B7001........finding the noise :)

g7r0a0y1edoutIN

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B7001, muratori tiller, home-made leveling box, 12$ auction blade :), ......more
May 5, 2015
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Shelburn, Indiana, USA
Recently purchased a very fine gray market B7001, in my 2 month experience of tractor, orange tractor ownership, bought it knowing 3/6 would rumble grumble n grind and reverse as well.....so I tore into the transmission in hopes of finding said problem and did, lots of shaving big and small in bottom of case as well as fine ones in the filter, also one rod holding approx. 3 gears when i move tge pto in on position rocks and rolls and hss the rear,wall all scratched up, out and cleaned now, and a thorough reading of other posts before joining indicate the sister to this machine is the B7100, downloaded a manual and a service manual for tear down, I guess I'm in more need of parts than anything tight so hope this is in the right spot, and seen that service dept vic is the dude to talk to from earlier reading, got several pics which I hope will attach without trouble.

I've searched for gaskets which seem to be non-existent in my search for gray or N.A. models 7001 and 7100,

Also I pulled the hydro pump off bc my oil was always full yet I was losing Mass amounts of hydro fluid in the case, and noticed the rubber seal was pushed out from its hole, once removed and pictured, I was able to push it back in just inside flush, will I need to tear down and replace seal?

Glad I finally joined and thanks to all members in advance and thanks for a great site

If more info us needed I'll do my best to picture and explain myself until I gain some technical terms and know how, thanks again.....
 

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Tooljunkie

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Wow. Lots of damage in there. Right side of gear cluster picture looks really bad. Im suspecting a couple bearing failures.explains seal popping out.
Not familiar with this particular machine, but moving parts i know well. Bearings go bad and take gears with them.

I can see it will need a complete teardown. May want to search for a parts tractor or back half of one. Best of luck.
 

kubotasam

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B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
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Alfred Maine
Many parts are still available from the dealer for a B7100 which is not a gray model. You show a picture of the serial number which starts with B7001. All the early B7100's the serial number started with b7001. I don't know the all the differences between the b7100 and b7001 but I do know a dealer will help if you have a b7100. How did you determine it was a b7001? If only by the serial # you may actually have a B7100.
 

g7r0a0y1edoutIN

New member

Equipment
B7001, muratori tiller, home-made leveling box, 12$ auction blade :), ......more
May 5, 2015
8
0
0
Shelburn, Indiana, USA
Hey thanks guys, and it was strictly from the serial # but that has now be put to rest, lol, thanks wolfman!!!! My mechanically inclined friend said he found parts (bearing) for like 4-10 $'s, I assume big box auto, finally got it pulled apart from the tractor and have the case and gears sitting on my table,

Wolfman would I need to look in the service section for an exploded view of how to take apart or ask service dept vic for one?

One gear is a lil chewed on edge of teeth, should I change it while I have it torn down?

Hoping to be back in business in a couple of weeks, then cancun bound!!!!!!!


As always thanks for any and all replys, suggestions, and help!!
 

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North Idaho Wolfman

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Bearing failure is brutal on parts.

Yes get ahold of Vic to ask about Grey parts and manuals. ;)
 

Daren Todd

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For the roll pin, a good punch and 4lb flogging hammer would be your best bet. Might have to put some heat to it first to break the rust loose. Holding the punch with a pair of vise grips helps to save the fingers :D
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
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Soak it with your favorite penetrant (I like PB Blaster) and then wait a good while (hours preferably). Then spray again and see if the pin moves at all.
It may take several days of spray and wait and see if pin moves...patience is a virtue in this case.

You may have to start drilling through the pin...carefully of course.. if it does not drive out.

If the shaft ends up being stuck in the yoke - don't forget that you can drive it further on to try to break it loose - you don't have to only pull it to break it loose. It worked for me on a stuck implement PTO shaft. Of course liberally apply your favorite penetrating oil for several days before doing too much.
 

kubotasam

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B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
Apr 26, 2010
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63
Alfred Maine
Make sure you are using the correct size pin punch. In one picture it looks like a screwdriver stuck in the hole. You need a pin punch that is just under size of the diameter of the roll pin. A good penetrating oil and lots of soak time is needed.
 

D2Cat

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The advise about using a screwdriver, or too small of a diameter punch is critical. If you use these items it will cause the pin to get tighter. There is a tool for knocking out those pins, but a punch works it just need to be nearly the same size as the hole, but not a tight fit.

You have a jack supporting the u-joint. Don't use the jack. I would suggest you slide the whole transmission over near the side of the table so the splined area is overhanging a couple of inches. Get a piece of iron, 1" x 1/4" strap will work, and cut/grind a "V" on one end. Cut to length so when the "V" is set under the coupling right beside the roll-pin, the bottom of the metal sets on the floor.

Now you can hit the roll-pin(with the punch) without putting any shock on the shaft, bearing, seal in the gear box.

It'll come out real easy now.
 

g7r0a0y1edoutIN

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Equipment
B7001, muratori tiller, home-made leveling box, 12$ auction blade :), ......more
May 5, 2015
8
0
0
Shelburn, Indiana, USA
The screwdriver 8n the pic was way to smakl, was using it to clean out the hole itself dirt n debris!!!

AND thanks for the suggestions, lil bit of WD-40 did it, sprayed er in, sat, 3 good whacks with fingers out of the way pin fell right out, now it's onto the shaft itself which seems to be rusted on as well,

Thanks again for all the help!!!!
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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As I said in my post above:
Since the shaft is stuck in the yoke - don't forget that you can drive it further on to try to break it loose - you don't have to only pull it to break it loose. Tap it lightly on the yoke toward the case and see if it moves. If it moves a little, then spray the exposed shaft and tap toward the end of the shaft. Back and forth will eventually get it off.

It worked for me on a stuck implement PTO shaft. Of course liberally apply your favorite penetrating oil for several days before doing too much.

In my opinion WD-40 is no where near as good as the newer types of penetrating oils.
 

g7r0a0y1edoutIN

New member

Equipment
B7001, muratori tiller, home-made leveling box, 12$ auction blade :), ......more
May 5, 2015
8
0
0
Shelburn, Indiana, USA
Well small small town Midwest america, 8oz can for 5$ from gas station had to do it, lol....

I'll try the whole back n forth here after the holiday....hooray for work all weekend...thanks for the reply and suggestions!!!
 

85Hokie

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The screwdriver 8n the pic was way to smakl, was using it to clean out the hole itself dirt n debris!!!

AND thanks for the suggestions, lil bit of WD-40 did it, sprayed er in, sat, 3 good whacks with fingers out of the way pin fell right out, now it's onto the shaft itself which seems to be rusted on as well,

Thanks again for all the help!!!!

Glad you got the pin out......but get away from the WD-40......great stuff IF THATS all you have.
But as others have said - there are lot mo better liquid wrenches out there, yes - pun intended. AND LW isnt even the best, but I will squirt the hell out of a rust nut/bolt/whatever and then get it a little love tap too. AND when all else fails, the flame wrench works wonders!:eek::)

Little side bar of testing on all the liquid types:

http://www.cyclefish.com/forum/The-...s-best-on-Rusted-Nuts-amp-Bolts-132611-1.html
 

Diydave

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L2202 tractor, L185f tractor
Oct 31, 2013
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The proper instrument to remove a roll pin, is a roll pin punch. It has a correct outer diameter for the pin in question, and a ball style protrusion, in the center, to keep it centered. Moot point, I know, since you got it out. I'd try heating the shaft collar with a propane torch, and get it to about 500 degrees F or so( An IR thermometer would come in handy...) Then let it cool to about 250-300 degrees, and let a beeswax candle melt along all the edges of the shaft and collar, it will wick into the area between them. You might still have to use a puller, but it will be easier to remove...:D