L3800 Radiator elbow broke off!

aasu03

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Kubota L3800HST
Nov 2, 2016
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McDonough, GA
So yesterday I was bush hogging and a mean-stick poked into my engine compartment right where the lower radiator hose connects to the lower radiator inlet and broke the plastic inlet pipe. Aside from why in the world it was made out of plastic.... Does anybody have the part number and a cheap source for a new radiator? Are there any aftermarket companies that may have a cheaper option than OEM? My local Kubota Dealership quoted me "$435 plus tax & shipping for the part and 'bout $300-$350 in labor".... That's at least $800 in my calculation which is a bit tough to swallow. I appreciate the help.

2012 L3800HST 4WD
 
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85Hokie

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There are different variants of the L3800 - be careful and make sure if/when you get the part , you get the correct one.

yours a DT, F or H model?

Sad thing - most radiators ARE made of plastic on new cars/trucks/tractors......

try this place ...maybe you get lucky

http://www.tractorpartsasap.net/partsrequest/partsform.php

fixing that is not going to be easy - if at all possible.
 

Jim L.

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Part number for the radiator is TC420-16000.

Changing it is not that difficult so you may consider doing it yourself.
 

200mph

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It looks like this radiator is used on a number of other models, so perhaps there is some chance you could find a used one from a salvage center.

Kubota: RADIATOR

Part Number TC420-16000

Vendor Kubota

Messick's Price $529.73

Stock Quantity 2

Weight 6.00 lbs

Days to Order In stock

The part fits the 19 models listed below:

B2650HSD
B2650HSDC
B2650HSDC (Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd / Cabin)
B3350HSD
B3350HSDC
B3350SUHSD
L2501D
L2501F
L2501H
L3200DT (Dual Traction 4wd)
L3200F (2wd)
L3200H (Hydrostatic Transmission)
L3800DT (Dual Traction 4wd)
L3800F (2wd)
L3800H (Hydrostatic Transmission)
ZD1211
ZD1211L
ZD1211R
ZD1211RL
 

Dave_eng

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So yesterday I was bush hogging and a mean-stick poked into my engine compartment right where the lower radiator hose connects to the lower radiator inlet and broke the plastic inlet pipe. Aside from why in the world it was made out of plastic.... Does anybody have the part number and a cheap source for a new radiator? Are there any aftermarket companies that may have a cheaper option than OEM? My local Kubota Dealership quoted me "$435 plus tax & shipping for the part and 'bout $300-$350 in labor".... That's at least $800 in my calculation which is a bit tough to swallow. I appreciate the help.

2012 L3800HST 4WD
I would not give up on yours too soon unless you are seeing damage beyond what you have described.

Have you talked to a rad shop? Some can work with plastics. Not unlike car bumpers where some amazing glues exist.

It is only the rad tanks which are plastic, the heat transfer parts are metal.

Here is a link worth reading.

https://www.polyvance.com/radiator.php

Please post some pictures of the damage.

Dave
 

RCW

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Wow - - looking at 200's parts spec -

Weighs 6 lbs....anybody remember when a car/truck version weighed 20+?

As far as used, last couple I replaced were almost new price from salvage yard, but they weren't $500+ either....seems last used one was $125, or $160 new...so went new.
 
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aasu03

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Kubota L3800HST
Nov 2, 2016
14
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McDonough, GA
I've decided to give it the ol' college-try and repair the broken plastic inlet with some epoxy. My only concern there is will the vibration & jarring cause a failure. I do plan to replace a few additional parts as well such as both radiator hoses, thermostat & gasket, rubber feet for the radiator, and fan belt. Are there any other parts you guys can think of?
 

85Hokie

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I've decided to give it the ol' college-try and repair the broken plastic inlet with some epoxy. My only concern there is will the vibration & jarring cause a failure. I do plan to replace a few additional parts as well such as both radiator hoses, thermostat & gasket, rubber feet for the radiator, and fan belt. Are there any other parts you guys can think of?
2 part epoxy will work fine - get some fiberglass (think drywall tape) and add some pieces that allow it to get to parts that are not damaged to reinforce the place that is damaged. Much like wrapping a bad ankle. The rubber hose should take out some of the vibration out....hopefully;)

Shoot some pictures up so we can see the before and after. :)
 

Jim L.

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Jun 18, 2014
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I think that I would take a second look at plastic welding as Dave posted. Nylon cable ties and a soldering iron could get you there.

Whatever you choose, if you lose coolant and pressure and the engine warps, you will be down for a while fixing that.
 

Dave_eng

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I've decided to give it the ol' college-try and repair the broken plastic inlet with some epoxy. My only concern there is will the vibration & jarring cause a failure. I do plan to replace a few additional parts as well such as both radiator hoses, thermostat & gasket, rubber feet for the radiator, and fan belt. Are there any other parts you guys can think of?
Personally, as the one who suggested a repair rather than a replacement, I think using Home Depot grade products will be a mistake. Getting adhesive to bond to plastics with strength is a challenge. Correct products are needed.

Dave
 

aasu03

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Kubota L3800HST
Nov 2, 2016
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McDonough, GA
So here’s where I’m at... I’ve removed the radiator, cleaned the area, and then I used my soldering iron to melt/close the cracks running away from the hole. I added an epoxy used for nylon/plastic. I hope the photos work. Also, I figured I’d go ahead and replace all the hoses (coolant, fuel, etc.), thermostat, and the radiator’s rubber bushings while I’ve got the thing apart. I plan to also apply some epoxy internally to fill any gaps there too. Anymore suggestions?!!?
 

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85Hokie

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I think it looks great - only thing I see that may make a difference, or not, is to place a thicker section WHERE is snapped - thus building that area up and then applying more epoxy as it goes back to undamaged areas. You question about vibrations may cause a problem down the road. Thicker may hold up over time, then again - it might be perfect as it is now!

If it ever leaks or breaks again - gonna be much harder to fix the second time around!!!;)

I hope it works for the life of the tractor!!:)
 

Dave_eng

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So here’s where I’m at... I’ve removed the radiator, cleaned the area, and then I used my soldering iron to melt/close the cracks running away from the hole. I added an epoxy used for nylon/plastic. I hope the photos work. Also, I figured I’d go ahead and replace all the hoses (coolant, fuel, etc.), thermostat, and the radiator’s rubber bushings while I’ve got the thing apart. I plan to also apply some epoxy internally to fill any gaps there too. Anymore suggestions?!!?
Now the true test. Before putting it back on you need to do a pressure test.

Go to somewhere like TSC along with your rad hoses. Buy some cheap plastic fittings. One to plug one of the rad hoses and a second to reduce the size to the point that a schader valve will screw into. A schrader valve is like the one on a bicycle tube to add the air to keep in inflated. TSC will have schrader valves intended to be used on well pump tanks to add air to either the old style tank with a floating diaphragm or the new ones with an internal bladder.

You also should get a bicycle pump and a cheap pressure gauge to use with the schraeder valve.
DO NOT USE AN AIR COMPRESSOR!!!! NOT EVEN THE ONES YOU PLUG INTO YOUR CAR.

Fill the rad almost completely full with water.

Put the rad cap back on. Slowly add air through the schraeder valve checking often with the pressure gauge. Since the rad is almost completely full of water which is in-compressible, the pressure will go up much faster than when filling a flat bicycle tire.

If you go too high the rad cap will start releasing pressure. You want to find the pressure just below when the rad cap releases and let the rad sit for an hour. At the end of the hour check the pressure and look for leaks.

Pressure still good and no visible leaks you are good to re-install.

Don't continue to check the pressure during the test and the act of testing itself will drop the pressure.
DO NOT USE AN AIR COMPRESSOR!!!! If you do, even with great care and a regulator it is very very easy to rupture the rad.
Dave
 

aasu03

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Kubota L3800HST
Nov 2, 2016
14
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McDonough, GA
By the time I get all that set-up I could likely have re-installed the radiator. Would it be too risky to just run the tractor for a bit hoping it holds and shutdown the moment I see a leak?
 

Dave_eng

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By the time I get all that set-up I could likely have re-installed the radiator. Would it be too risky to just run the tractor for a bit hoping it holds and shutdown the moment I see a leak?
The suggested work is going to take minutes not hours. Your way, the engine does not get hot enough to build up pressure and then one hot summer day you are working your tractor hard and the repair lets go.

If you don't want the work to build the pressure tester yourself, buy one on amazon for $80 or take it to someone who already has the tester.

https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Un...s&keywords=radiator+pressure+tester+kit&psc=1

Dave
 

100 td

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I wish you luck, but for me personally, I couldn't take the chance on seizing an engine. Would do it to get out of trouble if there was no other way, but I'd replace it first opportunity. I really hope it works for 20 years for you though, glues are getting better all the time.