Synthetic gun stock

bearbait

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Just wondering if any of you have cut down a synthetic gun stock. I have a Tikka T3 lite with the synthetic stock however in the colder weather and wearing heavier clothing I'm finding the lop too long for me. I've seen on youtube a video of a guy using a hacksaw but before I attempt this I would appreciate input from people who have already done this. At first I was thinking chop saw but I'm worried that the stock may get too hot while cutting. Also I think I would like to take close to an inch off, do you think this would be too much?
 
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skeets

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I maybe wrong but I think that most of the stocks are of a hollow design. Some have a foam filling that is supposed to stiffen the stock and help stop it from flexing. This might help

https://youtu.be/cQlbXV9FN1I?t=2
 

SidecarFlip

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I have a hunting bud that has short arms, he's not tall either and has all his stocks cut down. Problem with a synthetic stock is, it's hollow inside so if you get the LOP down, you'll need to fit a new recoil pad or a Limbsaver slip over recoil pad. Midway sells them for just about any stock.

I put one decellerator pad on a vintage Smith and Wesson branded Husky, Mauser small action 308 with wood furniture and typical 60's no padded butt pad. They work excellent.

I'd use a hacksaw as well, no chop saw, too much friction and heat.
 

bearbait

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Thanks skeets that does help. I've already foam filled mine but just a little nervous on how to go about shorting it. This is the second video I've watched where they've used a chop saw which to me seems like the easiest method. In the other video the guy showed how to make a gig in order to keep it square. Seems pretty simple but I may start with just a 1/2 inch first.
 

skeets

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Good idea, its a lot easier taking it off than putting it back on,,,lol :D
 

bearbait

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I have a hunting bud that has short arms, he's not tall either and has all his stocks cut down. Problem with a synthetic stock is, it's hollow inside so if you get the LOP down, you'll need to fit a new recoil pad or a Limbsaver slip over recoil pad. Midway sells them for just about any stock.

I put one decellerator pad on a vintage Smith and Wesson branded Husky, Mauser small action 308 with wood furniture and typical 60's no padded butt pad. They work excellent.

I'd use a hacksaw as well, no chop saw, too much friction and heat.
Yes that's what I was worried about with the chop saw and it's like you were reading my mind (short read) I was also looking at the LimbSaver pads.
 

armylifer

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I have a rifle that only sees use during cold weather. I took off 1.25 inches from the wood stock and re-fitted the butt pad back on. I did not have the skill to use a band saw so I went to a hobby wood shop on post and asked someone that did have the skill to do it. The bandsaw did an excellent job of cutting the stock without splintering the wood.
 

bearbait

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Thanks for the reply Joe. I have done 2 of my other guns with no problems however they were wood. I have never cut into a synthetic stock which is why I'm trying to gain as much knowledge before I take the plunge. Looks like I have plenty of time as the weather has been terrible, cold and non stop snow the last couple days.:eek:
 

armylifer

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As others have mentioned you probably want to use a cutting method that produces as little heat as possible on a synthetic stock. I am not sure that I would use a hacksaw though. Whatever tool that you decide to use, you want to be sure that it is clamped in a vise securely so that you can get a straight cut.
 

twomany

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What difference does heat make?

If you can't control the cutting action of a chop saw penetration rate or by pulling out of the cut and letting things cool off, that is on you. Use some cutting wax, or even drizzle soapy water over the cut.
If a plastic melt burr shows up on the far side, use a file to knock those suckers down.

Use a sharp blade and don't get concerned over a little plastic smell.

I might be critical of the absolutely straight cut of a chop saw. Make sure that is what the butt pad (and you the shooter) want and require.

In the same way, a hack saw is going to require a significant amount of post cut final shaping. I've never seen anyone get a "perfect" cut with a hack saw. (In plastic, you could use any hand saw meant for wood. There is nothing magic about a "hack saw".

Check the core of the stock well before making any cuts. Will be some solid material remaining to screw the butt plate to? The total job might need to include epoxy or bondo to glue in a hard point that will hold screws.
 

bcp

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For a screw-on recoil pad, you could glass bed a couple of T-nuts into the foam, wide end forward.

Bruce
 

SidecarFlip

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What difference does heat make?

If you can't control the cutting action of a chop saw penetration rate or by pulling out of the cut and letting things cool off, that is on you. Use some cutting wax, or even drizzle soapy water over the cut.
If a plastic melt burr shows up on the far side, use a file to knock those suckers down.

Use a sharp blade and don't get concerned over a little plastic smell.

I might be critical of the absolutely straight cut of a chop saw. Make sure that is what the butt pad (and you the shooter) want and require.

In the same way, a hack saw is going to require a significant amount of post cut final shaping. I've never seen anyone get a "perfect" cut with a hack saw. (In plastic, you could use any hand saw meant for wood. There is nothing magic about a "hack saw".

Check the core of the stock well before making any cuts. Will be some solid material remaining to screw the butt plate to? The total job might need to include epoxy or bondo to glue in a hard point that will hold screws.
I guess even a chainsaw would work.:D I prefer a hacksaw for the control and I've done a few myself.
 

bearbait

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What difference does heat make?

If you can't control the cutting action of a chop saw penetration rate or by pulling out of the cut and letting things cool off, that is on you. Use some cutting wax, or even drizzle soapy water over the cut.
If a plastic melt burr shows up on the far side, use a file to knock those suckers down.

Use a sharp blade and don't get concerned over a little plastic smell.

I might be critical of the absolutely straight cut of a chop saw. Make sure that is what the butt pad (and you the shooter) want and require.

In the same way, a hack saw is going to require a significant amount of post cut final shaping. I've never seen anyone get a "perfect" cut with a hack saw. (In plastic, you could use any hand saw meant for wood. There is nothing magic about a "hack saw".

Check the core of the stock well before making any cuts. Will be some solid material remaining to screw the butt plate to? The total job might need to include epoxy or bondo to glue in a hard point that will hold screws.

Twomany you have a way with words lol but I like the way you think.

I've decided and chop saw it is. I can get a new blade cheaper on amazon so

hopefully the PO strike will be over soon. Since I have to pull it apart I've also

ordered in a stainless steel recoil lug to replace the aluminum one. Thanks to

you all for your help.
 

bearbait

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Well it's done and thinking about it was the hardest part about the whole thing. I picked up a 90 tooth blade for the compound mitre saw and it sliced through no problem, nice smooth finish. All I have is a hand held belt sanded and I forgot to pick up a fine grit belt for it but got it close with what I have. I took 1" off and it fits much better, very happy with the out come. Thank you all for the help.
 

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armylifer

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I'm glad that it worked out like you wanted. Now go get some game!
 

skeets

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OH my is dat one dem black guns we keep hearing about? ;)
 

skeets

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I got dem, but I dont take them unless I have to,,,, they make me do some really silly things, and I didnt know, but I have been told I get really nasty when I do take them,, so I dont :D. And I didnt even see a deer yesterday ;)