Dual axle trailer brakes question. Do I need trailer brakes?

torch · Jan 18, 2018

Another support option would be legs on the trailer itself. Something simple like a sliding piece of pipe or square tube with holes for a pin on each side of the trailer.

A few advantages to this over a support sticking out from a tailgate: they don't stick out so less likely to bang your knee when working around the trailer, less weight when raising/lowering the tailgate, can be used with ramps, can be used on uneven ground.

The disadvantage of course is that you have to remember to raise and lower them as a separate step from raising and lowering the tailgate.

Rdrett · Jan 18, 2018

torch said:
Another support option would be legs on the trailer itself. Something simple like a sliding piece of pipe or square tube with holes for a pin on each side of the trailer.

A few advantages to this over a support sticking out from a tailgate: they don't stick out so less likely to bang your knee when working around the trailer, less weight when raising/lowering the tailgate, can be used with ramps, can be used on uneven ground.

The disadvantage of course is that you have to remember to raise and lower them as a separate step from raising and lowering the tailgate.

Thanks again for the useful post.
It gave me a good ideal.
How about those scissor jack that are used on travel trailers.
I could install 2 on the rear and it won’t cause a clearance issue so my tail end won’t drag.
I will check into the jacks and see if I can find one heavy duty enough for my application.

Thanks everyone who provides useful information it has gave me some good ideals.

torch · Jan 18, 2018

Rdrett said:
How about those scissor jack that are used on travel trailers.

I did something similar to level a homemade mobile porta-potty trailer using automotive scissor jacks from a wrecking yard -- just welded the top of the jack to the underside of the trailer frame.

Ok for something you are just going to use a few times a year. A lot of cranking for something you might use a few times a day.

bcp · Jan 18, 2018

The problem with a rear support leg with pin holes is when the weight doesn't come off them once the trailer is loaded. Then you can't pull the pin.

I like the trailers I've seen with the tubular mount for a tongue jack on both sides at the rear.

Bruce

Charlie5320 · Jan 18, 2018

Rdrett said:
This is one of my two options I am now considering.
I think it would be better than the pull out ramps because I can build a support on the ramps to prevent the rear of the tow vehicle from lifting while loading and unloading.

His has the support arms built into the ramps, but they are short enough that the back of the truck does come up a bit when he is loading. His are nonadjustable, and stick out. Have to be careful walking around the back of the trailer. He's had his trailer and Kubota 2710 more than 17 years. He uses that tractor for every thing.

anthonyv · Jan 18, 2018

FWIW I use a cordless drill to raise & lower my jacks on the trailer. Quick & easy.

sdk1968 · Jan 18, 2018

anthonyv said:
FWIW I use a cordless drill to raise & lower my jacks on the trailer. Quick & easy.

^^^ was gonna say this is how we do it at work...

20v screwgun with a socket on it. zips it up & down.

rdrett: this is a very friendly place & its pretty rare that anyone here gives anyone any grief on anything.

but back to your trailer: those rear full width fold up gates can be heavy, and im getting old & broken down... so i get your concern there, but all you gotta do is get a set of gate assisters like these:

https://www.ebay.com/i/152157270202?chn=ps

they come in all different strengths or you can even put a $15 hand crank on the gate & do it with the same screw gun you would use on the jacks.

lots of ways to skin a cat.

just remember that the money you put into this is well worth it if you use your trailer a lot.

i'll never go back to a ramped trailer after having the tilt top.

IF i was to ever go to a trailer with sides again? would STILL go with a dump style & just make sure it was big enough to fit my stuff.

rogerwh0825 · Jan 18, 2018

Full gate versus ramps. When you get to that large of a vehicle I'm not sure how much the wind resistance of the gate causes. I've got a 1500 with small v-8 and two trailers. One a 14 ft with full rear gate, the second a 18 ft with dovetail which reduces the height of the rear gate to about 30" versus the 54" for the other. The 18 ft is heavier but tows so much easier due to the wind resistance. You don't notice it going 40-45 but get up around 60 mph and very noticeable. Would much prefer ramps myself.

Rdrett · Feb 21, 2018

Lots of hard work and lots of money got me this far.

I need to install a deck.

Question is what kind of wood? Pressure treated or just regular wood?

dirtydeed · Feb 21, 2018

Rdrett said:
Lots of hard work and lots of money got me this far.

I need to install a deck.

Question is what kind of wood? Pressure treated or just regular wood?

Pressure treated 2x's, not 5/4.

torch · Feb 21, 2018

Looking good!

I would recommend PT. Dirt and moisture will create breeding grounds for rot otherwise.

Charlie5320 · Feb 21, 2018

Rdrett said:
Lots of hard work and lots of money got me this far.

I need to install a deck.

Question is what kind of wood? Pressure treated or just regular wood?

If it were mine, I'd use treated 2x8s, for strength. My 10 ft trailer came with regular 2x6s and they are rotted in just 3 years. I fell through the floor last fall just standing on it. Damned near broke my leg. I'm going with treated 2x8s when it warms up a bit.

North Idaho Wolfman · Feb 21, 2018

I like hard wood decks, but you'll need to have a friend in the business in order to not loose your shirt, shorts, and your left... you get the point.

Hard maple being one of the best, or if you can get poplar that works really well.

I'm not a fan of conventional treated wood as it's brittle.
If I had to do a deck with common Douglas fir, lay it all out leaving a 1/8 gap between boards, then drill it mark placement pull the boards and use a good deck stain to treat the lumber.

Kennyd4110 · Feb 21, 2018

Rdrett said:
Lots of hard work and lots of money got me this far.

I need to install a deck.

Question is what kind of wood? Pressure treated or just regular wood?

Looking good!

My suggestion is to use rough sawn white oak, call some local lumber/saw mills and inquiry about it, I did my 16' trailer for about $180 last year. After it's dried good, paint it with used engine oil to waterproof it. PT lumber is hard on the steel framing and screws it touches, and it shrinks a bunch when drying.

Rdrett · Feb 21, 2018

I thought about using 2x12’s so I will need to use less stainless steel carriage bolts to hold the boards down.
Most recommend 2x8’s is there a disadvantage using 2x12’s?

Bunker Buster · Feb 22, 2018

My big trailer uses 2x8's and 2x10's. Around here you can get re-purposed telephone poles for a reasonable price. They will last a long time compared to regular PT wood!

torch · Feb 22, 2018

Rdrett said:
Most recommend 2x8’s is there a disadvantage using 2x12’s?

Twisting. A wider board is more likely to twist over time.

sdk1968 · Feb 22, 2018

if you are gonna do a wood deck?

rough saw lumber is much better than commercial treated stuff.

but you have to work with what you got available.

for me? i'll never have another wood deck trailer after having the steel deck. If it gets scraped? ya just repaint it.

D2Cat · Feb 22, 2018

Daren Todd rebuilt a trailer last summer and that thread has many similar post that may help. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31772&highlight=trailer

Rdrett · Feb 22, 2018

Thanks everyone. This forum has been a great help.

One thing I would like to point out I found from my research.

PT “pressure treated” wood since 2004 is VERY highly corrosive to metal. If you use PT you need to use stainless steel fasteners.

After doing my research I have decided to go with rough cut white pine 1 1/2 X 6 X14.

I called around sawmills and was surprised to hear that rough cut white pine ***127794; is cheaper than the junk PT from the hardware store.

I picked up some white pine and 3/8 stainless steel carriage bolts with nylon lock nuts to re-deck the trailer with.

The last thing I need to figure out is what to use to treat the wood. I have thought about using boiled linseed oil, pine tar or diesel and oil mix.
Any suggestions on what to treat the wood with?

Dual axle trailer brakes question. Do I need trailer brakes?

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