Cold Starting Starting L 3130 Help

Phil · Nov 23, 2009

After watching Vic, "Cold Weather Starting Tips" video, I know there is something wrong with the starting system on the L 3130.
1: Service performed. All filters changed (oil,fuel, hydraulic). Battery terminal cleaned and secured. Battery ground strap removed from chassis cleaned and secured. The battery I think, is the original one. Although the tractor starts fine, the starter seems lazy to me, since the tractor was purchased used I have no idea if this is normal starter speed for this model.

2: Glow Plugs and Cold Weather Starting. The owners manual states: Turn the key to "ON" ( glow plugs) and keep it there until the glow plug indicator goes off. If the engine fails to start after 10 seconds, turn off the key for 30 seconds. Repeat the steps."
Last week the temperature was -8 Celsius (17 F) not cold by any means. Using the owners manual procedure I turned the key on. The glow plug indicator stays on for approx. 10 seconds. The engine did not start on the 1st attempt, nor on the 2 but the 3, with cranking speed noticeably slower, the engine started on one cylinder, then 2 finally 3.
Is there a way to increase the the glow plug "ON" time to 60 seconds ??

3: Also in Vic video he mentioned "To preheat the glow plugs we turn the ignition key counter-clockwise" There is no counter-clockwise position on the L 3130.
Is the ignition key switch defective ??

There is no power or shelter yet where the tractor stays on the country property.
Any tips or advice for cold weather starts would be appreciated.

eserv · Nov 23, 2009

Hi Phil
If your battery is the original one it could well be getting weak, which would explain all of your symptoms. You should get it load tested. It sounds like it wouldn't hurt to get those glow plugs tested too. If one of them was burned out your tractor would work like this too. There is no way to adjust the glow plug timer, but if a glow plug isn't working it will have too short a time interval. Your tractor doesn't have a "glow position" on the ignition switch so your switch is OK.
Ed

eserv · Nov 23, 2009

Hi
All of smallandmighty's suggestions are good, don't be looking for a decompressor on your L3130 though! It doesn't have one!
Ed

Ob1kubota · Nov 23, 2009

Hello Phil

I bet you get a chuckle

out of guys from the deep South trying to help you start your Tractor in the North but here goes another suggestion. With your tractor stored out in the open you are going to have to figure a way to keep your battery on a trickel charger between cranks. I have seen batteries freeze when they sulphate and the specific gravity goes below 1.20 at only 20 degrees F in the Western Maryland mountains [3,200 feet above sea level] Garrett Co. Make sure your battery is in top shape under these conditions. Like Ed said get it load tested at any auto parts store close to your Farm.

Second, if you don't have a multimeter get one to check your glow plug circuit out for voltage ( check your fuse first ). Get a buddy to hold the key in the ignition on position ( do not crank ) while the easy checker cycles making sure the glow plugs are receiving current flow. Test each glow plug for continunity with red lead on the glow plug terminal with the black lead to ground on the VDC scale. Note any difference from one plug to the next for additional troubleshooting information if you see a large voltage drop from 1-2-3 cylinders.

Third you need to at least break the wind on your tractor, cover the exhaust stack with a bucket and mix K1 with #2 diesel, (half and half) once the temperature drops and stays below 32 F or 0 degrees C. This blend better serves auto ignition for lower/cold compression starts. Finally Consider a block heater for your water jacket making sure the antifreeze mixture is fresh and good to 32 below zero.

Fourth and most expensive option is build a barn and heat the tractor

Mr. K · Nov 23, 2009

Gents, I can sense some tension in the air so I am here to dispel it. It is pretty easy going around here so I'm sure Ob1's comments were light hearted.

There is more than one way to diagnose and solve a problem and what makes this site great is that we respect and value everyone's input, whether they are working on Kubota equipment everyday or if they are experienced do-it-yourself-ers. If it's orange and you know something about it, share it.

It's all about helping out your fellow man/woman. A willingness to help out others is what gets my respect. Everyone that posted responses to Phil's original question are doing just that - helping out!

Phil · Nov 25, 2009

First of all thanks for the replys to my post.
The tractor is an 05 with about 550 hrs.
Load tested the battery, tested OK.
Glow plug, fuse OK.
Glow plug voltage with the wire disconnected at the glow plugs, 12.25 vdc.
Reconnected the wire to the glow plugs and with the key on,
Glow plug 1, 10.87 vdc.
Glow plug 2, 10.85 vdc.
Glow plug 3, 10.80 vdc.
The ohm test show continuity on all glow plugs with about 1 ohm resistance for all.
I removed the first glow plug (easily accessible) and when connected to the battery, glowed up very quickly.
So far have I not found anything inappropriate or out of place.
Any other suggestions ??

eserv · Nov 25, 2009

You did take the strap that connects the glow plugs together off to test each glow plug individually did you? If you didn't you could have one burnt out.
Ed

Phil · Nov 25, 2009

About local diesel fuel. It gets very cold here in Northern Ontario, from mid December to March the temperature overnight is often in the -20 to -30 degrees C., the diesel here locally is winter type fuel #1 (K1) which I purchase at the local truck stop.

Phil · Nov 25, 2009

I removed the strap from the first and second glow plug, which are accessible, gently lifted the strap from first and second glow plugs to isolate the third one, which is not accessible, for the test. To remove the 2 and 3 glow plug for actual on battery test would require removing the hood, fuel tank and the fire wall. Since the ohm test showed the same resistance on all ... unless you think it necessary to remove the second and third one to do an on battery test, just so there is no doubt about the ohm test.

eserv · Nov 25, 2009

No I don't think it's necessary to remove the glow plugs completely. If you isolated each on and resistance tested them that should be sufficient.
What oil do you have in that engine?
Ed

Ob1kubota · Nov 26, 2009

Phil when you do get her fired up does the tractor have good power? Check your air cleaner element, fuel filter, at those temperatures your engine oil Wt. is critical and I'd suggest using the Super UDT in your transmission. Running straight K1 should flash and fire if its getting to the cylinders. At this point in your testing, I'd suspect moisture in the fuel blocking flow or intake air restriction or a combination of the two. You went above and beyond to check the glow plugs good job bud IMHO

Phil · Nov 27, 2009

The oil is 15W40 and a new filter installed.
The air filter inner and outer are new.
Super UDT ??, however all filters are Kubota Brand.
The tractor has impressive horse power for its size does not lack for power under load. Runs extremely well when all 3 cylinders are making power.

While checking the fuse panel for the glow plug voltage and continuity, I noticed there seems to be some sort of residue of some kind on the fuses blades and in the fuse panel. (I'm guessing, this is the residue from degrease agent used in a high pressure washer.) I cleaned the fuses and fuse panel with an electrical contact cleaner and added dielectric paste to the fuse blades, I also did the same to the power wire that runs parallel to the positive battery cable to the starter. After cleaning the push-on connectors on the battery cable wire and the starter, the starter seems to be running at speed.

The last problem.
I brought the tractor home for repair and is in my garage now. The tractor, (in a heated garage), still starts on 1 cylinder, then 2, and finally 3, all the while belching black smoke from the exhaust pipe. It only did it for a about 60 to 90 seconds. A cold start the next day produces the same 1, 2, 3 cylinder run with accompanying belch of black smoke. When all the cylinders are firing no more black smoke.
Restarting the engine after it's warm, it purrs like a well fed kitten with no smoke of ant kind.

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions ??

joekimtkd · Nov 27, 2009

I think it is 15W40 diesel oil does that.
and you said, once engine is warmed up, no problem...!

I read in this post some where or Youtube... some one had 15W40 in it and in winter time had a problem to starting and too much vibration. so changed to 10W30, and no more trouble.

Even myself I had 15W40 in it. and a bit of chilly weather engine vibrates a bit until warms up. so I changed to 10W30 and now seems much better.

I hope you fix your tractor quick enough.
Good luck.

Joe.

eserv · Nov 28, 2009

These tractors are normally good starters and I think should start OK at -7 with 15w40 but Joe is right, 15w40 is too heavy for winter use. You should use a 5w or even 0w oil if the temp remains below freezing. remember, the oil pump on these engines is on the front of the crankshaft, ABOVE the oil. It has to draw negative pressure to get the oil from the pan, and is slower doing it if the oil is thick. Your engine will last longer with 5w30 in it year round than it will with 15w40. These are naturally aspirated low clearance engines and do not require thick oil to lubricate them. Use the best oil you can afford though!
Ed

Phil · Dec 3, 2009

Thanks for your suggestions.
Did I mention that the tractor starts like this in a heated garage ?
Is it possible that there is an injector problem ?
Is there such a thing as "injector leak-down" ?
Should I remove the injectors for inspection ?
Does the injector Gasket and the Heat Seal have to be replaced if the injector is removed from the engine ?
Does anyone have the injector torque spec., for the L 3130 ?

Phil · Sep 3, 2010

Hi Guys;
It's been a busy summer and have had very little time to post.
Just an update on my cold starting problem. Initially tried fuel injector cleaner to see if it would help with the engine starting on 1 cylinder, then 2, and finally 3, all the while belching black smoke from the exhaust pipe but no improvement.
I recently replaced all three injectors and now the engine starts all three cylinders at the same time no more excessive black smoke.

Also replace the original 5 year battery 490 cc amp with a new 800 cc amp, the largest one that would fit the tractor.
Done all service required, all set for long cold winter.
Thanks for all you helpful suggestions and comments.

Bulldog · Sep 3, 2010

Hi Phil, I was looking thru this post and wandering why I had never read any of it before and then went back to the original post date and figured it out. I would say that was a good move on your part changing the battery. My M 9000 battery played out on me at the first of the year and I went with a 1125cca Optima in mine. It has done a great job so far.

You asked for suggestions and I have one for you. In the cold climate that you live in I suggest using Amsoil 5w30 Heavy Duty Diesel oil in your engine. The pour point on this oil is -56F and it would really help to free your engine up on cold starts. I started my L 3000 up this past winter at -11F and didn't use glow plugs. It started almost as good at that temp as it does in the summer. This was on standard off road fuel to. Even as hot as it gets down here it doesn't get warm enough to require a 40w oil. I have never ran anything heavier than a 30w in my tractors. I don't know what kind of oil you use but you need synthetics bad in that kind of climate.

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Cold Starting Starting L 3130 Help

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