B2150HST - Loud Clank/Clunk when engine turned off

NorCalOrange · Mar 24, 2019

Hi,

I have a B2150hst 4wd with only 650 hours. When the engine is turned off a loud clunk, sometimes 3 or 4, occur. I originally thought it was coming from the bottom end of the engine. After listening closer it sounds like its from behind the engine - trans or pto or ? Although I service and repair my own cars and motorcycles, this tractor is new to me.

The Knock/clunk can be heard at end of the videos when engine is turned off. If you hear any other interesting or not normal noises, please share your thoughts.

Ok, To add url links I need to make 5 or more posts. The youtube videos are easily found by googling "Kubota B2150HST - Knock/clunk 1" and "Kubota B2150HST - Knock/clunk 2".

Also, I plan on adjusting the valves. If someone knows the specs for cold please share.

Thank you.

motionclone · Mar 24, 2019

I put your videos up for you since you dont have enough posts, hope you get some help with the issue.

Rosher18 · Mar 24, 2019

That sounds a lot like the crankshaft stopping its rotation and bouncing back and forth between compression cycles of the cylinders that are on that stroke. It's the same sound my L185DT makes (2 cylinder), but mine doesn't have the clank sound, it's more of a wiggle. Maybe an accessory pulley or something is loose and rattles back and forth during that final crank motion.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

NorCalOrange · Mar 24, 2019

Thank you motionclone for posting the vids.

Rosher18 said:
That sounds a lot like the crankshaft stopping its rotation and bouncing back and forth between compression cycles of the cylinders that are on that stroke. It's the same sound my L185DT makes (2 cylinder), but mine doesn't have the clank sound, it's more of a wiggle. Maybe an accessory pulley or something is loose and rattles back and forth during that final crank motion.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

The fan/alternator belt is very, very lose. But the sound is not coming from the front. Will be changing the fluids this week and tightening the belt is on the list of things to do.

SidecarFlip · Mar 24, 2019

Both my M's make the same sound and always have. I ignore it. I too believe it's the crankshaft rocking back and forth but I too could be wrong. Motor sound good to me. Mine isn't as loud as yours is but then I have sound insulated cabs.

North Idaho Wolfman · Mar 24, 2019

The noise is a bad joint in the Propeller shaft, it's a joint with three or four ball bearings in it.

If you want to confirm that is the noise, hold down the clutch pedal start it and holding the pedal shut it off no noise propeller shaft joint, if there is still noise clutch disk or pressure plate.

With 650 Hours on the engine and it running good, stay out of it, it doesn't need the valves adjusted, they rarely ever do.

Propeller shaft joint:

NorCalOrange · Mar 25, 2019

North Idaho Wolfman said:
The noise is a bad joint in the Propeller shaft, it's a joint with three or four ball bearings in it.

If you want to confirm that is the noise, hold down the clutch pedal start it and holding the pedal shut it off no noise propeller shaft joint, if there is still noise clutch disk or pressure plate.

With 650 Hours on the engine and it running good, stay out of it, it doesn't need the valves adjusted, they rarely ever do.

Propeller shaft joint:

Will try the test as you recommend. I Found the part numbers and diagrams. I imagine to drive it like this is a bad and dangerous idea? I live in the hills with some steep slopes.

Is their an online resource for servicing the trans? Is it possible to verify this is the issue by checking for play in the ball joint assy before tearing down the trans?

Update: I found out that the original owner says it has been making the clunk sound for many years. He can not remember if it made the clunk since new but is sure it has been making it for several hundred hours. Or, many years given the tractor only has 650 hours.

North Idaho Wolfman · Mar 25, 2019

NorCalOrange said:
Will try the test as you recommend. I Found the part numbers and diagrams. I imagine to drive it like this is a bad and dangerous idea? I live in the hills with some steep slopes.

Is their an online resource for servicing the trans? Is it possible to verify this is the issue by checking for play in the ball joint assy before tearing down the trans?

The drive joint is before the transmission, you won't need to go into the transmission.

I think you can either look underneath and see the joint or you might be able to see it by pulling this cover.

Check for slop in the joint or a missing roll pin on the rear, that is very common and over time will wear the coupling splines, either is the same fix, a new joint.

keep the clutch pedal depressed when checking for slop, that will remove the motor resistance.

Kubotabooks.com has the WSM (aka Work Shop Manual, aka service manual) for free, just go to Tractor Owners Manuals, fourth one down.

NorCalOrange · Mar 25, 2019

I can not access Kubotabooks.com for some reason. It gives me an error code. I tried two different browsers and same thing happens.

I am able to access the propeller ball joint by removing the access panel above it. Removed the b-joint pin to see of it would slip off the shaft. And of course, it would not.

I made two vids. One to show the play/slop in the ball joint. The other to show how much the ball joint slides on the shaft with the pin removed.

The vids are with the clutch engaged, clutch pedal not pressed. The shaft that does not move, top half of screen, goes into the clutch housing. Is this play/slop excessive?

Can this be driven safely like this? Does the tractor need to be split apart to replace propeller ball joint?

Also, the front drive shaft u-joints are worn. Is their cross reference for u-joints? At $60 a piece their must be an alternative. Kubota: JOINT, Part # 66591-56320

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iIgSD5UbUw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCmlgxi46M4

North Idaho Wolfman · Mar 25, 2019

Yes the Joint is bad, the rotational slop is the issue, and the noise your hearing.

D2Cat · Mar 25, 2019

You will have to separate the tractor to get the propeller shaft to move. It's stuck in the pilot bearing on the back of the crankshaft.

NorCalOrange · Mar 25, 2019

D2Cat said:
You will have to separate the tractor to get the propeller shaft to move. It's stuck in the pilot bearing on the back of the crankshaft.

Does the propeller shaft typically slide forward enough to remove the ball joint? Only need ~3/4 inch. I did not try to slide the propeller shaft forward with any force or leverage. Only slid the ball joint back and forth as shown in the vid.

If I am understanding everything correctly, it makes sense their will be some resistance as the propeller shaft goes through the clutch disk splines.

North Idaho Wolfman · Mar 25, 2019

No the shaft does not slide enough forward to remove the joint, you have to split the tractor to replace the joint.
And while you're in there prepare for a clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing replacement too.

Because I can tell you this, there is very little chance that that tractor has 650 hours on it with that much wear in that joint.

I emailed you a link to download the WSM.

SidecarFlip · Mar 26, 2019

Total hours shown on an hourmeter on a used tractor.... isn't that one of the 4 greatest lies?

D2Cat · Mar 26, 2019

NorCalOrange, it's not a real tough job. If you enjoy mechanical things (especially ones that work correctly) you'll feel good about the repair because you'll know your tractor better and know what is NOT going to fail for a LONG time.

Here's some pictures I found of a B7100 I did the same thing to. In the unfocused picture is the joint. It was actually welded to the input shaft to the transmission. I was going to have to disassemble the whole thing to get it right. I ended up with a dremel tool with a 5/8" carbide disc and a die grinder and a few hours, and got it free (because it was a terrible weld)!

I ended up replacing the bushing in the bell housing and the drive shaft because of extreme wear on all the parts.

NorCalOrange · Mar 26, 2019

North Idaho Wolfman said:
No the shaft does not slide enough forward to remove the joint, you have to split the tractor to replace the joint.
And while you're in there prepare for a clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing replacement too.

Because I can tell you this, there is very little chance that that tractor has 650 hours on it with that much wear in that joint.

I emailed you a link to download the WSM.

Thank you very much for the email.

Agreed, the 650 hours does not add up to a bad propeller bearing and a loose front axle drive shaft u joint... I bought this from a tractor dealer over the internet, out of state. The body and metals/frame look great, no rust. Paint everywhere looks great. Deceiving I guess...

SidecarFlip said:
Total hours shown on an hourmeter on a used tractor.... isn't that one of the 4 greatest lies?

Yeah, buyer beware.

D2Cat said:
NorCalOrange, it's not a real tough job. If you enjoy mechanical things (especially ones that work correctly) you'll feel good about the repair because you'll know your tractor better and know what is NOT going to fail for a LONG time.

Here's some pictures I found of a B7100 I did the same thing to. In the unfocused picture is the joint. It was actually welded to the input shaft to the transmission. I was going to have to disassemble the whole thing to get it right. I ended up with a dremel tool with a 5/8" carbide disc and a die grinder and a few hours, and got it free (because it was a terrible weld)!

I ended up replacing the bushing in the bell housing and the drive shaft because of extreme wear on all the parts.

Did you do this alone? Using only jack stands, no engine hoist or other support? I will have to do everything myself in the barn, dirt floor and no upper support structure to lift anything.

NorCalOrange · Mar 26, 2019

My 4am crazy idea.

I have been thinking about how Kubota sells the ball joint in pieces, disassembled, which made me think why would they do that. After more thought, I wondered if its because the ball joint is to be installed in pieces without tearing down anything else. ie separating tractor

In other words, the repair sequence would go something like this:

Remove inspection window
Remove pin from ball joint
Remove C-Clip from ball joint
Slide transmission half of ball joint back
Remove pin from clutch side of ball joint
Slide and remove both ball joint pieces off of shafts

The install would be the reverse but with installing the ball bearings with grease, the seal, washers and then c-clip.

Not a lot of room to do this but I "think" its possible?

North Idaho Wolfman · Mar 26, 2019

NorCalOrange said:
My 4am crazy idea.

I have been thinking about how Kubota sells the ball joint in pieces, disassembled, which made me think why would they do that. After more thought, I wondered if its because the ball joint is to be installed in pieces without tearing down anything else. ie separating tractor

In other words, the repair sequence would go something like this:

Remove inspection window
Remove pin from ball joint
Remove C-Clip from ball joint
Slide transmission half of ball joint back
Remove pin from clutch side of ball joint
Slide and remove both ball joint pieces off of shafts

The install would be the reverse but with installing the ball bearings with grease, the seal, washers and then c-clip.

Not a lot of room to do this but I "think" its possible?

When several people that have worked on quite a few of these tell you you have to split it, don't try and reinvent the wheel, just roll with it.

But hey be my guest, if you can get it apart and back together without splitting it, you'll be the first!

Splitting these tractors is easy and yes can be by yourself.
I have worked on many of these tractors without the aid of a concrete floor.

Get yourself 3 pieces of 1/2 OSB or Plywood ( OSB is cheaper) and 7 12' 2 x 4's. lay the 2 x 4's down and screw the OSB to the grid of 2x4's (2 length wise, 1 width wise on the end ) this will give you a deck of 8' x 12' position the tractor to the rear of the deck and block the back tires so they don't move, you will be rolling the front forward when you split it.

Another option is get ahold of 8 pallets of the same size and screw the plywood down to those, they also give a nice strong flat surface to work on.

I also suggest painting the Plywood to help with cleanup of hydraulic fluid so you can work easier.

D2Cat · Mar 26, 2019

NorCalOrange said:
Thank you very much for the email.

Did you do this alone? Using only jack stands, no engine hoist or other support? I will have to do everything myself in the barn, dirt floor and no upper support structure to lift anything.

I did that work by myself on the floor of my garage. I blocked the rear tires after I had separated the tractor, then lifted the front and blocked it up so I had elbow room. I may have had a safety chain attached to a rafter above also. I usually use a piece of cardboard instead of any kind of a creeper. I like to be able to slide easily and I prefer all the wiggle room I can get. For me, it's also easier to stand up from a solid floor, than something that might roll!

I have separated a Deutz 6206 in a barn with a rock floor. Pretty much just the way North Idaho Wolfman described. Have you some sheeting that allows a jack to roll easily. Always block the back wheel, front and back. Always use hard wood blocks stacked two side by side then two 90deg to those side by side to whatever height you need. Then you have no concern about something heavy falling.

Here's a couple of pictures. In the second picture you can see the "floor" of the barn! The last picture is an easy way to keep track of bolts. I just happened to have a piece of Styrofoam in the barn.

Be sure to put blocks of wood on the front axle between the frame on both sides so the engine doesn't flop to a side when you finally separate it.

Matt81150 · Oct 9, 2021

North Idaho Wolfman said:
The noise is a bad joint in the Propeller shaft, it's a joint with three or four ball bearings in it.

If you want to confirm that is the noise, hold down the clutch pedal start it and holding the pedal shut it off no noise propeller shaft joint, if there is still noise clutch disk or pressure plate.

With 650 Hours on the engine and it running good, stay out of it, it doesn't need the valves adjusted, they rarely ever do.

Propeller shaft joint:

Question: Thanks for the parts diagram. I have the same problem (B2150D-4WD) and want to change out the prop-shaft ball joint. My question is, do you have to split the engine / transmission to get access to change this joint? I had a quick look today and access from below is very limited. Surely, Kubota would have engineered it to be changed without completely splitting the machine…..wouldn’t they? Any thoughts / information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

B2150HST - Loud Clank/Clunk when engine turned off

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