With winter coming I plan to use the FEL of my B2301 for snow removal on a paved driveway and my neighbors gravel driveway. The driveways are about 80 yards long and for the most part are flat except a small up sweep at the road. I have R4 industrial tires that are not filled at the moment and I was wondering what the best option would be for the most traction while clearing snow. My biggest reservation on filling the tires is the extra weight in the spring and fall when the ground is still soft and I need to mow, I don't want to leave ruts in the yard. Does anyone with a similar setup have an opinion on the matter?
Loaded tires vs ballast box vs neither
- Thread starter jgregory2010
- Start date
I have a B2920 which is essentially the same as your 2301. I use the loader and a back blade to clear snow. I also have the R4 tires, and found a decent improvement by loading the rear tires. Ballast box would do the same thing, but you can't run a rear blade. It also depends on the amount of snow you want to move. 6" or less and you won't need any weight. More than that, and you can start to spin out even in 4x4. That is especially true with a blade.
I drive on turf all spring and summer and find the B series does minimal damage to the ground...it just isn't heavy enough to do that.
I drive on turf all spring and summer and find the B series does minimal damage to the ground...it just isn't heavy enough to do that.
dirtydeed
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B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
If the drives are relatively flat, you shouldn't really need extra weight. I second troverman's suggestions. A rear blade is hard to beat for both a paved and gravel drive. You can run a rear blade in reverse on a gravel drive. Doing so will remove the snow, but leave the stone.
Additionally, the rear blade can be a year round tool and costs way less than any blower setup. It will clear snow much faster than using the loader. You keep the loader on to handle the really deep stuff/drifts.
Additionally, the rear blade can be a year round tool and costs way less than any blower setup. It will clear snow much faster than using the loader. You keep the loader on to handle the really deep stuff/drifts.
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A ballast box is far more effective as a FEL counterweight than is liquid ballast. Tire chains are considerably better than either or both for snow work.
You will not be able to move much snow with a FEL/bucket without some added weight if you plan to lift the bucket. A FEL with front plow operated in float mode will work better and may be OK on level ground.
SDT
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shootem604
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L245DT with Kubota (Arps Model 22) FEL and Kubota B/L4520B (Woods 650) BH
Filling your rear tires with winter grade washer fluid is an easy and effective option too. I recently filled the tires on my dad's and he's much happier with the stability of the tractor now when working with the FEL.
I have the L series and don’t have any liquid in the tires either because of mowing. Just have plenty of weight on the 3pt This adds ballast and balance as it will take some of the weight off the front axle and add to the rear since it is behind the rear tires Loading the rear tires doesn’t provide any counter balance Hope this makes sense.
I filled my tires on my 2650 a few weeks ago and use it to mow my new lawn. It's new grass and not too well established yet (more dirt showing than grass) and I've mowed shortly after rain and it was a touch wet, but I didn't have any issues with tearing up the lawn. I do take it easy making sharp turns just to be safe, but I'm confident I won't have any issues, especially if the ground is dry. I feel it will only get better as the grass fills in and I get better turf. I made a quick video of filling the tires with windshield washer fluid if your interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5248tKNIs4
I also have a skid loader (tires are not filled) and that thing tears up the ground so much worse on dry ground than the Kubota does on moist ground.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5248tKNIs4
I also have a skid loader (tires are not filled) and that thing tears up the ground so much worse on dry ground than the Kubota does on moist ground.
The owners manual for an FEL highly recommends using ballast on the three point hitch. Loading the rear tires does not replace the function of ballast. Filling the rear tires should not add enough weight to damage grass and does help with stability but hopefully you'll never have to take the rear wheels off for any reason...they'll be too heavy.
I'd suggest not filling the rears and add ballast to the 3 point whether its an implement or a ballast box...+/- 500 total pounds.
I'd suggest not filling the rears and add ballast to the 3 point whether its an implement or a ballast box...+/- 500 total pounds.
My small Ford has R1's and no ballast, and unfilled tires. It is used as a lawn mower (RFM) for rough, wet or other things I don't run my L3200 in. It does an exceptional job on snow with a rear blade. It handles sidehills, wet grass, snow, and mud well.
My L3200 has filled rears. There's usually something on the 3PH - mower in Summer, blower in Winter, or another implement of some sort. Even with the filled rears I like to have something hanging on the hitch for any serious FEL lifting like dirt or crushed stone, or lifting heavy pieces of equipment.
For 10 years I used a rear blade and FEL on a B7500 for snow. It had R4's and the rears were loaded. Worked very well without chains. Used the same setup on the L3200 for the first year before refurbing a blower for it. Again, no problem without chains.
I'd suggest getting the rears loaded in addition to some sort of ballast. The ballast can be in the form of a ballast box or simply an implement. For me an implement makes sense. It'd be unhandy to drop my 619 pound rear mower to pick up a ballast box. The distance of the center of the mower behind the lift pins multiplies the effect of the 619 pounds.
My L3200 has filled rears. There's usually something on the 3PH - mower in Summer, blower in Winter, or another implement of some sort. Even with the filled rears I like to have something hanging on the hitch for any serious FEL lifting like dirt or crushed stone, or lifting heavy pieces of equipment.
For 10 years I used a rear blade and FEL on a B7500 for snow. It had R4's and the rears were loaded. Worked very well without chains. Used the same setup on the L3200 for the first year before refurbing a blower for it. Again, no problem without chains.
I'd suggest getting the rears loaded in addition to some sort of ballast. The ballast can be in the form of a ballast box or simply an implement. For me an implement makes sense. It'd be unhandy to drop my 619 pound rear mower to pick up a ballast box. The distance of the center of the mower behind the lift pins multiplies the effect of the 619 pounds.
I don't bother loading my tires. When traction becomes an issue in winter I put the chains on. In summer I put the backhoe on if I need to make heavy lifts and want to drive in 2WD. I don't think loading will help your winter traction too much.
johnjk
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B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
I have a B3200 and loaded my rears last fall with -32 washer fluid. With all the rain this year, I am not tearing up my property while mowing. If I do generate any damage, it is where I have 4WD engaged and the front tires dig in. I am running Ag tires. I leave my FEL on year round and use a box blade to push snow if I need to. I have a lot less issues with traction since loading the rears. If I do start to spin, it is because I am pushing too much or trying to get too big a bite with my FEL.
I'm hoping to be able to get more snow experience this winter. We got a good amount this past year but my drive is long and unprotected. Mother Nature does a good job removing that snow from the drive for me. I may get a couple drifts in front of the garages with the remainder basically clear.
I'm hoping to be able to get more snow experience this winter. We got a good amount this past year but my drive is long and unprotected. Mother Nature does a good job removing that snow from the drive for me. I may get a couple drifts in front of the garages with the remainder basically clear.
All I know is years ago mine were not filled, you don;t need that its a waste of money so on and so on, first year I owned a tractor, of another color, well traction was a bit of an issue,, I filled them and have never looked back
So for the folks with the filled tires do you notice a big difference in stability when, say, mowing on the side of a hill? I do have a steep bank I mow, it is only one pass but it can be touch and go for a bit if i am not careful.
You have to remember that with the filled tires the weight is on the ground already and so it is below the center of gravity so yes it does make a difference, like putting wheel spacers on the wheels to widen the stance. Some say a waste of time and money, others its a god send.
For what it's worth, I left no noticeable ruts in the yard 4 hours after a pretty hard rain. I'm running stock turfs, rears loaded, backhoe attached, and was carrying 3/4 full buckets of dirt. Made 6 passes. You could tell where I went because of the pattern in the grass, but no ruts or indentations. The turf tires distribute the weight much differently that both industrial and ag, and soil type is the biggest determining factor. As far as stability goes, it does feel like it helps, but would be hard to put a number on it.
johnjk
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B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
I feel that mine is a bit more stable when mowing the ditch out front. Less sliding. I always use 4WD and keep the FEL a couple inches off the ground. The more weight the lower, the better. The increase in stability has not caused me to mow on the steeper parts. I still do not like being at that angle. I'd rather spend the extra time with the string trimmer than bite off more than I can handle.
I like how the County does it with a mower on a hydraulic arm that they get down the side in to the ditch. This and a rear mower that is offset from the tractor so they can stay on relatively flat ground while the mower deck is on the slope.
Regardless of traction, I’d load them for safety. I have thousands of hours running all kinds and sizes of equipment, these tractors without ballast and a load in the bucket are very dangerous even on flat ground. Raise the bucket while turning and hit either a hole or a bump and its going over. We’ve all said “won’t happen to me”, ”done this before”, “only take a second” and the time to put on a counter weight is skipped.
For safety’s sake, LOAD THEM!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
For safety’s sake, LOAD THEM!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
That comment is textbook correct.
If your primary use for your machine is mowing perhaps consider turf tires. They are considered the best for snow by many. if you can keep up with the snow a rear blade is effective.
I picked up a 63” snowblower for my B2601 and have a box blade (BB1260) that will be good for evening the weight, as well as pulling snow from close to garage doors etc if I pull up the scarifiers. Mostly it’s used as a box blade to level driveways but should work well without needing a snow blade, ballast box or filling my turf tires. Without any ballast I already leave ruts in my lawn when mowing with a 60” mmm. Trying to only mow when its dry...