Looking for onsite assistance in San Diego, CA (paid)

Russell King · May 20, 2015

Don't crank too long at one time or you starter will fail.

Also there should be a DECOMPRESSION knob on the dash. Probably a pull knob (like an old choke cable). Pulling out changes the valve setting so there is no compression. Makes the engine spin over fairly easily - thus RPM is high. Push knob in and compression is applied, engine can then start (if it will). I suggest you look that over to ensure it is in place or not. They have been know to stick/break/be monkeyed with until they don't work...

At the engine end of the cable is a lever you may be able to work by hand (I am just guessing - mine worked well when I got the tractor so I have never messed with the engine end yet).

All of this is easier sitting in the seat, so I would suggest you spend some time on rigging some of the electrical system back together.

Tooljunkie · May 21, 2015

That would definetly be someting to check, if decomp lever is not returning fully to close,vales could be held partially open.

Drewdaman · May 21, 2015

Thanks for all the replies and good suggestions, and I haven't had a chance to pull & test the nozzles as Wolfman suggested, however I did want to respond to the comments about decompression levers as it now appears to me that either of the following two (2) scenarios may be possible here.

1. A previous owner has removed most or all of the decompression system, from the dash knob and cable to the bracket / spring / linkage at the engine; from memory, none of those parts are on this tractor. And I can't remember seeing the end of the decompression shaft poking out of the front of head, either, so I'll have to check that next.

OR

2. This particular engine does not have a decompression system - which would mean it's not a D1301-A, as shown on the tractor's nameplate, because I *now* clearly see that the Illustrated Parts List shows all these parts. That seems unlikely to me, but maybe possible?

Unfortunately, I can't inspect the engine right now as I'm 40 miles away and headed to work next, but you can bet I'll be out there ASAP!

And I'll take pictures of the engine and provide another update tonight - thanks guys!!

Drew

D2Cat · May 21, 2015

Drew, the lever the decompression cable would connect to is coming out of the front of the valve cover. It it's there, it will have a spring pulling it back, and you should be able to move the lever forward with you fingers and when released return to the original position.

Drewdaman · May 21, 2015

Okay, I checked and it appears to be Scenario 1 - someone removed everything related to the decompression system on the engine, please see the pic attached, along with a picture of the Illustrated Parts Manual.

So, can anyone confirm that this situation will result in a lack of compression; that is, the engine thinks the decompression lever is in the open position?

Thanks in advance,
Drew

Tooljunkie · May 21, 2015

If it was me standing in your boots, i would be lifting valve cover off and checking valve clearance. And the presence or lack of decompression parts.

D2Cat · May 21, 2015

There are 3 covers over on the valve cover side by the injectors. The screws look like they are missing. Those covers are where you make the adjustments needed for the compression release.

Maybe that engine didn't have compression release, but I think it was the much later models that didn't have compression release.

Does the front of the valve cover actually have a hole there? It should have an "O" ring in a groove to seal the oil in.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 21, 2015

That engine did not come with a decompression setup.
Two things tell you that, no hole for the shaft (it's cast close) and no holes for the adjustment (again cast closed).
Even if it had the decompression rod removed it wouldn't decompress the motor with it missing, the rod and linkage pushes the valves open therefore with it missing the valves would just work normally.

Looking at your picture, does that have new injectors?
And if so are they true Kubota Injectors or aftermarket ones?
I ask because there was quite a few complaints and problems with the aftermarket injectors.

Lil Foot · May 21, 2015

Agree with NIW, but I would still check valve clearances- simple to do, and it may eliminate one more possibility/variable.

Drewdaman · May 21, 2015

D2Cat said:
There are 3 covers over on the valve cover side by the injectors. The screws look like they are missing. Those covers are where you make the adjustments needed for the compression release.

Maybe that engine didn't have compression release, but I think it was the much later models that didn't have compression release.

Does the front of the valve cover actually have a hole there? It should have an "O" ring in a groove to seal the oil in.

Responding to your comments in order:

- Yes, I see where the parts diagram shows the covers and gasket and screws - I've noted "all missing" - however, it doesn't appear that those parts were ever installed on this particular unit, please see the close up pic I uploaded.

- My unit is number 10432, if that helps, and also, you can see from the pic of the dashboard, that the hole for the decompression cable / knob is there. Would Kubota have built a tractor without decompression levers but still sold it with the dash hole?

- Now that I have had more time to look at my photos, I'm more confused, because the one good picture that I was able to get of the "hole" in the cylinder appears to actually be a "recess", which is painted rather than raw metal as I expected - so it appears this unit had no decompression system?!

North Idaho Wolfman · May 21, 2015

Yes they kept the same dash.
It probably had a blank plug just like the 2 on the right side.

Drewdaman · May 21, 2015

Thanks, Wolfman, and somehow I didn't see your earlier reply, so thanks for confirming no decompression on this unit. And yes, those are Kubota nozzles, bought from Messicks.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 21, 2015

And I agree with everyone pull the valve cover and check the valves.
Once you get a compression test that will answer a lot and give some direction to what to do next.

Drewdaman · May 22, 2015

Okay, I'll pull the valve cover, though I'm not sure what I'll be looking for regarding "valve clearance" (newb here).

And to revisit your earlier suggestion to test the spray pattern of the nozzles/injectors, I actually have 2 more new nozzles (long story), should I just put them in and try them? Are you thinking I've fouled the nozzles at this point?

D2Cat · May 22, 2015

Based on this page it's .009 cold. And I'd say intake and exhaust are the same.

http://johnsoncitykubota.com/Kubota Engine Specifications/Kubota Engine Specifications L295.html

North Idaho Wolfman · May 22, 2015

With it having new injectors I worry that you have an injection pump problem, but yes pulling the lines and installing the injection pumps remotely will give you a better indication what's happening and what's not.

D2Cat · May 22, 2015

Drew, if you do need an injection pump check here first. You may contact them and see if they can test your, and if so how much to repair.

http://oregonfuelinjection.com/

I got a new, no core required, IP for my L305 for $425 delivered to my door. It's not a big process to change out. Critical thing is to be sure to not destroy or loose the thin shims under your existing IP. They are required for correct timing.

Drewdaman · May 23, 2015

Thanks a lot, guys, for all the comments and suggestions, and as an update, it's been sprinkling here for the last 2 days (bring it on, we need the rain!) however the tractor is outside so I haven't been able to do any work yesterday or today.

My next step is to test the injectors and injector pump with cardboard outside the engine, and I'll report back here with the results, hopefully sometime tomorrow.

Enjoy the holiday weekend

Drew

Drewdaman · May 25, 2015

Ok, I'm super pleased to report that the tractor finally started!!!

It appears that the valve clearance was the culprit, as we had to adjust 4 out of the 6 (all were greater than .009), and afterward it started up with relatively little difficulty - as you can imagine, I'm very stoked!

Now, the next challenge is to figure out why it's puking so much oil / fluid out the blow-by tube, as we ran it for about 20 minutes and it discharged about half a pint of liquid or so - any thoughts on that?

Thanks again,
Drew

North Idaho Wolfman · May 25, 2015

Drewdaman said:
Now, the next challenge is to figure out why it's puking so much oil / fluid out the blow-by tube, as we ran it for about 20 minutes and it discharged about half a pint of liquid or so - any thoughts on that?

Well sadly that is a simple answer, it's going to need re-ringed, and if already sleeved, it will need re-sleeved.

The blow-by is because of wear and bad rings.

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