Tractor Weights
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
What model? BX1870 maybe? The letters are as important as the numbers. 
Wheel weights are good... for traction, they don't do a whole lot for loader counterbalance.
For loader counterbalance you want a ballast box.
When you post back with the model, we can tell you how much weight.
Wheel weights are good... for traction, they don't do a whole lot for loader counterbalance.
For loader counterbalance you want a ballast box.
When you post back with the model, we can tell you how much weight.
Even with liquid ballast, you cannot add enough.
A three point mounted counterweight is MUCH more effective.
Dean
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Yeah, just guessing you have a BX1870. I think your factory wheel weight option is just 50 pounds each side. Many guys here have made their own from different materials. I have my rears loaded, which is only 65 pounds/side if I remember right.
I have a pair of the factory wheel weights sitting in my cellar I never used.....I think Owner's Manual said don't put wheel weights on if tires are loaded. Don't know the reason for that, but it was immaterial as another 100 pounds wasn't going to do much for FEL work.
I don't think you'll EVER get enough weight on the wheels for FEL ballast. I use a 300 pound box blade for FEL ballast and it often isn't enough, even hangin' 3 feet off the 3PH....
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The letters are as important as the numbers.
Right. An 1870 BC tractor is much older than an 1870 AD tractor.
But the weight and balance physics are the same.
Bruce
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Jchonline
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Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
Weights arent the best for the rear axle, but I am sure it can take 50 lbs per side. It is better to get the weight lower to the ground (ie filled tires) or further from the loader (ie rear ballast). Have you considered just getting a rear implement that can double as rear ballast? Box blade, rotary cutter, rear angle blade, etc. Some also make combo ballast/tool carriers...these are my favorite!
Jchonline
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Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
They put weight on the rear axle instead of below it, which I was told isnt good. Is this incorrect?
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I would think it makes no difference in as much as my units can be ordered with plain stamped steel wheels or cast iron centers from Kubota. Not sure of the exact weight per wheel but I'd say at least 200 pounds each side.
Because of what I do with mine (tractors), I'm not a fan of too much weight front or rear because of the ground compaction issue.
That can become real issue and impact yields in damp or wet soils. Why Kubota and other builders offer tracked machines now, because the per square inch of tire loading and the compaction is much less.
Not something a homeowner needs to be concerned with but something I need to be concerned with because it impacts my bottom line.
Because of what I do with mine (tractors), I'm not a fan of too much weight front or rear because of the ground compaction issue.
That can become real issue and impact yields in damp or wet soils. Why Kubota and other builders offer tracked machines now, because the per square inch of tire loading and the compaction is much less.
Not something a homeowner needs to be concerned with but something I need to be concerned with because it impacts my bottom line.
Think about it.. the wheel weights are bolted to the wheel right so the wheel weights are supported by the wheel and tire, no axle load. Filled tires same same no axle load. NOW if you had the weights hanging off the axle sticking out in the air not being supported by anything, then yes it would load the axle.
Weight boxes hang off the frame, 3 point lift arms NOW you have weight transferred to the axle units. Remember these units are designed and built with these stresses in mind. Can something go south,,ya betya it can ,,, However the odds aint that high, remember if a man made it a man can break it. SO anything can happen at any time
Weight boxes hang off the frame, 3 point lift arms NOW you have weight transferred to the axle units. Remember these units are designed and built with these stresses in mind. Can something go south,,ya betya it can ,,, However the odds aint that high, remember if a man made it a man can break it. SO anything can happen at any time
My tractor is a BX1870 built in 2015. It has a front loader and a 48" belly mower on it. It can lift around 400 lbs in the bucket to its maximum lift height.
I have both a 48" three point hitch back blade and a 48" landscaping rake for it. I also have a carrier I can put on the three point hitch that can be loaded with weight. I can use any of them for ballast, but it is easier to maneuver around without an implement on the back.
Also, the building I keep the tractor in isn't long enough to accomodate the tractor with an implement on the back. I could take the implement off before I put the tractor away. However, I am an old man with some medical problems that make it difficult for me to get off and on the tractor. I have a set of Glenn's Easy Hitch do hinkys on the three point hitch that make it easy to put on and take off implements, but I still have to get off and on the tractor when I put one on or take one off. So wheel weight seemed to be the thing to do as I rarely use the blade or rake, but I do use the bucket a lot. I would guess that I wouldn't need to put more than 400 lbs. of weights on the wheels to offset the maximum bucket load.
I have both a 48" three point hitch back blade and a 48" landscaping rake for it. I also have a carrier I can put on the three point hitch that can be loaded with weight. I can use any of them for ballast, but it is easier to maneuver around without an implement on the back.
Also, the building I keep the tractor in isn't long enough to accomodate the tractor with an implement on the back. I could take the implement off before I put the tractor away. However, I am an old man with some medical problems that make it difficult for me to get off and on the tractor. I have a set of Glenn's Easy Hitch do hinkys on the three point hitch that make it easy to put on and take off implements, but I still have to get off and on the tractor when I put one on or take one off. So wheel weight seemed to be the thing to do as I rarely use the blade or rake, but I do use the bucket a lot. I would guess that I wouldn't need to put more than 400 lbs. of weights on the wheels to offset the maximum bucket load.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Bob - I get what you're after, and I have the same issue with length in my garage with box blade on. My BB and carry-all are sitting on my back patio where I can get to them if needed....a quick hitch does make attaching easier...
Just not sure you can physically get 200 pounds on each side....
Gosh, I wish I had better advice.
RBA50
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B2320, LA304 loader (B1658 QA), B2789 snowblower, RCK54-29B MMM, HF quick hitch
You need to remember that the purpose of counterweight is to reduce the load on the front axle, as well as preventing tipping forward. This is a weak point both from strength and stability. If the rear wheels lift, the tractor becomes unstable due to the sideways pivoting front axle.
You need the weight behind the rear wheels to counter act the tendency for the tractor to pivot forward around the front axle. Think of a teeter totter, with the front axle as the fulcrum. Adding weight behind the rear axle creates sort of a second fulcrum which reduces the load at the front axle. The diagram posted above illustrates this concept to some extent. The weight behind the rear axle tends to lift the front of the tractor, pivoting on the rear axle (probably the strongest point on the tractor).
There is at least one very long thread over on "tractor by net" about this concept. It's been a while since it has come up over there, but the thread is still available thru the search.
You need the weight behind the rear wheels to counter act the tendency for the tractor to pivot forward around the front axle. Think of a teeter totter, with the front axle as the fulcrum. Adding weight behind the rear axle creates sort of a second fulcrum which reduces the load at the front axle. The diagram posted above illustrates this concept to some extent. The weight behind the rear axle tends to lift the front of the tractor, pivoting on the rear axle (probably the strongest point on the tractor).
There is at least one very long thread over on "tractor by net" about this concept. It's been a while since it has come up over there, but the thread is still available thru the search.
I understand your issues.
I do not believe that Kubota offers rear wheel weights for the BX series. If they do, I expect that only a single weight can be added to each wheel.
To add significant weight to the wheels, you will almost certainly need to fabricate heavier weights. Doing so will not harm your tractor with or without liquid ballast but the result will still be considerably less effective than a rear mounted counterweight.
SDT
It’s been my experience, that the information provided here is usually more accurate and thought out than my dealer provides, just saying
armylifer
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BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
Try using bar bell weights. I use them and they work great. All of my tires are also loaded with windshield washer fluid. Here are two pictures of the bar bell weights.
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Newlyme
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M4900 w/loader, finish mower, tiller, auger, rake. BX24 w/loader, backhoe
I just saw on GovDeals, Kent State University, Ashtabula Campus has five or six hundred pounds for $75. Two inch ID hole. Throw them on a piece of schedule 80 pipe. Good way to repurpose.