Questions for a new owner-to-be (L2501)

movin to the country · Oct 15, 2017

Hey all, glad to be here. I take delivery this week on my very first tractor.
I'm getting the L2501 trailer package with the 5' box blade, 5' bush hog and FEL. We have bought 6.5 acres of pasture on which we will be building our home starting next month.

I'll take any and all advice, as I'm a bit nervous about a few things; mainly pulling this trailer loaded, and loading and unloading. I will be doing this a few times as the house gets built and necessary projects arise, such as driveway construction. We currently live about 30 minutes away in a rental while we build.

If you have any bits of advice, I'm all ears!

Thank you

D2Cat · Oct 15, 2017

Movin... weclome. Nervous energy is good, it help keep you thinking about what to do.

First off, don't get in a hurry with anything you're doing. As you gain confidence and competence you'll move faster and still be comfortable. Keep your loader bucket as close to the ground as possible (like one foot above ground) when moving around, especially when the bucket is loaded with material of any kind.

Did the dealer put any kind of liquid in the rear tires? That helps to keep the tractor more stable. But you can accomplish similar results by keeping an implement on the rear.

Keep your ROPS up, and wear a seat belt.

movin to the country · Oct 15, 2017

D2Cat said:
Movin... weclome. Nervous energy is good, it help keep you thinking about what to do.

First off, don't get in a hurry with anything you're doing. As you gain confidence and competence you'll move faster and still be comfortable. Keep your loader bucket as close to the ground as possible (like one foot above ground) when moving around, especially when the bucket is loaded with material of any kind.

Did the dealer put any kind of liquid in the rear tires? That helps to keep the tractor more stable. But you can accomplish similar results by keeping an implement on the rear.

Keep your ROPS up, and wear a seat belt.

Thank you. I will definitely take it low and slow. My invoice says "with rear tire ballast", so not sure what that means exactly. I'll give him a call on that one.

skeets · Oct 15, 2017

One more thing,,, never ,never,never let your better half see how much fun your having,, other wise your going to have to share your new toys,,, errrrr TOOLS ,,, I meant tools

North Idaho Wolfman · Oct 15, 2017

Loading and unloading is a little stressful the first go at it, just take it slow loading , unloading, and hauling.
Load and unload on a flat surface, set the parking brake, block the trailer tires, Tie it down on 4 corners and separate tie downs on implements.
I like straps others like chains, use whatever your comfortable working with.
Before hitting the road check all light and trailer brakes, set the controller Accordingly; empty trailer will need less gain than a full trailer.
Just remember it takes longer to stop and take turns slower.

If you live in a area of high theft get a good trailer hitch lock even if you leave it attached to a truck.

Don't try and tow a trailer and load that is too heavy for the truck.
A half ton truck is a bit too light to be towing a full size tractor and trailer, 3/4 ton or greater is a much better tow vehicle for that unit.
Yes it can be done with a half ton, but it's not safe to be towing with a truck that's weight and handling ability is at, or above max.

Hook · Oct 16, 2017

You may want to consider a written checklist anytime you are moving your tractor. It is easy to leave something undone and that can be costly or worse.
For example:

1) Tractor brakes locked
2) No loose tools or tie downs on the trailer
3) Trailer lights plugged in and working
4) Ramps in upright position and secured
5) Trailer jack all the way up
6) Hitch locked and secured with safety pin
7) Safety chains attached
8) Trailer brakes set for load
9) All ties downs secure and tag ends of straps secured

The previous replies such as load and unload on level ground, setting parking brake, have ROP up and seat belt on are very important. Be safe!

MadMax31 · Oct 16, 2017

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OZbX8giqnJA

Mike makes good points here. I prefer chain binders especially since I paid nearly 20k for my machine.

Tunaslayer · Oct 16, 2017

Congrats on the tractor. I bought my 2501 about a year ago, and it is a great machine. I towed mine with a F150, but previous comments are correct in that you are pushing the limits of a 1/2 ton truck with that tractor. The biggest item IMO to watch for is the tongue weight (a little extra is better than not enough). There is a weigh safe hitch that has a scale built in. Neat idea by pricy. There is a ton of great info on here about trailering also. Just use the search.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

movin to the country · Oct 16, 2017

skeets said:
One more thing,,, never ,never,never let your better half see how much fun your having,, other wise your going to have to share your new toys,,, errrrr TOOLS ,,, I meant tools

I'll try to keep a straight face when going out to do "work".

movin to the country · Oct 16, 2017

North Idaho Wolfman said:
Loading and unloading is a little stressful the first go at it, just take it slow loading , unloading, and hauling.
Load and unload on a flat surface, set the parking brake, block the trailer tires, Tie it down on 4 corners and separate tie downs on implements.
I like straps others like chains, use whatever your comfortable working with.
Before hitting the road check all light and trailer brakes, set the controller Accordingly; empty trailer will need less gain than a full trailer.
Just remember it takes longer to stop and take turns slower.

If you live in a area of high theft get a good trailer hitch lock even if you leave it attached to a truck.

Don't try and tow a trailer and load that is too heavy for the truck.
A half ton truck is a bit too light to be towing a full size tractor and trailer, 3/4 ton or greater is a much better tow vehicle for that unit.
Yes it can be done with a half ton, but it's not safe to be towing with a truck that's weight and handling ability is at, or above max.

Great points, thank you. I will be towing with a Tundra Crewmax, so I'm a bit apprehensive. I might consider having it delivered to the property.

movin to the country · Oct 16, 2017

Great list. Thank you

movin to the country · Oct 16, 2017

Hook said:
You may want to consider a written checklist anytime you are moving your tractor. It is easy to leave something undone and that can be costly or worse.
For example:

1) Tractor brakes locked
2) No loose tools or tie downs on the trailer
3) Trailer lights plugged in and working
4) Ramps in upright position and secured
5) Trailer jack all the way up
6) Hitch locked and secured with safety pin
7) Safety chains attached
8) Trailer brakes set for load
9) All ties downs secure and tag ends of straps secured

The previous replies such as load and unload on level ground, setting parking brake, have ROP up and seat belt on are very important. Be safe!

Thank you, I will refer to this list for sure.

movin to the country · Oct 16, 2017

MadMax31 said:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OZbX8giqnJA

Mike makes good points here. I prefer chain binders especially since I paid nearly 20k for my machine.

I learn much better by watching videos like these. Thank you

movin to the country · Oct 16, 2017

Tunaslayer said:
Congrats on the tractor. I bought my 2501 about a year ago, and it is a great machine. I towed mine with a F150, but previous comments are correct in that you are pushing the limits of a 1/2 ton truck with that tractor. The biggest item IMO to watch for is the tongue weight (a little extra is better than not enough). There is a weigh safe hitch that has a scale built in. Neat idea by pricy. There is a ton of great info on here about trailering also. Just use the search.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I need to research the Tundra's capacities.

85Hokie · Oct 16, 2017

movin to the country said:
I learn much better by watching videos like these. Thank you

Movin,

The guy in the video brings up a good point- but a simple solution to it!

Here is a simple device that will stop all those loading problems that the video points out.

When my BX25D was delivered 4 years ago - the guy brought it from the dealership on a SINGLE axle 12' trailer! I could not believe it.....and when he backed it down the tailgate of the trailer, the ENTIRE rear end, wheels and all of the truck came off the ground!!!! I looked at that, bit my lip and then designed something simple to help me with my 14' double axle setup.

Look in my picture - this a simple 2x10 that is constructed in an upside down "T" - These braces sit in the trailer and before I load, I place them in the corners of the trailer - these guys are about an 1" too short. AS soon as you hit the tailgate of the trailer, these braces STOP all downward motion of the trailer! Think of them as outriggers on a backhoe.

I have used these dozens of times, and true - they are getting a little beat up but still work as designed. I took a piece of old seat belt and attached to make a quick grab handle.

I never load the BX without them - when I get to the site - I park and place them back under and remove them BEFORE I close the tailgate of the trailer.

D2Cat · Oct 16, 2017

85Hokie said:
Movin,

The guy in the video brings up a good point- but a simple solution to it!

Here is a simple device that will stop all those loading problems that the video points out.

When my BX25D was delivered 4 years ago - the guy brought it from the dealership on a SINGLE axle 12' trailer! I could not believe it.....and when he backed it down the tailgate of the trailer, the ENTIRE rear end, wheels and all of the truck came off the ground!!!! I looked at that, bit my lip and then designed something simple to help me with my 14' double axle setup.

Look in my picture - this a simple 2x10 that is constructed in an upside down "T" - These braces sit in the trailer and before I load, I place them in the corners of the trailer - these guys are about an 1" too short. AS soon as you hit the tailgate of the trailer, these braces STOP all downward motion of the trailer! Think of them as outriggers on a backhoe.

I have used these dozens of times, and true - they are getting a little beat up but still work as designed. I took a piece of old seat belt and attached to make a quick grab handle.

I never load the BX without them - when I get to the site - I park and place them back under and remove them BEFORE I close the tailgate of the trailer.

What 85Hokie describes is something that happens way too often.

My neighbor had is PU and trailer backed up his driveway which has a downward slope away from his house. Went to load a skidsteer, the rear of his truck came up and it went down his driveway and onto the gravel road. Very fortunate for him no damage was done to anything, except his britches!!

Do as he explained!!!!

The fluid in the rear tires is what is referred to "loaded". It's extra weight in your tires.

cp1436 · Oct 16, 2017

Congrats on your new machine. I just bought had my new L2501 delivered a couple of weeks ago, I love it. A couple of pieces of advice, pick up a quick hitch and if you have any clearing to do invest in a Piranha bar it's amazing. I just noticed that we're close...I'm over in Cannon Co. Who did you get yours through?

Cathy Liebchen · Oct 16, 2017

North Idaho Wolfman said:
Loading and unloading is a little stressful the first go at it, just take it slow loading , unloading, and hauling.
Load and unload on a flat surface, set the parking brake, block the trailer tires, Tie it down on 4 corners and separate tie downs on implements.
I like straps others like chains, use whatever your comfortable working with.
Before hitting the road check all light and trailer brakes, set the controller Accordingly; empty trailer will need less gain than a full trailer.
Just remember it takes longer to stop and take turns slower.

If you live in a area of high theft get a good trailer hitch lock even if you leave it attached to a truck.

Don't try and tow a trailer and load that is too heavy for the truck.
A half ton truck is a bit too light to be towing a full size tractor and trailer, 3/4 ton or greater is a much better tow vehicle for that unit.
Yes it can be done with a half ton, but it's not safe to be towing with a truck that's weight and handling ability is at, or above max.

any half ton truck will easily tow an L2501, it is a fairly lightweight tractor. Just make sure you have a tandem trailer with electric brakes

Cathy Liebchen · Oct 16, 2017

movin to the country said:
Great points, thank you. I will be towing with a Tundra Crewmax, so I'm a bit apprehensive. I might consider having it delivered to the property.

the Tundra is overbuilt to 3/4 ton sized components

Ryansweatt2004 · Oct 16, 2017

movin to the country said:
Thanks, I need to research the Tundra's capacities.

I tow my 2017 L3901 all loaded with FEL and BH77, loaded tires and sometimes a second loader attachment behind my 2010 tundra 5.7 double cab and it tows it just fine. You know there’s weight back there but it handles it great, tons of power to up to highway speed easily and with trailer brakes it stops decent as well. My old 2008 tundra with the 4.7 v8 would still tow it but would bog down and down shift going up hills. Either way your tundra will handle it just fine.

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