Carry all build specs and material

Forvols

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Jan 28, 2017
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So I want to make a carry all for wood tools weight etc. This will be on a L2501HST. Decided on a King Kutter carry all from Northern tools My questions are:

1. How wide do you make it, to cover the full track of the rear tires or alittle shorter?
2. What size boards 2x10, 2x12, 2x6 pressure treated?
3. What size and type of bolts for the boards to the carry all frame?

Doing sides etc I will figure out just trying to lessen the materials I buy for the boards and bolts.
 

Traderdell

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So I want to make a carry all for wood tools weight etc. This will be on a L2501HST. Decided on a King Kutter carry all from Northern tools My questions are:

1. How wide do you make it, to cover the full track of the rear tires or alittle shorter?
2. What size boards 2x10, 2x12, 2x6 pressure treated?
3. What size and type of bolts for the boards to the carry all frame?

Doing sides etc I will figure out just trying to lessen the materials I buy for the boards and bolts.
I used a TSC frame and repurposed old oak boards I had originally used some 30 years ago to build mangers when we had horses. That not only made me feel good but added weight to the unit. I know I didn’t answer your question but I’m just so pleased with the way it turned out I thought I’d share.
 

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Mainah

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I used a TSC frame and repurposed old oak boards I had originally used some 30 years ago to build mangers when we had horses. That not only made me feel good but added weight to the unit. I know I didn’t answer your question but I’m just so pleased with the way it turned out I thought I’d share.
Nice toy box you got there!
 

Creature Meadow

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JackJ

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I'm thinking 5/4" (nominal, actually 1") treated deck lumber should be sufficient when I get around to building mine. Haven't yet figured out board width and length numbers yet, but when I do, I'll use the same highly sophisticated SOTP algorithm.
 

JustinB60

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I think I overbuilt mine... I don't think you necessarily need to use 2x lumber but I did and it'll give me a little piece of mind. I used Zinc 1/2" carriage bolts with flat washers and lock nuts on all attachment points to carry all. All the wood I used is treated lumber. Mine looks a little weird because I had to make cutouts for my quick hitch to work with it. Also my wood is all different colors because I used scrap lying around. I'm planning to add a chainsaw carrier to it this weekend as well as attach a few other items to the sides of it.

For the "back" of mine (vertical side closest to tractor) I used (listed bottom to top):
2x6, 2x6, 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 - ALL CUT about 48 1/4" wide so I could fit a pallet if I want later, puts you bout 1" above the frame of carry all

For "floor" I used (starting from back):
2x6, 2x10, 2x8, 2x12 (I wanted extra over hang on the last one, 2x10 is ok too) - ALL CUT about 48 1/4" wide

Sides on mine are (listed bottom to top):
2x6, 2x8 2x10, 2x8 - These are cut on an angle and screwed down on an angle to the boards below them and I put a reinforcing board on the outside that runs along the back edge of the sides.

I got my basic setup from Youtube "Outdoors with the Morgans" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14CnYMeINWk

A few extra's that I like are the following.
To Attach an axe or other handled item: Original Quick Fist Clamp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQPANY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To enable me to use rope/bungee/cables to hold things into the carry-all I used D rings like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073B54MFD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Overall just build yours to fit your needs.
 

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JustinB60

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Creature Meadow

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I think I like your carry all design he best of all of the ones I've seen to date. I might steal that removable "tailgate" design! :D
Hey Justin, steal away.......:)

I used 2X for mine because I also wanted the carryall to serve as ballast and 2X is cheaper than 5/4 decking.

I leave the tailgate hanging on the back of the carryall most of the time but I do put it on when hauling some things so it doesn't roll or fall out.

If you have questions about specifics of my carryall let me know and I will try and get you answers.

Just picked up a QH yesterday so I will have to cut out around the hitch pins to allow for it to hook up, project for tonight.
 

Forvols

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Thanks all. After doing some checking I think I will go with the countryline from TSC due to no shipping and I can pick up locally. Thanks for the build ideas and materials used, I will use 2x treated lumber also.

Check this link out here is what this guy did using a TSC country line carry all to get some space for the QA lower connections.

http://swampyacresfarm.com/TractorCarry-all.html
 
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JustinB60

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Thanks all. After doing some checking I think I will go with the countryline from TSC due to no shipping and I can pick up locally. Thanks for the build ideas and materials used, I will use 2x treated lumber also.

Check this link out here is what this guy did using a TSC country line carry all to get some space for the QA lower connections.

http://swampyacresfarm.com/TractorCarry-all.html

That looks pretty good the way the guy did that with the offset of wood. I thought about just throwing a 2x4 behind the back side of mine but it wouldn't have allowed me to use the bolts that I already had on hand.
 

RCW

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Thanks all. After doing some checking I think I will go with the countryline from TSC due to no shipping and I can pick up locally. Thanks for the build ideas and materials used, I will use 2x treated lumber also.



Check this link out here is what this guy did using a TSC country line carry all to get some space for the QA lower connections.



http://swampyacresfarm.com/TractorCarry-all.html
Not criticizing his build at all, but I wouldn't screw the deck/back boards to a spacer or base framing. Just me.

Using a TSC Carry-All frame, only thing I would do different is add a 3/8-1/2" spacer of rubber, plastic, galvanized washers, or pressure-treated strips between frame uprights and the 2x lumber that makes the carry-all. Fasten them all together with 1/2" carriage bolts.

I didn't have a Quick Hitch when I built this a couple weeks ago, so wasn't thinking:



I got a QH last weekend, and had to chisel some of the back boards away to get a fit at the 3 points. Thought about taking it apart to include a spacer, but didn't have the parts/materials on hand.

A small spacer or furring strip would make room for the Quick Hitch hooks.......

JMHO...
 
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Forvols

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I like the idea of spacers or furring strip for the upright, I don't see that its needed for the bottom portion. That way as stated above you can still bolt directly to the carry all frame.

Made my shopping list and carry all build will cost me 320.00 bucks. Using all 2x pressure treated lumber, Countryline carry all frame, toplink pin, bushings(toplink and lift arms) carriage bolts, nuts, washers, pins for lift arms and toplink. Couple other cats and dogs that I already have. Hooking up to a 3pt landpride QH15 on the back of a L2501/HST.
 
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Forvols

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Hawkins county TN
My TSC carryall build so far. Probably over building it, hooking up to QH15 on a L2501. Going to add side 2x4s and chainsaw holder and few other tool holders..I used 1/2in carriage bolts, 1x4in furring strips to give me clearance on the lift pins and toplink. All 2x pressure treated lumber furring strips are also pressure treated. Sucker is getting heavy. I'm liking it so far.
 

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JeepinMaxx

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I picked up the one from a semi Local TS



I was going to build the deck with 2x6 lumber - But I have a 1/4" 48x40 piece of steel plate kicking around - anyone use a steel for a deck instead of wood
 

jfralph

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Kubota BX25D, 60"deck, grass cather, mulching kit, 3pt hitch,
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Just be aware, I like steel, however, it will be loud. Anything metal on the plate will bounce and make lots of noise. Another thing, that steel will be plenty heavy without a load on it. Lighter steel would be louder, but control weight better.