I know it's gray market and there's a forum for that but i know it's basically a 225 too. Just picked up a seemingly neglected l2000 for under a grand. Seller started it with a spare battery and jumper cables. Fired up, sounded ok to me, he said he didn't want to run it long due to a coolant leak (which I have yet to find...). Deal done, now it's in my driveway. Tried the same procedure today and finally got it to bust off. It wanted to bog down and it took full throttle to keep it going until it finally sounded awake. I let it idle at maybe a fast idle for about 3-4 minutes before it bogged down, puffed some white smoke and died. I cracked the banjo at the injector pump and clean fuel comes out. It has good flow coming through the filter as well. Anything I could check that should be obvious? This is my first kubota and fear some sort of injector pump issue the seller may have been aware of, but then I tend to be a bit pessimistic. Thanks in advance!
L2000/225 won't stay running
- Thread starter Whitson Metalworks
- Start date
Welcome aboard! First thought is head gasket gave up the ghost with the report of engine quit, and white smoke. But don't panic, if that's the problem you won't have trouble with that repair.
Might check for water in your oil, or take the radiator cap off to see what you find there. Is it low? If you get it running again leave the cap off and look for bubbles.
What you could do is remove the glow plugs and spin the engine over and make sure there is no water in the cylinders. You could also at that time check the engine compression. You can get a compression testing kit the the fitting you need at Harbor Freight for like $30. It's not a fancy use it every day tool, but it will give you a reading.
Might check for water in your oil, or take the radiator cap off to see what you find there. Is it low? If you get it running again leave the cap off and look for bubbles.
What you could do is remove the glow plugs and spin the engine over and make sure there is no water in the cylinders. You could also at that time check the engine compression. You can get a compression testing kit the the fitting you need at Harbor Freight for like $30. It's not a fancy use it every day tool, but it will give you a reading.
Good advice. The white smoke doesn't look like water smoke (haha), it's like a thick, heavy smoke. Closest I've seen was starting a gm 6.5 with some ATF, very smoky. Only saw said smoke when cranking it over and when it died, while running there's no smoke, just a black puff as it lights off.
The oil is as black as paint, likely way overdue for a change, and the coolant had no sheen yesterday or today and was visible a couple inches down from the rim, no idea if that's low or not. The fins were all submerged at least.
I'll see if I can get my compression tester attached and give it a shot.
The oil is as black as paint, likely way overdue for a change, and the coolant had no sheen yesterday or today and was visible a couple inches down from the rim, no idea if that's low or not. The fins were all submerged at least.
I'll see if I can get my compression tester attached and give it a shot.
Maybe after you describe the smoke, you have a fuel problem. Black oil is very normal. Water/antifreeze should cover the top of the fins, no more or it will puke it out.
Whatever the ailment DO NOT use any starting fluid. With a high compression diesel engine you can cause way too much damage trying to shortcut a problem.
How old is the fuel? How long has the tractor been setting?
Your in a warm climate so glow plugs are not as critical as in other areas, but is that system working? I'm not positive on your tractor, but usually on the older tractors you turn the same switch you turn to start the engine....before attempting to start... turn that switch counter-clockwise for 20 seconds or so. Do you have a chrome piece on the left side of you dash that looks like it has a 1/4" hole in it? If so, that is the glow plug indicator. With the key to the left it will, or should, eventually glow a dull then a bright orange. It's a filament that tells you when the glow plugs are hot. When it's hot the GP's are hot. Turn the key clockwise and the engine should start right off. It will have less smoke then before.
Whatever the ailment DO NOT use any starting fluid. With a high compression diesel engine you can cause way too much damage trying to shortcut a problem.
How old is the fuel? How long has the tractor been setting?
Your in a warm climate so glow plugs are not as critical as in other areas, but is that system working? I'm not positive on your tractor, but usually on the older tractors you turn the same switch you turn to start the engine....before attempting to start... turn that switch counter-clockwise for 20 seconds or so. Do you have a chrome piece on the left side of you dash that looks like it has a 1/4" hole in it? If so, that is the glow plug indicator. With the key to the left it will, or should, eventually glow a dull then a bright orange. It's a filament that tells you when the glow plugs are hot. When it's hot the GP's are hot. Turn the key clockwise and the engine should start right off. It will have less smoke then before.
Stopped by napa and got new oil, fuel and air filters and some new oil for heck of it. As soon as I pulled the old filter I figured out why it konked out, water everywhere... drained several ounces out of the tank before it ran clear, then drained some more. Pulled the line from filter to pump and drained it, cracked the drain nut thing on the pump and watery fuel came out of there too. Tried to pull the lines but I don't have the tools to get to the center line nuts. Put it back together and spun it over with the compression release open for a while. It took forever to light off but when it did it ran fine. Tried to bog down again after 3 minutes or so but I manged to keep it running. Shut it down and started and it did fine again.
BUT!!! I noticed the wire coming from the oil sending unit was disconnected/cut a few inches out. Saw the other end nearby like they'd been twisted together at some point, connected them and the charge light came on..???? I checked the wiring and the blue wire goes to the charge light, so I reversed it to the oil light and the charge light still comes on... but only when the oil sender wire is connected. Tried testing the sensor with my meter on the bench and got continuity pushing on the plunger and not, so im sure I did that wrong. Guess I'll be digging into the oil pressure question tomorrow.
BUT!!! I noticed the wire coming from the oil sending unit was disconnected/cut a few inches out. Saw the other end nearby like they'd been twisted together at some point, connected them and the charge light came on..???? I checked the wiring and the blue wire goes to the charge light, so I reversed it to the oil light and the charge light still comes on... but only when the oil sender wire is connected. Tried testing the sensor with my meter on the bench and got continuity pushing on the plunger and not, so im sure I did that wrong. Guess I'll be digging into the oil pressure question tomorrow.
Well, managed to get the sender all rigged up and tested with an air hose, it works, so that's not good.
Maybe you ought to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge to get an accurate reading?
Sounds like your getting some of the bugs worked out! Water in fuel in, for sure, a big NO NO.
Sounds like your getting some of the bugs worked out! Water in fuel in, for sure, a big NO NO.
Hooked a manual gauge up and fired it up (fired up great cor the first time so far) and yippee, 60psi. Let it run and it fell to 50 before I turned it off, I'm very relieved. So, the charge light is correct, there is zero charge, guess I'll start on that next....or...the clutch. Ya, it's frozen lol
Whitson, good news...at least you have good oil pressure! For the stuck clutch. if the tractor has set for a long time with the clutch face against the flywheel it eventually bonds together.
One method to free a clutch stuck to the flywheel is to put an implement on the back of the tractor and work the tractor hard. Like a plow or a disc or a front blade pushing some material. The clutch will usually begin working correctly, OR the face of the clutch gets destroyed!!
Either way you need to get it to work and if it doesn't do it that way you will need to separate the tractor and replace the clutch.
For the electrical system, keep a battery maintainer on the battery until you have it figured out.
One method to free a clutch stuck to the flywheel is to put an implement on the back of the tractor and work the tractor hard. Like a plow or a disc or a front blade pushing some material. The clutch will usually begin working correctly, OR the face of the clutch gets destroyed!!
Either way you need to get it to work and if it doesn't do it that way you will need to separate the tractor and replace the clutch.
For the electrical system, keep a battery maintainer on the battery until you have it figured out.
Don't own any implements yet haha. I read about some ways to free it by running it on jacks and slamming the brakes while holding the clutch. If that doesn't work I can't imagine splitting the tractor would be too hard. Here's a picture of what I'm working with, now you understand the name I gave it.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I wouldn't do that!
That would be a great way to tear up the brakes and the internals of the tractor!
Roger that. It was on this forum though haha. I might just wait till I can drive it and try to use low range, hope for the best
Hey, I like your work shop....and those rice tires!
Don't you have a beach nearby. Get you a one bottom plow (so you can work up a garden later) and go down to the beach and sink that thing in to cause some resistance!
Don't you have a beach nearby. Get you a one bottom plow (so you can work up a garden later) and go down to the beach and sink that thing in to cause some resistance!
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coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
ahhhh.... well that answers it all on why your having problems..... You live in Milton!!
Spent many weekends there. in the 80's Family had a place there in the giant metropolis of Milton. My sis was even married there.
Had a neighbor a few years ago, a renter, I despised him for working on tractors in the front YARD. Now here I am with this heap on the trailer. As soon as I get the 3 bad tires replaced I'll see about getting it out of eyesight for a while haha.
Last night I rehabbed the tach, it was so sun beat you couldnt see through it. Managed to disassemble it and cut a new lens from one of my welding hood screen protectors, looks great! Some silicone lube and it shouod be just fine. So many odds and ends on such a small tractor.
Last night I rehabbed the tach, it was so sun beat you couldnt see through it. Managed to disassemble it and cut a new lens from one of my welding hood screen protectors, looks great! Some silicone lube and it shouod be just fine. So many odds and ends on such a small tractor.
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