l345dt engine swap question

kdpearson · May 7, 2015

I hiajacked another post but thought I'd start my own.
I am swapping a v1702 in place of my v1501 on an l345dt. I have the oil pan, mounting plate, starter and flywheel all swapped over and it fits nicely. I went to swap the hydraulic pump and found that my industrial v1702 does not have the splined tailshaft on the fuel injection pump that I need to drive the hydraulics. I've looked up part numbers for the cam on the l345dt and on the l355 (has a v1702) and the cams are different part numbers.

Heres my question. Any suggestions on where to source the proper fuel injection cam to drive my hydraulics?

As you all know, without hydraulics I was better off driving the tired v1501.

Thanks,
Ken

North Idaho Wolfman · May 7, 2015

kdpearson said:
I hiajacked another post but thought I'd start my own.
I am swapping a v1702 in place of my v1501 on an l345dt. I have the oil pan, mounting plate, starter and flywheel all swapped over and it fits nicely. I went to swap the hydraulic pump and found that my industrial v1702 does not have the splined tailshaft on the fuel injection pump that I need to drive the hydraulics. I've looked up part numbers for the cam on the l345dt and on the l355 (has a v1702) and the cams are different part numbers.

Heres my question. Any suggestions on where to source the proper fuel injection cam to drive my hydraulics?

As you all know, without hydraulics I was better off driving the tired v1501.

Thanks,
Ken

Ok I think you have something wrong.
L345 came with a V1501DA
L355 Came with a V1701A
L2850 came with a V1702DI-A
There is a huge difference between those three engines.
If you do have a V1702DI-A you will need to change the hydraulic pump to a pump off of a L2850 as you will not be able to just change the cams to get it to work.

kdpearson · May 7, 2015

Thanks for the clarification. I was going by the chart (attached) that showed the l355 with a v1702

North Idaho Wolfman · May 7, 2015

I'm sorry you are right, it's a V1702A in a L355
Now that leads to the next point that they have the same hydraulic pump so they should have the same cam setup.
I now wonder if you have a newer V1702DI-A motor or some other variant.
Pictures of the hydraulic drive are needed now.
Also take a picture of a fuel injector, that might help with the identity of the motor.

kdpearson · May 7, 2015

Here are a couple pics. The stamp on the block says the replacement engine is a v1702-84983.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 8, 2015

It is the older V1702 not the L2850 V1702DI-A, I just don't know if it's a the A version or not.
On your V1501 did you pull off the pump multiplier when you pulled the hydraulic pump?
Do you still have old motor there?
If you do, take a picture of it's output from the fuel cam on that motor.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 8, 2015

Having done a little more digging, it doesn't look like that shaft was setup to drive a pump.
On yours there should be a collar and a gear and an E clip that holds the gear to the shaft.
Besides that shaft not having splines it also has no slot for the E clip to go on it.
It should be possible to get the fuel shaft and replace it with the right one.
but it's not a cheap part.

kdpearson · May 8, 2015

Wolfman,

You are correct. The old motor has a splined shaft and an extra gear held on by an e clip. The v1702 has a smooth shaft that is a lot shorter than the splined shaft on the v1501.

I do still have the old motor. I will get a picture this morning.

Thanks for talking this through with me,
Ken

kdpearson · May 8, 2015

This morning I talked to a guy at West Kentucky Tractor and he has run into this before. He has the shaft I need on the shelf so I gave him my Visa numbers and the shaft is on the way to Oregon. I will keep you posted.

kdpearson · May 8, 2015

How can i find out if my v1702 is an A version? Is there some sort of ID that I can look for?
Ken

North Idaho Wolfman · May 8, 2015

I really don't know of a way to tell the versions of the different sub models.

kdpearson · May 9, 2015

I was just curious. Thanks for all of your help.

kdpearson · May 12, 2015

I've found another difference between the v1501 and the v1702. On my v1501 the engine stop is accomplished by just racking the injector pump down with the one throttle lever. On the v1702 there is a separate shut down lever. My replacement engine did not come with the lever so imagine my surprise when I had to choke the engine off (when doing a test run) rather than it shutting down with the throttle arm. So back to the tractor wrecking yard.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 12, 2015

I ran into that same issue when I switch from an old D750 to a new D950.
If you want you can change it over to a key shut off also, some like that some don't.
If you need help with the parts or wiring for that option just let me know.

kdpearson · May 12, 2015

I hadn't thought of a key shutoff. I would be interested.

Ken

kdpearson · May 16, 2015

My new cam arrived and I put it in today. The splined tailshaft was slightly different than the v1501. It was a little shorter. So I flipped the gear that is held on by the e-clip around and cut a new shim. It now engages with the hydraulic pump drive offset. Now I will have hydraulics on my new engine! Now I need my stop lever to arrive.

kdpearson · May 17, 2015

I spent the day installing the engine. The engine is now all bolted up. Next on the list is mounting the front end.

D2Cat · May 18, 2015

Ken, do you have any picture of your project? I enjoy learning from another's ingenuity. Thanks.

kdpearson · May 18, 2015

I do have some pictures but did not take any of the gear modification. Unfortunately I get in a zone and forget to grab my camera...

kdpearson · May 26, 2015

I'm getting closer to completing this swap. I received the engine stop lever and mounted it (still need to fab a connection so I can reach it from the seat). I had to notch the front axle mount housing to clear the front timing gear cover. (I will add pics tonight). Also had to drill and tap two M10x1.25 holes on the right front of the block (opposite side of the engine from the injector pump) for the housing. The block was cast to accept the holes but the top one ran into another mounting hole drilled and tapped from the side so it only has about an inch of thread bite to it.

I filled with coolant and found a couple extra bolt holes that extended into the cooling jacket (found by the coolant leaking out <grin>) so I filled them with bolts. Might get to mount the FEL tonight!

l345dt engine swap question

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