Usage, time, procedures?

Stmar

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Equipment
B2650HSDC
May 23, 2017
906
42
28
Buffalo, Wyoming
From reading various posts it looks like there are different strokes for different folks on this site. Some people put hundreds of hours per year on their machines and some may put less than a hundred. I had to really try to get almost 50 hours in 5 months just to get to the first service before winter. My inquiry is what procedures are best for the low hour user? I run my machine at 50%, about 1250 rpms, for 5 minutes for warm up. I try to keep my fuel tank full as possible. I keep a battery tender on it when parked, I have pig tails for quick connect. I have a dedicated space with electric outlets so that I can plug in the block heater when it gets colder. This winter the tractor will be used mostly for snow removal on a 1/4 mile of gravel driveway. Any tips to keep my new tractor operating at a high safe level would be appreciated.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I try to keep my fuel tank full as possible. I keep a battery tender on it when parked, I have pig tails for quick connect. I have a dedicated space with electric outlets so that I can plug in the block heater when it gets colder.
Sounds like you have everything under control! ;)
 

85Hokie

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I completely agree with NIW - ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You are ahead of most people for being ready to go and avoiding potential problems!
 

BAP

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The only other thing would be to add a fuel anti-gel like the Power Service in the white bottle. This will prevent having any troubles in the cold weather.
 

skeets

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OH great, more stuff to do,and I suppose you change the oil too,,,,, ;)
 

Stmar

Active member

Equipment
B2650HSDC
May 23, 2017
906
42
28
Buffalo, Wyoming
The only other thing would be to add a fuel anti-gel like the Power Service in the white bottle. This will prevent having any troubles in the cold weather.
Have some white ready to add to next batch of fuel, need to use some up so I can add the winter blend that should be out soon. Already checked my cab heater and it works, should make it more comfortable plowing snow.
Talk about ready, I even got my flu shot, lol, and yes I plan on changing oil.
 

Dave_eng

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M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
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A comment about the use of the block heater. Leaving it plugged in all the time in cold weather is a waste of $. After about two hours of use, temperatures stabilize and you start loosing heat through the engine block as fast as the block heater puts heat into the block.

Get a simple timer. It will soon pay for itself.

I set up my system so I can turn on my block heater from inside my home.

If, no when, I wake up to pee during the night, I will determine if I will need the tractor due to snow, turn on the block heater and go back to bed for about 2 hours
Dave M7040
 

NBKubota

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2650HSDC
Aug 3, 2017
75
0
0
New Brunswick
Sorry to hijack the OPs thread, but with regards to the power service, I have a bottle of the red 911 which I thought I could use for over the winter. My question to those of you familiar with these products, is: do I need a bottle of the white power service as well?

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conropl

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Equipment
L3560 HSDC
Oct 17, 2016
233
18
18
West Michigan
Sorry to hijack the OPs thread, but with regards to the power service, I have a bottle of the red 911 which I thought I could use for over the winter. My question to those of you familiar with these products, is: do I need a bottle of the white power service as well?

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The red bottle is used when you already have a gelling problem. The white bottle is used to prevent the problem to begin with. My understanding is the red should not be used as a normal continous use additive... that's what the white is for.

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D2Cat

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Utopia Texas, this is what I had in mind. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Santa-Sn...09876&wl11=online&wl12=24921803&wl13=&veh=sem

At my farm I have a block heater and a 1 amp charger I use on my haying tractor (730 Case) plugged into a timer that comes on every morning (when the weather gets cold) at 9AM and stays on for 2 1/2 hours. I'm usually there by 11AM, and I just unplug the cord as I pull out of the barn.

I have the cord hanging from above on a long metal hook and it comes down just to the right of my loader controls. I just unplug it there and the cord hangs, waiting for me to plug it in when I return. It's pretty simple and can't forget to unplug because it's right by my hand. Don't have to leave the tractor seat.
 

NBKubota

New member

Equipment
2650HSDC
Aug 3, 2017
75
0
0
New Brunswick
The red bottle is used when you already have a gelling problem. The white bottle is used to prevent the problem to begin with. My understanding is the red should not be used as a normal continous use additive... that's what the white is for.

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Ok, thanks for that. I'll have to go out and get myself a bottle of the white now!

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Stmar

Active member

Equipment
B2650HSDC
May 23, 2017
906
42
28
Buffalo, Wyoming
Did not mention it but I do have a timer for the block heater, just a little plug in model I picked up at Menards. Also have wood pallets to rest implements on since I have the SSQA, easy switch from FEL to snow blade, figure I may need one or the other quickly, may have to dig out drifts of "Redi-Whip" if too tall and wide for the blade.
Tell me a bit about that 911 red additive. Is it worth having some on hand? I have the gray and white.
Also in an earlier post about chains someone said putting chains on the front was not a good idea. Anybody know why that is?
 

conropl

Member

Equipment
L3560 HSDC
Oct 17, 2016
233
18
18
West Michigan
Did not mention it but I do have a timer for the block heater, just a little plug in model I picked up at Menards. Also have wood pallets to rest implements on since I have the SSQA, easy switch from FEL to snow blade, figure I may need one or the other quickly, may have to dig out drifts of "Redi-Whip" if too tall and wide for the blade.
Tell me a bit about that 911 red additive. Is it worth having some on hand? I have the gray and white.
Also in an earlier post about chains someone said putting chains on the front was not a good idea. Anybody know why that is?
Having red bottle 911 on hand depends on how cold it gets where you live. If your fuel gels up and plugs fuel lines or the filter, then it is useful to have on hand to help get the fuel moving again. Howeve, if your only diesel is your tractor, and you have a clogged fuel system because of cold fuel, then you can probably go get some at that time or wait for it to warm up. If you are making money with your tractor, or your ability to get out of you drive is dependent on your tractor working; then you probably should have some on hand.

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Dave_eng

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Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,121
931
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
Did not mention it but I do have a timer for the block heater, just a little plug in model I picked up at Menards. Also have wood pallets to rest implements on since I have the SSQA, easy switch from FEL to snow blade, figure I may need one or the other quickly, may have to dig out drifts of "Redi-Whip" if too tall and wide for the blade.
Tell me a bit about that 911 red additive. Is it worth having some on hand? I have the gray and white.
Also in an earlier post about chains someone said putting chains on the front was not a good idea. Anybody know why that is?
People run into problems in cold weather when they don't use fuel regularly bought at big truck stops. They buy a couple of 25 liter containers of diesel in warm weather in early Sept. Fill their machine and then wait for cold weather. The warm weather diesel is the problem as it gels in cold weather.

I buy my diesel in bulk in mid December. I pay a premium for what my supplier calls -40 fuel. It is good to -40 F without gelling. I never use nor need an additive.

Trucks stops selling large quantities of fuel, adjust what they buy based upon the time of year temp. Because they go through large quantities, their stock is always current whereas a gas station selling gas and diesel is likely not selling much diesel and their stock be be the wrong stuff for the current season.

Re chains on front axles.

On my model, Kubota says no way. M7040.
I would not anyway as I know what front axle parts cost. Your rear axle with no steering and big wheels and tires is much tougher than a front axle having steering capability. Treat your front axle like your best friend under the most difficult conditions. Some tractors have simple U joints in the drive shaft at each front wheel to allow the wheel to steer. Some tractors use "portal" axles where the drive shaft does not reach the front wheels rather spur bevel gears turn the twisting force 90 degrees and then down lower, another 90 degree turn and out to the center of the wheel. All these gears and bearings are expensive. The front chains will give more traction to be certain but even the best TRYGG studded chains impose a pulsing force in the drive train. Spend a bit on time on Messicks.com looking at what your front axle and its parts cost then make a decision. To me the choice is obvious.

TRYGG studded chains on the rear, tires loaded and heavy snow blower on the 3 pt. That is a prescription that will last. If your situation is so tough you need 4WD most of the time, then buy screw in tire studs for the front tires. They are used around the world on road clearing equipment. The load they impose on the front drive line is much more uniform and yet they provide ice traction as good as many types of chains.

Dave M7040