the parts. I want to order #6 and #8 both from the attached pic-correct?

#8 is called "O-ring"-I'm assuming it's a rubber o-ring.

#6 is called a "gasket"-I'm assuming it's a copper crush gasket?

85Hokie · Mar 27, 2017

Sideofabarn said:
85Hokie,

I'm getting ready to order the parts. I want to order #6 and #8 both from the attached pic-correct?

#8 is called "O-ring"-I'm assuming it's a rubber o-ring.

#6 is called a "gasket"-I'm assuming it's a copper crush gasket?

yes on both, I did not replace the "gaskets" the crush washers on mine.....but IF I was to order anything, I would get all, since the total shipping is more than the parts alone!

Does your machine have a decomp knob? IF so this will help bleed everything when you are finished!

Ps - be careful when removing part above part #7 (the nut holding the flared tube) Hold #7 firm then remove the nut.

And report back when you get a chance to.

Sideofabarn · Mar 28, 2017

85Hokie, thanks for the info. I think only one of my injector lines are leaking but I'm going to change the o-ring and crush washer on all three. The injector line to the back of the tractor is the one leaking and it will be easier to get to if I remove the other two anyways. I should get the parts tomorrow.

And yes, I do have a decomp but the control line to the dash was removed before I got the tractor. I can get the lever on the valve cover to move if I bang on it with a large screwdriver but it's pretty frozen. I'm still trying to understand how it works-I'm guessing it holds open the valves preventing compression.

Makes sense that the decomp will make bleeding the lines easier-I do understand that.

85Hokie · Mar 28, 2017

Sideofabarn said:
85Hokie, thanks for the info. I think only one of my injector lines are leaking but I'm going to change the o-ring and crush washer on all three. The injector line to the back of the tractor is the one leaking and it will be easier to get to if I remove the other two anyways. I should get the parts tomorrow.

And yes, I do have a decomp but the control line to the dash was removed before I got the tractor. I can get the lever on the valve cover to move if I bang on it with a large screwdriver but it's pretty frozen. I'm still trying to understand how it works-I'm guessing it holds open the valves preventing compression.

Makes sense that the decomp will make bleeding the lines easier-I do understand that.

You are correct on all accounts!!!

the middle and left nuts are by far the hardest -

ON mine it was the middle one, and it was a royal PITA - I did not want to take the outside one off first......but then again a hard head makes a soft a$$!!!!

I would not bang on it - the decomp lever on the cover - I would soak the hell out of it and then wiggle and more wiggle!

AS you said - the decomp allows for a fast spin on low battery and or cold days, get the engine turning fast, close the valves and it should help a lot.
When you get to bleeding, WOT throttle, open the decomp, open each tube at the injector, no air and all fuel.......you will be fine! I would not kick the starter more than about 15 seconds per round, once might be enough.

D2Cat · Mar 28, 2017

If you're ordering parts, you can get the decompression cable for like $20 and it includes the housing, and knob.

Like 85Hokie said, just soak the point the pivot goes into the valve cover and work it back and forth and soon it will free up.

Sideofabarn · Mar 30, 2017

Success!

I put in three new o-rings and copper washers and no more leak. I also soaked the decomp linkage on the block with PB Blaster and it loosened right up. I also ordered the linkage from my dealer. The o-rings looked fine but they were very hard.

I have two recommendations for anyone changing these o-rings:

1) Loosen up the fuel lines from the pump to the block on both sides. This lets you move the lines to work on the other lines.

2) Change the o-rings on all three units even if only one is leaking. It's much easier to reach the middle and rear unit when the prior units are removed.

Only 30 mins to change all three units.

Sideofabarn · Mar 30, 2017

...and thanks for the advice 85 Hokie and D2Cat!

85Hokie · Mar 30, 2017

" It's much easier to reach the middle and rear unit when the prior units are removed "

O boy - aint that the truth!!!!

Glad you got her leak free!!!

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