Champion Compressor and Electric Motor

ehenry

Active member

Equipment
BX22, FEL, BH, 40" pto tiller, 42" Bushog Squealer, pto hole digger, B7300 w/60"
Mar 25, 2014
356
88
28
Canton, MS
All, I've inherited the compressor in the pics below. The only thing that has any information on it is the tank. There is what I'm guessing is the compressor model number cast in the compressor block and absolutely no information on the electric motor. Does anyone here know anything about the motor on this thing? The tank was manufactured in 1969 so I'm guessing the entire unit was probably sold in the early 70's.

The compressor runs good an will fill the tank up in 8.5 minutes when its completely empty. I'm guessing that's fairly good.

Sorry about the sideways pics...…...
 

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GeoHorn

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
May 18, 2018
5,575
2,942
113
Texas
The Beaird Tank Co. has been in business many years... they made the 500 gal propane tank at my place dated 1950, and it still passes. The little elect motor looks like a 240 volt (?) Emerson, probably a 15 Amp, 3450 RPM, CCW rotation? Don't try to run it on a portable generator you'll likely burn it up. The capacitors are run and start and can't be properly serviced by most portable generators less than 10 KW.
 

KennysNewFarm

Member

Equipment
MX5800
Dec 28, 2017
220
13
18
Missouri
All, I've inherited the compressor in the pics below. The only thing that has any information on it is the tank. There is what I'm guessing is the compressor model number cast in the compressor block and absolutely no information on the electric motor. Does anyone here know anything about the motor on this thing? The tank was manufactured in 1969 so I'm guessing the entire unit was probably sold in the early 70's.

The compressor runs good an will fill the tank up in 8.5 minutes when its completely empty. I'm guessing that's fairly good.

Sorry about the sideways pics...…...
Looks to be a 5 hp 230 volt single phase motor. But it is just a guess. 8.5 mins of pump up time seem high. I would think 5 mins would be max on a solid compressor. But there are missing variables for me to determine actual. Be cautious of the tank being rusted out. I would check to see if there is water in the bottom or rust coming out of it. Someone bypassed the bleed off from the high pressure side to the crankcase pin. Now it is being ran to the pressure switch. Not a big deal but if you ever need to replace the switch keep that in mind.
 

ehenry

Active member

Equipment
BX22, FEL, BH, 40" pto tiller, 42" Bushog Squealer, pto hole digger, B7300 w/60"
Mar 25, 2014
356
88
28
Canton, MS
I have no intention of running this compressor on a generator. Someone had already rerouted the bleed off to a pressure switch. The switch it came with was bad and would not cut out. That's how I know the popoff valve works. The gage showed 165 when it popped off. I replaced the switch and wired it in to my shop power. I also replaced the bleeder cock with an L, short piece of pipe and ball valve. When I drain the moisture from the tank it isn't rusty per say but its not exactly clean either. The new switch I installed is a 95/125.
 

CaveCreekRay

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L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Jul 11, 2014
2,631
93
48
Cave Creek, AZ
Inspect or have the tank inspected. Unless it was properly drained, it may be structurally unsound and fracture under pressure. Pull the access hole and see what's going on inside the tank, especially the bottom.

From the looks of the outside, that machine has led a tough life.

Just sayin'...
 

SidecarFlip

Banned

Equipment
M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
7,197
546
83
USA
That compressor is entirely rebuildable. It's a Saylor-Beal design. You'll find the parts online. I think I'd pull the head and replace the reed valve assembly or at least clean the carbon off the reed valves and head and install a new head gasket. It's after cooled, a good thing. Change to oil too. I';d say t's probably 30 weight non detergent but there are reciprocating compressor specific oils on the market, I use Rarus (Mobil) reciprocating compressor oil in all 3 of mine, yes, I have 3 plus an IR inline refrigerated air dryer. I use lots of air when pressure sandblasting and running my plasma CNC table. All 3 of mine running together gives me 30 CFM at 135 psi. In reality to run anything, 135 psi is plenty (including impact tools). The lower the cut off pressure is, the less wear and tear there is on the compressor and less carbon buildup on the reed valves too.

Clean and/or replace the air filter as well. I replaced the air filters on mine with K&N cleanable air filters, it's a Solberg air filter btw.

My Champ has a 120 gallon vertical receiver (tank) and a 7.5 horse capacitor start, induction run US motor. The other 2 have 5 horse cap start induction run motors. Looks to me like yours is a 5 horse. Keep in mind that with any cap start motor, inrush amperage is 3 times running amperage, so if the motor is pulling 10 amps on 220/1 running, it will take 30 amps to start it. Easy enough to ascertain running amps with a clamp meter.

The unloader is very important as the compressor needs to have the head unloaded to start correctly. The unloader on a Champ works off the end of the crankshaft with a poppet valve in the head.

Mine is at least 30 years old (bought it used, in fact bought all 3 used), rebuilt all of them and the all run just fine and are hard plumbed into my air system in the shop. I have it set up where I can run just one if I don't need a lot of CFM, or I can kick in another or all 3 if my air requirements cll for maximum CFM.

Reciprocating compressors never wear out (so long as you change the oil regularly and keep the reed valves carbon free. The killer of any compressor is water (condensate) in the receiver. All 3 of mine have automatic tank drains installed. HF sells a nifty and cheap auto drain setup that works off the unloader poppet. 2 of mine have the HF auto drains and the 3rd one has a 110 volt timed drain.

If I get time, I'll take some pictures and post them.
 

ehenry

Active member

Equipment
BX22, FEL, BH, 40" pto tiller, 42" Bushog Squealer, pto hole digger, B7300 w/60"
Mar 25, 2014
356
88
28
Canton, MS
The motor spindle bearings take grease. its an early to mid 70s vintage motor. There is an inspection cap opposite of the pulley side of the motor. What ever grease is in it is old and hard. Anyone have a clue what I should grease it with? There are sooooo many types of grease and I'm no grease engineer. I know red ep, moly, lithium, and poly urea.....that's it. All suggestions are appreciated. The most suggested is what I'll use.
 
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