Wiring and fuse block brain farts....

OC455 · Sep 26, 2017

As the title says, totally having a brain fart here.

As some of you guys know, I added my own hydraulic motor to my snowblower for the chute rotation and added a linear actuator for the chute deflector. I also added some LED lights to the chute for extra lighting so I can see where the snow is going.

I wired it up running off the battery so I could use it the previous winter. Wasn't really too keen on how that was setup.

I decided to run an auxiliary fuse block as Mr. Short has done. I have a 6 fuse/block with LED indicators. I have a 40amp relay to run off of the back of the factory fuse block (work light fuse) as it will only work with the key in the on position.

I figure this will tidy up the mess and will be much safer than what was there before (found a bunch of the wires somehow managed to come apart from the relay).

I have this type of light switch: http://www.allelectronics.com/mas_assets/cache/image/9/d/1/2513.Jpg

Where I am having a brain fart is how to hook up this style switch into the fuse block and have the switch work correctly. I figured out how to run the wires using the relay to the battery. Just not getting how to run it using a fuse block.

That and I want to get the winch I bought hooked up too. That's not really an issue.

bxray · Sep 26, 2017

Did the switch come with a wiring diagram?
One pin is 12v in maybe the center.
Assuming the led down is on.
One is 12v out. Should be the Left or back.
And one is ground for led light. Should be the front under the led.
When you push on a rocker switch it moves the points the other way.

Are you going to control the relay and the relay control the extra fuse box?

OC455 · Sep 26, 2017

The top of the switch is the "earth", the middle is "load" and the bottom is "supply".

The top of the switch has the LED light in it.

I was just wondering if I had to run a separate relay with the fuse block there. The LED lights do not draw a whole lot, that's why I was having a problem thinking it through, or I'm just confusing myself. I want the LED light on the switch to work to show that it is on.

UGH...

bxray · Sep 26, 2017

Leds do not draw much. Maybe 10 mA.
What is the switch controlling?

OC455 · Sep 26, 2017

Two 36w LED lights.

bxray · Sep 26, 2017

That would be 3 Amps.

OC455 · Sep 29, 2017

Ok, getting the fog out of the brain housing group to get done what I had to...

I bought the fuse block awhile ago, finally getting around to putting things together. 6 fuses available. 40amp relay to power the fuse block and tapped off of the back side of the factory fuse block from the work light fuse. I tapped off the red wire/black stripe. Soldered the connection and then wrapped it to prevent corrosion.

Easier to remove the factory fuse block and have access to the wiring then trying to tap off of the ignition wire. I checked the factory wiring diagram of the shop manual to make sure.

I ran the tap wire through wire loom to the relay. Hooked the white wire to fuse block from the switch, checked the earth and load wires with the key on and the switch on with a test light. SUCCESS!!! Now to re-wire the rocker switch and mount it better for the linear actuator on chute deflector for the snow blower.

Much better and safer than what was there previously.

bxray · Sep 29, 2017

Yes, clean-fused wiring is the best way to go.
Will also make it easer to troubleshoot.
Or shoot trouble.
Ray

OC455 · Oct 1, 2017

OK, I'm lost. Far from a wiring guru here at all.

I ran my DTDP rocker switch wiring and that works perfectly for my linear actuator.

Ran the wiring for the light switch...

I replaced the white wire with a yellow wire because it was too short and was putting stress on it. The yellow wire was run from the fuse block to the "supply" on the switch. The I hooked up the wires from the light to the "earth"/black wire and "load"/red on the switch.

Tractor is on, light switch is on, no lights. I checked the lights (hooked up to a different source, they work), Checked the quik-connects, power to the them.
Replaced one of the quik-connects to be sure.

Used my test light, hooked the alligator clip to a known good ground, touch the probe to the red and black on the back of the switch and the light lit up. Put the probe into the quik-connect and the test light lit up. But no LED lights.

What the heck am I doing wrong? Do I need to run a ground wire from the "earth" on switch to a ground on the tractor itself?

OC455 · Oct 1, 2017

Lennyzx11 · Oct 2, 2017

It sounds like you may need to run a ground wire from the switch to ground.
You ran a hot wire from supply to switch to light.
But I read you only ran ground wiring from light to switch with nothing from switch to ground to complete the circuit.
You can disconnect the ground wire from the switch and connect it to a ground on the chassis also.
You also wouldn't really need a double pole double throw switch on a simple light circuit but it can be used if you already have it.
If the switch has an indicator light built in... it will need a ground also in order to illuminate.

Circuit should be
supply>hot wire>
switch(usually center taps on dpdt)>
hot wire to light>
Light to ground with wire.

And most Leds can't be hooked up backwards. Positive wire has to be the supply or won't light.

Prob more than you wanted...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OC455 · Oct 2, 2017

Lennyzx11 said:
It sounds like you may need to run a ground wire from the switch to ground.
You ran a hot wire from supply to switch to light.
But I read you only ran ground wiring from light to switch with nothing from switch to ground to complete the circuit.
You can disconnect the ground wire from the switch and connect it to a ground on the chassis also.
You also wouldn't really need a double pole double throw switch on a simple light circuit but it can be used if you already have it.
If the switch has an indicator light built in... it will need a ground also in order to illuminate.

Circuit should be
supply>hot wire>
switch(usually center taps on dpdt)>
hot wire to light>
Light to ground with wire.

And most Leds can't be hooked up backwards. Positive wire has to be the supply or won't light.

Prob more than you wanted...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My DPDT switch runs my linear actuator. That works perfectly.

I have a 3 pole LED switch like this:
http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/665/713/851/851713665_771.jpg

OC455 · Oct 2, 2017

I appreciate it Lenny. Just trying to make sure I get this working. Snows coming and I don't want to be left out in the cold....

OC455 · Oct 2, 2017

Lenny thank you. Got it wired and ran another ground wire from the switch to a ground point on the tractor. I used the mount for the fuse block as a ground on the tractor. Everything works as it should. Just missing the one ground to get it to all work.

Thanks for the help. Now to prep and get everything ready this coming winter.

Dave_eng · Oct 6, 2017

I suspect the ground on the switch with three terminals is only for the LED within the switch.

If you have it working now great!

Dave M7040

OC455 · Oct 9, 2017

Dave_eng said:
I suspect the ground on the switch with three terminals is only for the LED within the switch.

If you have it working now great!

Dave M7040

I had to run the ground from the switch to the frame/chassis because where the lights are, do not ground well. Much rather have a solid ground point than an iffy one.

That and I painted my snow blower chute to keep the rust from taking over.

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