I've been posting on other subframe threads and I suppose it's time to start my own. First pic is the front. Second is the bracket for the towers. Third is the bracket for the towers about where it goes. The last one is the bottom of the transaxle.
Another Subframe Build
- Thread starter bucktail
- Start date
Currently I have a stick welder that plugs into a 115 outlet. It isn't going to cut it.I have a line on a bigger one. For cutting I have an angle grinder. I'm going to try to find a fab shop to do the work for me so if anyone knows of one in the northwest suburbs of Minneapolis St Paul area that could be helpful
Good luck with the fab shop. I live in Cambridge ( MN ) and up here all I want is to rent a plasma torch. Nowhere to be found.
As for the 115 welder, no ... it's not going to work. I have a Miller Multimate and while it will do up to 1/4 on 115 ( allegedly ), there's no comparing the quality to a 220V weld. A stick welder's just fine, but you gotta have the 220.
Yeah I know I need to upgrade the welder. I'll probably do that whether I do it myself or not. I'm more concerned about cutting. The 4 1/2 angle grinder takes a long and can't get into corners
That’s a good looking l1500dt you got. How is your decal so nice after 45 years?!
Interested in your build. One day I hope to do the same if I ever find a loader. I’ll follow in yours and Darens footsteps!
Interested in your build. One day I hope to do the same if I ever find a loader. I’ll follow in yours and Darens footsteps!
If you're really stuck and need to cut things where the grinder can't get. I've been amazed at what a sawzall (recip saw) with the right blade can cut thru. Where there's a will there's a way.
Good luck with the build
Good luck with the build
Thanks, Mike. I've only had it a couple of years. The previous owner painted it and put new tires on it. It doesn't look like the decals were replaced at the same time but they're in good shape. I never got to meet him. He passed away with ~130 compact and subcompact tractors. A bunch of his neighbors got together to help sell them and I got this on from one of them.That’s a good looking l1500dt you got. How is your decal so nice after 45 years?!
Interested in your build. One day I hope to do the same if I ever find a loader. I’ll follow in yours and Darens footsteps!
I hear ya. That's my fabrication weak point. $300 plasma cutters can be had, but you're getting exactly what you pay for: a $300 plasma cutter. A quality Miller or Hobart that will handle 1/2" will run more than $1200, and I just can justify that ... yet.
Short of a plasma cutter, you can get a hand-held power band saw for around $100. I got a little cheapy from Harbor Freight years ago and it's indispensable. It will pretty much cut any thickness; you just have to take your time but it beats the hell out of a manual hack saw.
tcrote5516
New member
Equipment
BX1860, FEL, 50" Front Blower, Heated Cab, 6' blade, 3pt carry all, 3pt hitch
When the cheap ones dropped below $300 I had to try it. I shot a video review showing the inside and out. I've cut 1/2" with it and it does a very good job. I have to admit, it's a great deal and looks like it's going to hold up decent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMwNokIOlNA
I think I have a fab shop to do the subframe. I need to get the holes cleaned up. Also need to get the hydraulic system figured out. This is the valve I got with the loader. Assuming it's open center. Does anyone know of another source of the blocks for tapping into the hydraulic system? I pmd Lance a while back and haven't heard back. Haven't seen him post in a while either.
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Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
If you can't locate a hydraulic block, you can always add a couple compression fittings with NPT thread on the other end and splice into the hydraulic pressure line.
Or another option is to weld a couple fittings to the pressure line. Just depends on what your more comfortable with.
Granted the block is a cleaner install though.
I went with stainless 12mm x 1/2NPT compression fitting that were 90 degrees so it was easier to hook up the hydraulic lines. Sourced through EBay from china with free shipping. Fittings were under $10 each.
Local suppliers wanted $30 each plus shipping and were special order since they were metric. Figured at that price I could wait a bit
Or another option is to weld a couple fittings to the pressure line. Just depends on what your more comfortable with.
Granted the block is a cleaner install though.
I went with stainless 12mm x 1/2NPT compression fitting that were 90 degrees so it was easier to hook up the hydraulic lines. Sourced through EBay from china with free shipping. Fittings were under $10 each.
Local suppliers wanted $30 each plus shipping and were special order since they were metric. Figured at that price I could wait a bit
Hard to tell from the pics, some of the pipe fittings may or may not be hydraulic pressure rated, worth checking just in case. Whilst it's worked before, if they aren't properly rated, a few new fittings is cheap compared to have a failure when using. YMMV
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Compression fittings at 2000 psi? I feel like I'm missing something here.If you can't locate a hydraulic block, you can always add a couple compression fittings with NPT thread on the other end and splice into the hydraulic pressure line.
Or another option is to weld a couple fittings to the pressure line. Just depends on what your more comfortable with.
Granted the block is a cleaner install though.
I went with stainless 12mm x 1/2NPT compression fitting that were 90 degrees so it was easier to hook up the hydraulic lines. Sourced through EBay from china with free shipping. Fittings were under $10 each.
Local suppliers wanted $30 each plus shipping and were special order since they were metric. Figured at that price I could wait a bit
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Mine works and hold fine. Compression fittings were rated for 3000 psi. I checked the stats before buying them. Pressure relief on my loader kicks in at 1500 psi according to the manual. So I'm hitting them at half there rated capacity.
I was thinking the same thing till I talked to Wolfman about it and he suggested that option.
Couple of thoughts on cleaning the rusted threads. I started by digging out the rotten plastic out and shooting pb blaster into the holes to soak. I slotted a bolt to clean the holes. The bolts were marked 8.8. Most of you probably know this but 8.8 on a metric bolt is more like a grade 5. 10.9 is closer to grade 8. So I went back to the drawing board. At Wolfman's suggestion I soaked cotton with pb blaster and stuffed it into the holes. After soaking for a few weeks I bought a few 45 caliber brushes. I used the brushes with a cordless drill and precleaned the holes with that then chased the threads with a slotted grade 10.9 bolt. Night and day difference.
It's stalled for now. I had some days off between Christmas and New Years and was going to take it in then, but then we got slushy snow that froze and they were welding on snow removal equipment. My building project is stalled now too, so I won't need it until spring at the earliest.
I found mounts for an L1500 on craigslist but they're for a bushhog loader. I think that the rear mount looks promising. The front appears to be entirely different but my Belarus front mount just needs some clearance cuts and some holes drilled. He's asking $50 so to me it's worth a shot. Wish me luck.
Black Swamp Rentals have them, so does Sunbelt Equipment rentals. If you want to drive here I have a real nice Hypertherm 65 computer controlled unit you can use... Have the 'Fine Cut' consumables and the CNC head for my plasma table.
I'm a Lincoln person (have 2 Lincoln TIG welders but my favorite Glue Gun (MIG) has to be a Hobart 190, Handler 220 Volt single phase wire welder (shielded gas). Fantastic wet out, lays a nice bead and extremely controllable.. I run the bags out of mine and have for 10 years with no issues other than a couple nozzles and some contact tips. Think I've ran a couple hundred pounds of 030 solid wire through it, no issues at all.
I have SMAW (stick) as well. My TIG machine will run stick as will my engine driven Lincoln but, for ease of use and post weld appearance, you cannot beat a MIG and with the right shielding gas you can weld aluminum as well. You cannot weld aluminum with SMAW, well you can with specialized rod, but it's ugly.