Need Help Locating Oil Leak BX1800D

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SJSnelling

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May 21, 2015
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I've had no luck locating the source of an oil leak on the front of my BX 1800 (D722) engine. Based on the oil trails, it possibly is coming from a seal behind the pulley (please see photo). The fan's airflow has pushed leaked oil across most of the lower portion of the engine. Any/all suggestions greatly appreciated.

I'll have to reduce the size of my photo...sorry for the operator error!

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S

SJSnelling

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May 21, 2015
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After reading additional posts/threads, though not specific to my D722 engine, it appears I'll need to remove the gear case, and replace the crankshaft collar, O-ring, front oil seal, and gear case gasket...

I did locate a posting/thread regarding any specific warnings on gear case R&R.

Is this procedure fraught with potential pitfalls, or is it fairly straightforward? I'm attempting to save money on the repair, yet I prefer not to get to a point of having to take a box of parts to the dealership...
 
Daren Todd

Daren Todd

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You may be able to get the collar, and lip seal out with out removing the front cover. I replaced them on my z751a motor when I was inside the cover. I would first remove the pulley. Then try to get the collar out with a good sized pair of pliers. O'ring will be right behind the collar.



To remove the seal, use a seal puller. I'll edit and post a pic of one. Then tap the new seal in (spring side towards the oil). You can use a piece of pvc pipe that fits the seal face to tap the new one in. Or something else of similar size that will fit over the shaft. Make sure it's good and square with the edges. Make sure the spring is still in place after tapping the seal in. Then grease the lip that rides on the collar. Assembly lube, or lithium grease work really well. Install the collar and o'ring. Then install the pully.



It's a pretty common practice to not remove the gear case cover unless you have too. It's actually an extra step, that adds quite a bit of time to the job.


 
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Dave_eng

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You can buy fluorescent dye leak detection kits for a reasonable price these days. You add a dye pack to the oil and then use a special flashlight to watch for traces of glowing dye. There are dye packs for cooling systems as well. I have had great luck finding the source of a leak amid a lot of crud from a long time leak.
http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Products-TP34000601-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B000JFHNTM

This ebay listing gives you and idea of cost. You need the special light and goggles.

Most auto parts stores sell the kits.

Air conditioning types have used these for years.

Dave M7040
 
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SJSnelling

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Thanks Daren and Dave...

New front crank seal is installed (without having to remove the gear case/cover). There wasn't sufficient room to use my puller (photo), so I used a 90 degree pick, small screwdriver, and ball-peen hammer. Installation included some of what Daren had written (PVC pipe). Note: spring side facing inwards.

Dave, how I wished I had used dye prior to pulling the engine...

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North Idaho Wolfman

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Really hope you have not put it back together!
The is a second "seal" O-ring that you should replace as it will also let oil leak out of the same area.

 

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SJSnelling

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May 21, 2015
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I did pull the collar and O-ring to inspect, and grease the latter prior to assembly. I suspected I would have been better off picking up a new O-ring while at the dealership...they didn't steer me in that direction. :confused:

Engine is back in the tractor, and about a 1/2 hour away from trying it. 91 degrees and sweating like...a few beers probably aren't offsetting the bottles of water I'm consuming. ;)

At least if I have to pull the engine again, it will go faster than this time.
 
S

SJSnelling

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May 21, 2015
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N. Charlestown, NH, USA
Good and bad...

Ran the tractor for about one hour, mowing most of the time. No oil leaks. However, I screwed up somewhere along the assembly process.

Excessive vibration at lower RPMs, and smooth during full throttle. I suspect I either installed the flywheel off from where it was set (I marked it improperly), or I need to torque the four engine mounts at something other than "tight."

Fix one thing, create another...

Thanks for the help!
 
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Shadow

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It sounds like the pulley wasn't put back on in the same spot. They USUALLY have 2 dots on the pulley, and one dot on on the crank to make sure its in the correct position, but not always. You'll have to look and see, and I wouldn't run it until you pull the bolt off and inspect.
 
S

SJSnelling

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May 21, 2015
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N. Charlestown, NH, USA
Shadow said:
It sounds like the pulley wasn't put back on in the same spot. They USUALLY have 2 dots on the pulley, and one dot on on the crank to make sure its in the correct position, but not always. You'll have to look and see, and I wouldn't run it until you pull the bolt off and inspect.
Click to expand...
You're correct on the stamped "dots" I missed. I should have paid more attention to the illustration/text in the workshop/maintenance manual! Fan drive pulley:
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