L185DT alternator

Dave_eng

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,124
931
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
Oil pan 4 said:
I am well aware of the 1 wire conversation. I also know why it sucks. When you go to 1 wire you lose remote voltage sensing. As the alternator puts out more amps the voltage at the battery drops.
The one wire conversation is mainly for people who don't understand charging systems, can't read a schematic or don't know how to use a multi meter.
With 3 wire operation I get a steady 14.4v at the battery until the alternator output is exceeded.
I do need to install a voltage meter so I don't drain the battery with lights and stuff.
Click to expand...
Glad you understand the design. Most don't and these individuals spend countless hours trying to get the remote sensing working and a charge light working when, in reality, on their machine it is not important. Owners with your skill level are not having to come to forums seeking advice and help.

Many tractors, because tractors are often without high consuming options like heated seats, heated rear windows, AC, electric fan, use a simple dynamo which has zero feedback in the charging system. Just a Zenor diode to bleed off excess voltage and amps.

Many owners have gone to the Denso and independent voltage display and have been very pleased with the results. If a large wire is used between the one wire Denso and the battery, there is little voltage drop difference you could measure to justify remote sensing.

Remember, I am not trying to put down what you are doing only to explain why I provide the advice I do.

Dave
 
O

Oil pan 4

Active member

Equipment
L185 turbo
Sep 21, 2017
412
107
43
NM
I could go into the tach cluster and rewire the ignition switch and batt. light circuit to work like an old GM vehicle but that's too much work.

I wanted to find the easy solution that works for everyone.
Since a lot of people my self included would add accessories to my tractor by wiring them to the battery (hopefully using a fuse), you want that battery to stay at 14.4v after you turn your gadgets on so that your battery lasts a long time and you want your tractor to start right up when you need it.

What it will look like is I have removed the external voltage regulator, reused the old wiring harness plug, add some jumpers and a switch using spade terminals and reuse one of the old alt wires for the #2 spot on the alternator.
Once I plug the light back in and add the switch, hopefully this weekend I will add some pictures and a little diagram.

I already tested it and it's pretty much fool proof, as long as nothing is shorted to ground you don't have to worry about accidentally making the wrong connection and melting wires or bring something up.
 
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