Does this tool exist?

jrleslie

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Jul 13, 2017
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St. Louis, MO
I have exhausted the internet looking for a tool, and I'm beginning to think I dreamed of it. I was just about to give up and thought to myself, "Hey, if this thing exists somebody on OTT has used one before and knows what it is called."

I'm in the midst of tearing off old rotted deck boards. They were screwed in with 3" phillips head screws. No surprise here, the screw heads are filled with layers of paint and dirt. The screws that weren't stripped on install are stripping or breaking off the head on every board leaving 1" exposed.

I've had limited success getting the shaft of a broken or cut off screw in my drill chuck tight enough to back them out, but on a 40x18 deck I don't want to do that on every screw. If they do not come out they grind the chuck tapers pretty quickly. I could sit there with vise grips I suppose, but ugh, that doesn't exactly sound like a party I want to go to either. I don't want to cut that many of them off and leave them in the joists for fear of the new screws finding them instead of wood.

Here is the question: Is there a drill bit or attachment for a drill that tightens around a shaft as it reverses? I'm envisioning a self-tightening or ratcheting clamping action. In my mind, it would function like a chuck when you hold the collar. The tapers would ride a spiral guide extending until they made contact and getting progressively tighter until the screw backed out.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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EXACTLY! Every search query I tried returned the reverse threaded screw extractor style that required drilling into the existing screw head.

Thanks @bmyers! Now to measure the width of these screws and try to find this locally. Thanks for your help!
Hate to rain on your parade, but if you read just the description, that extractor is only good for 1/4+ bolts, your screws are nowhere close to that.
EDIT: Lil Foot was faster typing. :D

I've done quite a bit of deck repairs and redecking, I like getting them out if I can too, I use a hardened Jacobs chuck to get them out when there is just a few to deal with.
But when you can't the best option is to use a cut off wheel on a grinder and just cut them flush with the surface or just below (use a little angle on the blade).
It's better than hammering them in because you don't ruin the integrity of the wood.
As far as hitting them, simply start your new top boards off in a new pattern and your chances of hitting them is pretty low and most of the time the new screw will just move to one side or the other of the original screw.
 
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