What size pulling chain?

RCW

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I've used 5/16" for years.

My "go to" chain is long, and my father used it to chain up loads of milk cans when he had a route trucking for other dairy farmers in the 1960's.

We used it skidding firewood into the early '90's, also towing, pulling, etc. .....that thing has been through some wars..... Have 3 altogether.

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Clover13

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boz1989

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Thanks D2! Yes the horizontal one coming out the back of the tractor from the center low point of the rear. Not the vertical adjustment drawbar.

Any thoughts on the chain links above? All the same just different prices?
I have the hf chain, the nice coloring disappears after some use. Not sure how it holds up on the others. This is not an issue for me, but it might be if I used it to chain stuff down and had to deal with DOT.

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skeets

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I guess I should get the bucket of chains I stole and head over the hill and start to drag out some tree tops to a spot I can at least cut them up anyway, well when Doc says I can use a chain saw again :D
 

Missouribound

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I am a frequent Amazon shopper.
I bought the 20' 5/16" chain for $37.99 last year....no tax, free shipping.
 

dalola

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I have various bits & pieces for 1/4, 5/16, & 3/8.

I find myself reaching for the 1/4 nearly every time. If you're working with it very long, you will tire quickly with the 5/16 & 3/8.

Of course tractor size & weight plays a big part. Can't imagine a BX or B would need more than 1/4 95% of the time.

Just my $.02. :)
 

troverman

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For 5/16 in. x 20 ft. Grade 70...why such big price differences?
Grade 70 is considered "transport" chain and is significantly stronger than unrated or lower grade chain. You can tell a grade 70 by the yellow-brass coating.

Beware of cheap HF, or likely Home Depot / Lowes and TS chain. It is almost certainly Chinese. I would not trust that the grade was even legit. Chinese steel often has impurities and is weaker than US steel. It's one thing if the steel is used in non-critical applications. Chain is a critical application.

I buy all my chain from Tulsa Chain. Great people to deal with, and fair prices. They are very clear what is US made and what it Chinese. They try to sell mostly US made products. They offer more than just chain - binders, shackles, ratchet straps, etc, etc. I'm willing to pay more for US made. It's not fair to folks trying to make a living manufacturing products in the US from US materials that the Chinese can dump their junk on us at prices no American plant could begin to match. When you buy something at HF, consider how little money the workers that made it must be paid in order for the company to cover the materials, labor, shipping, import duties, and markup by HF...and still sell it to you at a third of the cost.

I use all 5/16 Grade 70 chain for both yanking and chaining down my equipment.
 

Clover13

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Grade 70 is considered "transport" chain and is significantly stronger than unrated or lower grade chain. You can tell a grade 70 by the yellow-brass coating.

Beware of cheap HF, or likely Home Depot / Lowes and TS chain. It is almost certainly Chinese. I would not trust that the grade was even legit. Chinese steel often has impurities and is weaker than US steel. It's one thing if the steel is used in non-critical applications. Chain is a critical application.

I buy all my chain from Tulsa Chain. Great people to deal with, and fair prices. They are very clear what is US made and what it Chinese. They try to sell mostly US made products. They offer more than just chain - binders, shackles, ratchet straps, etc, etc. I'm willing to pay more for US made. It's not fair to folks trying to make a living manufacturing products in the US from US materials that the Chinese can dump their junk on us at prices no American plant could begin to match. When you buy something at HF, consider how little money the workers that made it must be paid in order for the company to cover the materials, labor, shipping, import duties, and markup by HF...and still sell it to you at a third of the cost.

I use all 5/16 Grade 70 chain for both yanking and chaining down my equipment.
Nice, thanks for the company info!
What do you like to use for a shackle on a drawbar (3/4" hole I believe).
And what do you like for a clevis for the chains (5/16")?
 

JeepinMaxx

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I use US made grade 70 5/16" chain. Works great with my bolt on bucket hooks! 20ft fits inside a small ammo can
 

Mister

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Check antique stores. Usually there's at least a booth or two that have old tools, and they'll have nice old US made chains in good shape that you can buy for less than HF

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troverman

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Nice, thanks for the company info!
What do you like to use for a shackle on a drawbar (3/4" hole I believe).
And what do you like for a clevis for the chains (5/16")?
Drawbar hole size varies by size of your tractor. Off hand, I can't remember. But find a shackle with a suitable size pin (and opening to clear the thickness of the drawbar) with the highest WLL as possible. Clevis hooks will need to match the grade and size of chain you are buying.

My primary purpose of chain is for transport or lifting, rather than dragging.
 

Clover13

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Drawbar hole size varies by size of your tractor. Off hand, I can't remember. But find a shackle with a suitable size pin (and opening to clear the thickness of the drawbar) with the highest WLL as possible. Clevis hooks will need to match the grade and size of chain you are buying.

My primary purpose of chain is for transport or lifting, rather than dragging.
Right, so my B2650 drawbar is 1.26" thick and has ~3/4" holes.

Excuse my newbie ignorance here, I just want to be sure I'm approaching this correctly/safely.

If I get 5/16" chain and 5/16" hooks (grade 70) and I want to attach it to a shackle on the drawbar, I have three options (that I can think of):

1. I have to hook the 5/16" hook directly to the shackle loop. This requires the shackle thickness being able to accommodate the 5/16" hook opening width.

2. I need to pass the hook and chain through the shackle loop (gonna have to be big) to hook back onto the 5/16" chain.

3. I can oversize the shackle thickness for greater WTT and then get a different hook to match it that would then get attached to the chain. I just have to be sure the pin from the bigger hook can fit through 5/16" chain or I have to add an "adapter" ring/loop of equal strength (grade 70+) to allow for the connection.

Does that sound about right in terms of options or am I totally overthinking this? I just keep thinking about the saying "a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link" and want to be sure I don't add something that will compromise the entire system.
 

RCW

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2. I need to pass the hook and chain through the shackle loop (gonna have to be big) to hook back onto the 5/16" chain.
This is my method. I have couple very old twisted clevis's that I use. Loop a chain through the clevis and hook back on itself.

My experience is mostly skidding trees/firewood. Usually done better if they're hooked "short", so you need to adjust/shorten chain length anyway, if that makes sense....
 
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Clover13

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This is my method. I have couple very old twisted clevis's that I use. Loop a chain through the clevis and hook back on itself.

My experience is mostly skidding trees/firewood. Usually done better if they're hooked "short", so you need to adjust/shorten chain length anyway, if that makes sense....
Interesting. By short, you mean it's easier to skid/drag them with a shorter chain, so you're effectively taking a 20' and maybe dragging only 8-10' of length to keep it closer to the tractor or skid steer?
 
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RCW

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Chenango County, NY
Interesting. By short, you mean it's easier to skid/drag them with a shorter chain, so you're effectively taking a 20' and maybe dragging only 8-10' of length to keep it closer to the tractor or skid steer?
Yes - could be much less - - especially if obstacles nearby - - allows more control/steerage, but not so tight to risk a roll/slide into rear of tractor. Short also creates some "lift" at the front of the payload, so it digs in the dirt a little less.

I can still hear my father yell "hook it short!" when we did a lot of firewood. We pulled some good hitches with the 'Moline.

Only reason I have the twisted clevises is that's all I ever used. I find them real easy to loop/pull chain through....
 
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troverman

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I guess we should clarify - when you speak of the drawbar, are you referring to the one attached to the base of the tractor below the axle? Or are you referring to a "drawbar" that attaches to the two lower links of the three point hitch?

If you are referring to the one attached to the bottom of the tractor axle / transmission casing, specific chain hook attachments are available. You remove the pin, slide the factory bar out, and slide this chain hook in and replace the pin. It allows 5/16 chain to be slit in and held. Here is a link:

https://express.google.com/u/0/prod...MI4v7DtqCC4QIVA4zICh01aQzGEAQYASABEgIJLfD_BwE
 

Clover13

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Yes - could be much less - - especially if obstacles nearby - - allows more control/steerage, but not so tight to risk a roll/slide into rear of tractor.

I can still hear my father yell "hook it short!" when we did a lot of firewood. We pulled some good hitches with the 'Moline.

Only reason I have the twisted clevises is that's all I ever used. I find them real easy to loop/pull chain through....
Thanks! I definitely like the flexibility to adjust chain length by passing it through. I'll look for something with a big loop so I can pass my chain and hook through it.
 
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