L245 throttle is sporadic

chartersj

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L245dt
Oct 25, 2018
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0
6
New brunswick, Canada
I finally got my new starter for my new to me l245dt. I bought it not running a couple weeks ago and hadn't been started for almost 3 years. It started up without too much trouble using the glow plugs it would start and stall after a few seconds and eventually got it to stay running. However it will rev up and down on it's own. The linkage to the throttle lever on the injection pump moves freely. With the hood up I can watch the arm move and there seems to be a large dead spot from idle to about 3/4 throttle. Once it gets to that point it will rev quite high and stay there without holding the foot throttle down. I have to pull on the hand/shut off throttle to bring it back down to the point it shuts the fuel off before it will calm down. I sprayed some fluid film on the arm on the pump but it seems like whatever that arm on the pump controls inside is sticking possibly. If I quickly run the throttle arm wide open to idle with my hand it seems to rev up and down fine right back down to idle. And stay there. But if you do it slowly as you normally would there is that large dead spot where it won't do anything untill it revs way up then won't stop till you cut the fuel off
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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The rack is sticking in the injection pump.
It will need to be pulled apart, cleaned and rebuilt.
I would also do the injectors at the same time.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I don't think it's that hard on that model of pump, I could walk you through it. ;)
 

chartersj

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Equipment
L245dt
Oct 25, 2018
77
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6
New brunswick, Canada
I started it up today after work and noticed a few drops of what seemed to be coolant mixed with a little oil out of the bottom of the breather hose in the picture. It was just a few drops then when the motor warmed up nothing came out at all... Would that indicate a small leak in the head gasket?
 

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North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
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Sandpoint, ID
I started it up today after work and noticed a few drops of what seemed to be coolant mixed with a little oil out of the bottom of the breather hose in the picture. It was just a few drops then when the motor warmed up nothing came out at all... Would that indicate a small leak in the head gasket?
or a cracked head.

I would drain the oil and check for coolant before you do anything else, as you might be in for a full rebuild.
 

chartersj

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L245dt
Oct 25, 2018
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6
New brunswick, Canada
or a cracked head.

I would drain the oil and check for coolant before you do anything else, as you might be in for a full rebuild.
I did just change the oil the day before I put the new starter on and there was no trace of water or coolant contamination at all. Oil still looks good on the dip stick as well. I am talking a total of 3 or 4 tiny droplets that I wiped off the bottom of the vent hose and it wasn't milky at all.
 
Last edited:

Russell King

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Jun 17, 2012
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Was it clear like water or colored (green normally) like a water/antifreeze?

I could imagine some condensation coming out of the tube but more expert people may not agree. Let them chime in


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
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Sandpoint, ID
Was it clear like water or colored (green normally) like a water/antifreeze?

I could imagine some condensation coming out of the tube but more expert people may not agree. Let them chime in
Good point's, I guess I assumed it was antifreeze he was seeing.

It could very well just be condensation. ;)
 

thepumpguysc

Member
Aug 8, 2018
267
1
16
Sunny South Carolina
Takeoff that little cover.. & have a look.. get a good strong flashlite.
There may be springs attached to the inj. pump/engine throttle linkage..remember or take a good pic. of where they are linked/hooked up..
You might also have to take off a clip inorder to disconnect the linkage from the engine to the pump.
IF u have a shut off solenoid that screws into the engine block?? Remove that 1st..
 

chartersj

Member

Equipment
L245dt
Oct 25, 2018
77
0
6
New brunswick, Canada
It was quite clear looking but hard to tell with that small amount. But I am going to keep a close eye on it. Ok I will start with that lower cover plate and take pictures. I don't believe it has a shut off solenoid. The throttle arm pulls back from idle to shut it off.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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First you need to clean off everything around the injection pump and injectors.
Use air, brushes, and brake parts cleaner, no dirt, grease, flaky paint, or debri left behind.

Then use 2 wrenches and take off the lines at the injector and the injection pump, start with the front one and work back.
If you do not hold the injector or injector pump holders when taking off the lines you run a high risk of twisting the lines and breaking them.

Once all the lines are off, remove the side cover, you do not need to remove the speed control plate to remove the injection pump, but in this case you need to remove it to check the spring and movement of the throttle arm and governor, so remove the speed control plate lift gently as there is a spring attached to the arm, tie a piece of string to the spring (if you were to drop the spring into the bottom of the motor you would require tearing the motor down to get it back),
through the side cover remove the large spring off of the linkage and let it come out the front with the speed control plate.

Unbolt the injection pump and lift up, the rack in the pump must be forward to pull the pump out of a slot in the block.

DO NOT take any of the pump apart till you check in, because there are three to six parts you do not remove and if you do, you'll have to send it in to get it professionally rebuilt.

You are removing spring 21 (large spring) not 20 (small spring).




 

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chartersj

Member

Equipment
L245dt
Oct 25, 2018
77
0
6
New brunswick, Canada
First you need to clean off everything around the injection pump and injectors.
Use air, brushes, and brake parts cleaner, no dirt, grease, flaky paint, or debri left behind.

Then use 2 wrenches and take off the lines at the injector and the injection pump, start with the front one and work back.
If you do not hold the injector or injector pump holders when taking off the lines you run a high risk of twisting the lines and breaking them.

Once all the lines are off, remove the side cover, you do not need to remove the speed control plate to remove the injection pump, but in this case you need to remove it to check the spring and movement of the throttle arm and governor, so remove the speed control plate lift gently as there is a spring attached to the arm, tie a piece of string to the spring (if you were to drop the spring into the bottom of the motor you would require tearing the motor down to get it back),
through the side cover remove the large spring off of the linkage and let it come out the front with the speed control plate.

Unbolt the injection pump and lift up, the rack in the pump must be forward to pull the pump out of a slot in the block.

DO NOT take any of the pump apart till you check in, because there are three to six parts you do not remove and if you do, you'll have to send it in to get it professionally rebuilt.

You are removing spring 21 (large spring) not 20 (small spring).




Awesome! Thanks so much for writing that out for me. Finally got my boat motor back together and out of my shed so now I have room to put the tractor in to pull the cab off and really start focusing on that. Will post pics when I get started
 

chartersj

Member

Equipment
L245dt
Oct 25, 2018
77
0
6
New brunswick, Canada
So I finally had some time to take the side cove and throttle plate off with the big spring. Everything moves freely. The small spring that moves the linkage that moves the pin on the side of the IP seems loose and stretched out possibly. Is that linkage arm suppose to move from left to right (back to front) smoothly with the throttle arm? Because it does not.