Adding Snow Plow- Switching Hydraulic Line Question?

LDowney · Dec 13, 2016

Hey guys. I'm wanting to add a 7 ft. snow plow (pictured below) with the quick attach mount to my L4060 tractor. The plow has two hydraulic cylinders with two quick connect hose ends on it. What I'm wanting to do is connect the snow plow and set my curl angle of the blade. Then disconnect the two curl angle hydraulic lines. Connect with extension hoses, the two lines coming from the snow plow. This way I can still raise and lower my plow and also using the side to side motion of my stick, to turn the snow plow from left to right.

I called my local Kubota dealer today and they said that wouldn't work. I would need to add a $1,100 3rd function system instead. As little of snow that we get here in NC, I'm not wanting to invest $1,500 for the plow and another $1,100 for the 3rd function.

Is anyone out there, other than my buddy who told me this works just fine on his Kubota M series tractor, doing this method? Seems like it would work just fine to me. Suggestions?

scdeerslayer · Dec 14, 2016

You want to disconnect the curl/dump circuit of your loader and use that to control the blade's angle? If your valve has the "quick dump" that might be an issue, I don't think that is included in the valves for the M series. You can get a 3rd function kit for around $750 I think and install it yourself to save the labor cost. In the long run you'll probably be happier with the 3rd function, and it gives you the ability to add many useful attachment up front.

Another option would be if you have rear remotes to run the hoses all the way to them to control the blade's angle.

LDowney · Dec 14, 2016

scdeerslayer said:
You want to disconnect the curl/dump circuit of your loader and use that to control the blade's angle? If your valve has the "quick dump" that might be an issue, I don't think that is included in the valves for the M series. You can get a 3rd function kit for around $750 I think and install it yourself to save the labor cost. In the long run you'll probably be happier with the 3rd function, and it gives you the ability to add many useful attachment up front.

Another option would be if you have rear remotes to run the hoses all the way to them to control the blade's angle.

Yeah, I don't have rear remotes. The L grand series has the 4 stage valve system. Slight push is regen and full push to left or right gives you power dump which will operate a single action hydr cylinder. Actually, the hydraulic cylinders that come on this plow are dual action cylinders. Hoses are on both ends of the cylinders just as the one already on the loader now.

I called another Kubota dealership and spoke to someone in service. He said switching those hoses out would not be a problem. It would give the plow left and right motion which is what I want. I can set the curl of the plow first and then switch the hoses out. I will still be able to raise and lower the bucket.

I just hate to spend nearly a grand on 3rd function or diverters valves for as little of snow that we get here in NC. Just doesn't make sense. I don't own a grapple or have any plans on buying one so the snow plow would be my only front end function.

Was just hoping there were others on here that have a front end snow plow and are running the hoses with this method.

North Idaho Wolfman · Dec 14, 2016

EDIT: With 2 way cylinders on the blade tilt, it should work fine and dandy!

LDowney · Dec 14, 2016

North Idaho Wolfman said:
Bite the bullet if you want a blade, Add a third function.
Because no it won't work with your loader valve unless you change the 2 cylinders on it to 2 way cylinders.
It's an issue with one way cylinders and the way the loader valve works, it won't turn.

The cylinders on the plow I'm buying are two way cylinders. Exactly like the cylinders on my front end loader. See pic below. I just don't see spending an extra $1,100 on installing a 3rd function when I don't have to.

North Idaho Wolfman said:
EDIT: With 2 way cylinders on the blade tilt, it should work fine and dandy!

North Idaho Wolfman · Dec 14, 2016

LDowney said:
The cylinders on the plow I'm buying are two way cylinders. Exactly like the cylinders on my front end loader. See pic below. I just don't see spending an extra $1,100 on installing a 3rd function when I don't have to.

Yep I changed my answer when I read what you posted, I load too many posts then start replying and you were on the end of the list, so what I was answering to was your original post!

So yes Dual action cylinders change the game completely!

scdeerslayer · Dec 15, 2016

It's got 2 double acting cylinders to control blade angle? How does that work? Are they plumbed in series?

North Idaho Wolfman · Dec 15, 2016

scdeerslayer said:
It's got 2 double acting cylinders to control blade angle? How does that work? Are they plumbed in series?

They would be connected in reverse parallel, one pulls the other pushes, and vice versa.

LDowney · Dec 15, 2016

North Idaho Wolfman said:
They would be connected in reverse parallel, one pulls the other pushes, and vice versa.

Correct. Thank you. I included a picture below to better explain.

North Idaho Wolfman · Dec 15, 2016

One thing to note:
If you did a diverter valve 3rd function, which is way cheaper than a standard 3rd function, you would still retain the ability to tilt the blade to the proper angle (horizontally) to get the right clearance and dig out of the blade.

Also not to be Captain buzz kill:
But that Blade is not going to be a good snow blade, it doesn't have skid shoes on it and without being able to curl the blade it's going to be super unmanageable. That's a dozer blade. and without being able to curl it your going to run into all sorts of headache's.

Boatman · Dec 15, 2016

I have an old Fisher truck plow and made a plate to attach to FEL in place of the bucket. It was set up with the FEL in full curl and uses the curl function of the joystick for plow angle. It has worked great for years.

As mentioned already, without skids that plow is going to really dig in. I have skids on mine and the first couple uses before the ground freezes can still have the plow digging ruts.

scdeerslayer · Dec 16, 2016

North Idaho Wolfman said:
They would be connected in reverse parallel, one pulls the other pushes, and vice versa.

Ok, I get it now. For some reason I was thinking that the difference in volume between the rod side of one and the piston side of the other would cause issues if plumbed that way.

LDowney · Dec 21, 2016

Boatman said:
I have an old Fisher truck plow and made a plate to attach to FEL in place of the bucket. It was set up with the FEL in full curl and uses the curl function of the joystick for plow angle. It has worked great for years.

As mentioned already, without skids that plow is going to really dig in. I have skids on mine and the first couple uses before the ground freezes can still have the plow digging ruts.

My buddies that have used these type plows and truck plows all tell me the first thing they do is remove the skids. They said they are worthless unless your plowing a gravel road (which I don't plan to).

I also watched a youtube video with Paul Short. He has a ton of plowing experience. Check out this link below. Fast forward it to 9 min and 15 seconds. He talks about how to place the plow and using float mode.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdHzkzu4cPY&t=520s

LDowney · Dec 21, 2016

North Idaho Wolfman said:
One thing to note:
If you did a diverter valve 3rd function, which is way cheaper than a standard 3rd function, you would still retain the ability to tilt the blade to the proper angle (horizontally) to get the right clearance and dig out of the blade.

Also not to be Captain buzz kill:
But that Blade is not going to be a good snow blade, it doesn't have skid shoes on it and without being able to curl the blade it's going to be super unmanageable. That's a dozer blade. and without being able to curl it your going to run into all sorts of headache's.

My buddies that have used these type plows and truck plows all tell me the first thing they do is remove the skids. They said they are worthless unless your plowing a gravel road (which I don't plan to).

I also watched a youtube video with Paul Short. He has a ton of plowing experience. Check out this link below. Fast forward it to 9 min and 15 seconds. He talks about how to place the plow and using float mode.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdHzkzu4cPY&t=520s

BAP · Dec 21, 2016

North Idaho Wolfman said:
One thing to note:
If you did a diverter valve 3rd function, which is way cheaper than a standard 3rd function, you would still retain the ability to tilt the blade to the proper angle (horizontally) to get the right clearance and dig out of the blade.

Also not to be Captain buzz kill:
But that Blade is not going to be a good snow blade, it doesn't have skid shoes on it and without being able to curl the blade it's going to be super unmanageable. That's a dozer blade. and without being able to curl it your going to run into all sorts of headache's.

That is not a dozer blade. Dozer blades don't have spring trips on them. However, I would doubt that the ground is frozen hard enough in NC to run a plow without skid shoes to keep from ripping up the dirt.

LDowney · Dec 21, 2016

BAP said:
That is not a dozer blade. Dozer blades don't have spring trips on them. However, I would doubt that the ground is frozen hard enough in NC to run a plow without skid shoes to keep from ripping up the dirt.

Very true and you are correct. Our ground is rarely that frozen here in NC. When I've plowed in the past using ATV's and my RZR, I only used the skid shoes when I plowed gravel roads. Do you guys use skid shoes on pavement? Seems like it would eat your skid shoes up quickly. Plus, I've always had more success with the plow directly on the road surface.

BAP · Dec 21, 2016

With pavement you shouldn't need shoes. The only time it might be necessary on pavement would be if the pavement was in poor shape and broken up. Then you might want them to keep from catching an edge of the pavement and ripping it up.

LDowney · Dec 30, 2016

UPDATE- Hey guys. Decided to go the diverter router for my snow plow. Cost me $172 after shipping and looks like I'll spend about $75 in fittings. End cost around $250. Much more acceptable than the $800-$1,000 price tag for a 3rd function.

If I were a grapple user, I could see the expense of the 3rd function valve and expense. Since there will never be a time I will need to curl my snow blade at the same time I want to angle it, the diverter just made good sense to me.

Picking up my hydraulic fittings today and plan on finishing up the install this weekend. I'll update with pictures when I finish. Pretty happy so far with the install.

Here is the diverter I went with after several suggestions from forum users.

RCW · Dec 30, 2016

BAP said:
With pavement you shouldn't need shoes. The only time it might be necessary on pavement would be if the pavement was in poor shape and broken up. Then you might want them to keep from catching an edge of the pavement and ripping it up.

BAP - very true, but if Downey is plowing, he's going to need to push it somewhere off the driveway to get it out of the way....no shoes=torn up lawn. Just a thought.

Downey - In NC, maybe it'd be gone quick enough to leave it on/near the asphalt?.? Just asking, don't know how much snow you get. In our area, room to push it is always the challenge when plowing..

Good luck!

LDowney · Jan 1, 2017

Update- Well, got the hydraulic diverter installed yesterday. Took me less than an hour. Key advice is to take the diverter as I did to a hydraulic shop and have them give you all the correct fittings to make sure everything matches up. That's what I did. I have $75 in the fittings and $175 in the diverter. $250 total. Very pleased with the install and function.

I posted a video when I finished up. Also took some photos.

https://youtu.be/E9Xu1cKTbj0

Adding Snow Plow- Switching Hydraulic Line Question?

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