Show me your Refueling Setup

jmf78 · Sep 10, 2017

Gas here is $2.89. I saw off road diesel a month or so ago for $1.99 while diesel was $2.89 at the local gas stations. It later went to $2.99 then immediately after Harvey went to $3.09 here. Not sure where the difference comes from but can only figure taxes as that's the only difference in the fuel.

$42 at Tractor Supply skeets.

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skeets · Sep 10, 2017

Truck stop this after noon, Reg 2.89, diesel 3.39

KeithG · Nov 22, 2017

Finally finished my portable 16 gallon fuel setup. I don't go through that much fuel during spring, summer and fall but in the winter I can use may 20 gallons blowing snow...

Tank: 16 gal. Flo N Go.
Dolly: From Home Depot
Pump: 12v diesel pump
Power: Modified power connector to use same connector as battery tender.

baronetm · Nov 22, 2017

Back in the late 70's I had a 300 gallon gas tank mounted on a steel frame near the barn, local ag supply would fill it on request with cash payment about 10-20 cent saving if I recall. It was real convenient until someone broke the lock and stole about 100 gallons then a short time later some dip sh*t shot bullet holes thru it, never did find the culprit. Still ticks me off every time I look at the scrap steel pile and see that ventilated tank. Can't remember exactly, seem to recall loosing about 150 gallons in the spill and the grass still won't grow well there. Moral of the story, keep all my containers inside and locked now.

fatjay · Nov 22, 2017

55gal drum and 12v pump with 14' hose and nozzle.

OldMasterTech · Nov 23, 2017

This came out nice but if I did it again I would get a slower pump. At 20 gpm it only takes 30 seconds to fill the 4630 or the kx121 and 15 seconds to fill a 5 gal jug - don't look away while filling!

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32774&stc=1&d=1511438471

mdhughes · Nov 23, 2017

OldMasterTech said:
This came out nice but if I did it again I would get a slower pump. At 20 gpm it only takes 30 seconds to fill the 4630 or the kx121 and 15 seconds to fill a 5 gal jug - don't look away while filling!

I have a 15 PGM pump and it is almost to fast when I fill my L3901DT with its 11 gallon tank. Takes longer to plug the pump in, zero my meter and get the hose over to the tractor then it does to fill it up.

KeithG · Nov 27, 2017

So I used my refueling setup (posted previously) and it ran for about 10 seconds and I could hear the air coming out of the hose and then when it started pumping fuel it stopped working. So much for my perfect setup...

After looking through the fuse and checking the connections it still would not work so I opened the hood and looked at the battery connectors and realized that the battery tender terminal cable had a fuse on it also and this fuse was only 7.5 amps. The fuse that came with the fuel motor is 25 amps.

Does anyone know if replacing the 7.5 amp fuse on the battery tender terminal cable will cause any problems with the battery tender? What is weird is that if I use the clamp connector cable that came with the battery tender then there is no fuse on it at all. So I think I know the answer to my question but was wondering if anyone has run into problems with battery tenders and fuses used with them.

Thanks, -Keith

mdhughes · Nov 27, 2017

KeithG said:
After looking through the fuse and checking the connections it still would not work so I opened the hood and looked at the battery connectors and realized that the battery tender terminal cable had a fuse on it also and this fuse was only 7.5 amps. The fuse that came with the fuel motor is 25 amps.

I would say if it has a 7.5 amp fuse, the wiring won't take the 25 amps that you pump is calling for.

Boo · Nov 28, 2017

This has worked really well for me. 44 gallons of diesel and a handpump does a good job of filling tanks on my equipment.

baronetm · Nov 28, 2017

KiethG,

The purpose of a fuse in and electrical circuit is to protect the conductor insulation and or the lowest rated component in the circuit. The actual copper or aluminum conductor may carry the current you need but the insulation is not rated for the heat that may be generated.
The solution is to size your conductor and connectors to support the max amps your load requires. A conductor and connectors may carry a much higher amperage for short periods of time such as the spike in current when a motor starts typically 5-6 times the running current and that would be well within the design.
In your case a number 12 copper conductor will carry 25 amps max but it is fused at 20 amps to protect the insulation. Your pumps max amperage under load will max out the conductor and you should not increase the fuse above 20 amps protecting the insulation. So if it were me I would install number 10 conductors and connectors rated and fused at 30 amps.
It is doubtful that for the few minutes it would take to refuel you tractor that insulation damage would occur in a slightly smaller conductor but why chance it. It’s always less expensive to do it right the first time, than having to repair the initial installation and possible damage.

jdriver · Jan 7, 2018

I have been using this setup for a month and it works great. It is expensive but very easy to use and no more lifting a 5 gallon container up to fill the tank.

kclark · Mar 18, 2018

jdriver said:
I have been using this setup for a month and it works great. It is expensive but very easy to use and no more lifting a 5 gallon container up to fill the tank.

What is this? I can't tell from the picture.

PHPaul · Mar 19, 2018

275 Gallon home heating oil tank. Bought it used from a house being torn down, flushed it out, mounted a rocker-type hand pump on it.

I get 100 or 150 gallons of off-road delivered every year or so, treat it with Power Service additive to retard gelling and algae. Good filter on the discharge hose, keep a spare on hand.

Never a problem with bad fuel in something like 10 years.

jdriver · Mar 19, 2018

Kclark, It is a 25 gallon portable fuel caddy with hand crank rotary pump. It takes 12 rotations to a gallon and works great. I purchased it through Northern Tool.

07wingnut · Jun 4, 2018

My fuel storage needs are small, since all that we run around here is a BX23. As well as needing fuel storage, a backup generator was also on the need to get list. This setup kills 2 birds with one stone, a used 8kw light tower, with a D1105 engine which coincidentally just happens to qualify as a replacement engine for the BX23.
I plumbed a second pickup fuel hose into the 40+ gallon tank (the jenny will run for 3 or 4 days on one tank), and hooked it up to a small electric fuel pump (2.2 gal/min) that runs off the light tower battery.
If more fuel is needed, just hook the trailer up to the truck and go and tank up at the nearest fuel depot. So far the setup works well.

GSPKurt · Jul 5, 2018

Adding Fuel To L3301

I'm 5'8". I have a hell of a time adding diesel to my L3301. I have only done it 3 times, but even with a funnel, I make a mess. I am really aggravated with the location of the filler and it pi**es me off that I spill fuel on my new tractor. Anyone have any input? I do use a step to get to it a little easier, but it still stinks.

Zeus401 · Jul 5, 2018

Re: Adding Fuel To L3301

Try this
Super Easy Siphon (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVAIL76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8-PpBb7Y7MJ30

Jim L. · Jul 5, 2018

Re: Adding Fuel To L3301

"No Spill" 5 gallon tank, plastic for diesel. If you don't want to lift a tank then have a look at AgriSupply for manual and electric pumps, hoses, and nozzles.

Fro65 · Jul 5, 2018

Re: Adding Fuel To L3301

I'm 5'10".
I stand on the front tire and use a long flexible spout on my fuel cans. This way I can put the spout into the filler neck before I tip the can. Before this, I too would dump fuel all over the hood. Especially with the newer, worthless Obama cans.

Show me your Refueling Setup

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