L1500 - Oil Drain Plug is Rounded and Stuck

Profnohair · Nov 3, 2011

I tried to change the oil in the L1500 today and besides having the wrong filter, the oil drain plug is rounded off and stuck tight. I tried to use vice grips to no avail. I cannot tell if the head of the bolt is screwed into the round 1/8" thick metal above it, or if the 1/8" is part of the bolt that screws into the oil pan itself. I can grip the 1/8" with a pipe wrench but I didn't want to turn it fearing it was part of the oil pan and would break off the weld.

Can one of you Kabota seasoned guys let me know if I am safe gripping the 1/8" piece and turning it.

Also, I found on this site what I thought was the correct part number for the canister oil filter (NAPA 51302). I purchased it and found that this filter is about an inch too long for the application. Does anyone know of a crossover number for the canister filter that can be purchased locally?

Thanks,

Profnohair

birddogger · Nov 3, 2011

I believe that little bit of lip is 1/2 washer, 1/2 plug.

These plugs are a sore point for me. Some people think they must be as tight as a lug nut or they'll fall out or something....
nevermind, I'll let it go at that.

Good luck.

Kubota Newbie · Nov 4, 2011

Vise-grips! (good ones) and then a new oil plug.

meanjean · Nov 4, 2011

Crank on it!

stepdoctor · Nov 4, 2011

If you have a welder, tack a piece of flat stock or a 3 inch bolt to the plug to give you some leverage to remove it.

Profnohair · Nov 4, 2011

stepdoctor said:
If you have a welder, tack a piece of flat stock or a 3 inch bolt to the plug to give you some leverage to remove it.

Good idea but unfortunately, no welder.

Profnohair

Eric McCarthy · Nov 4, 2011

Word on the streets from Capatain Candle Wax, aka Aquaforce. Heat the nut up with a torce and jam a wax candle on it and you should be able to turn the nut loose freely by hand!

E/S · Nov 4, 2011

If all else fails I have used a cold chisel and Carefully used it to brake it loose.

E/S

Profnohair · Nov 4, 2011

Eric McCarthy said:
Word on the streets from Capatain Candle Wax, aka Aquaforce. Heat the nut up with a torce and jam a wax candle on it and you should be able to turn the nut loose freely by hand!

I thought about heat but never knew about the candlewax. I will give it a try and report back. It may be a while before I get back to trying.

Profnohair · Nov 4, 2011

Service Dept Vic said:
Correct canister filter is NAPA# 7030, or Kubota part # 15108-32080.

Not sure were that other incorrect part number came from, let me know so I can edit the post and clean that error up.

It is not in a post, it is in an article. On the left side of the article section, it has a section called "Part Numbers - Oil Filters".

Under L1500 it states the following apparently incorrect (at least on my L1500 which has a canister filter) filter numbers:

L1500 750 15213-32090 1342 B178 51342 PH2870A

Thanks for maintaining a great site.

Good thing you don't charge by the hour to use the site. I would be broke with the time I spend on here since obtaining my Kubota.

Profnohair

Eric McCarthy · Nov 5, 2011

Another member Aquaforce had mentioned a while back that if you heat the aera with a torch, even a simple propaine torch and jam a wax candle on there it should loosen up freely by hand. Other members tried his trick and raved how well it worked.

So accordingly we nick named him Captain Candle Wax!

Profnohair · Nov 5, 2011

Eric McCarthy said:
Another member Aquaforce had mentioned a while back that if you heat the aera with a torch, even a simple propaine torch and jam a wax candle on there it should loosen up freely by hand. Other members tried his trick and raved how well it worked.

So accordingly we nick named him Captain Candle Wax!

I am going to try this as soon as I get the the correct cannister oil filter in my hands for which I now have the correct part number.

Will report back if he is worthy of the title or not.

Dennis · Nov 6, 2011

Eric McCarthy said:
Another member Aquaforce had mentioned a while back that if you heat the aera with a torch, even a simple propaine torch and jam a wax candle on there it should loosen up freely by hand. Other members tried his trick and raved how well it worked.

So accordingly we nick named him Captain Candle Wax!

I don't get it. What is the purpose of the wax?

Eric McCarthy · Nov 6, 2011

The hot wax works itself down into the threads creating a slick surface. Luberacation basically.

Dennis · Nov 7, 2011

Neat! Thank you

Freakingstang · Nov 7, 2011

Why don't you try a bolt out set or removers? They are about 20 bucks at sears and have spiraled teeth specifically meant for rounded nuts and bolts. They pay for themselves the first time you use them http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-Bolt-Out-Damaged-Bolt-Nut-Remover-Set-reviews

GWD · Nov 7, 2011

Another option is to file down the bolt faces to the next smaller socket size. Sometimes a little can be taken off a metric to make it standard.

An impact wrench can be your friend as well although it is not recommended for general work.

It is even possible to file two sides flat and use a spanner wrench.

A friend with a welder could really be a help. Welding a new nut on the end of the damaged bolt is easy and works every time. A professional could do it but might be a bit pricey. No harm in asking a pro what the charge might be.

Eric McCarthy · Nov 7, 2011

I cant wait to find out if the wax helped another satisfied customer!

Profnohair · Nov 7, 2011

Freakingstang said:
Why don't you try a bolt out set or removers? They are about 20 bucks at sears and have spiraled teeth specifically meant for rounded nuts and bolts. They pay for themselves the first time you use them http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-Bolt-Out-Damaged-Bolt-Nut-Remover-Set-reviews

Great idea but I am pretty sure it is larger than the 3/4" limit that the kit has.

Profnohair

Profnohair · Nov 7, 2011

GWD said:
Another option is to file down the bolt faces to the next smaller socket size. Sometimes a little can be taken off a metric to make it standard.

An impact wrench can be your friend as well although it is not recommended for general work.

It is even possible to file two sides flat and use a spanner wrench.

A friend with a welder could really be a help. Welding a new nut on the end of the damaged bolt is easy and works every time. A professional could do it but might be a bit pricey. No harm in asking a pro what the charge might be.

My neighbor of the land has volunteered to weld a bolt to it as soon as I am able to get it to him. Unfortunately, I don't know when I will be able to get it to him as I have to round up a trailer and he is 45 miles away. I am more concerned with getting my son moved onto the land. (Building pump house, getting treatment plant up and running, etc.)

I am going to try the heat and wax first though.

Profnohair

L1500 - Oil Drain Plug is Rounded and Stuck

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