Changeing Lift Arm

My Kubota was made before this engineer was born. I am glad. Still weld a flat washer over the pin and follow that up by welding a nut on top of the washer. use a wrench and twist it out if threaded. If not put a bolt in the nut and use a chisel to drive the pin out.

I'm going to be curious how this finally comes out. Please keep us posted.

Try Kroil as a liquid penetrating oil.

The slide hammer idea is a good one. Be sure to consider how long the shaft of the slide hammer is and if you've got enough room to work trying to make a straight-line 'whack' on the stuck pin.

I went out and checked my memory: both my slide hammers have a fine 5/8 thread so consider this when welding a nut (and be prepared for thread distortion due to heat and spatter) or make sure you have enough room to make an adapter of a bolt (to screw into the welded nut) crossed back to a nut that your slide hammer will screw into.

When reinstalling new pin I'd be inclined to have a machine shop drill all the way through end-to-end and install a grease zerk on the outer end. Next time you might be able to pump it out or at least lube it well for removal. Might find such a pin ready-made by looking around.

Please post back as you continue your efforts.

According to the L2900 parts diagram, it appears that the arms are secured with a lynch pin. But your photo shows something far different. Odd.

I could not find the mount on the transmission parts diagram for the L2900.

My questions are:

Was the other arm successfully removed so you know the construction of the pin? If not, then a photo of the intact side would provide a hint for a solution.

If so, then how is the shaft secured? Threaded? Roll pin (I don't see a hole in the photo)? Pressed? I think this is vital information to know before proceeding.

As a far out option, you could drill an access hole on the closed side and drive out the pin if it is not threaded. Then machine a hole in the closed side so an aftermarket pin will fit all the way through and secure it with lynch pins. However, it may be weaker leading to more complex problems.

Soaking the area with Ed's Red (1/3 each of acetone, transmission fluid, diesel fuel or paint thinner) should lubricate the threads if so equipped. But do the soaking after the welding!

You mention a new one. Do you have it and thus know the construction? A photo of it would be a help.

Skip44 said:

Yes, all good ideas. Now just need the time to try some of them

GWD, your diagram does not match up to my tractor, here is a picture of the other intact side. Also not sure if I can drill through the case because I don't know if it is hollow and contains vital components.

The first picture shows the bolt that comes out to allow the pin to come out. The second picture shows the outside of the case, where the pin is captured.

Skip

Click to expand...

Ah, thanks for the photo. So the tab that broke off was attached to the shaft. Then it appears the bolt holds the shaft/tab in position. It does not seem that the shaft would be threaded in that circumstance since rotating the tab would be required to remove the shaft. Had that been the case then there would be a bolt head on the shaft instead of a tab. Such a bolt head could be secured in a number of ways. So the shaft should just slide out.

Of course, a new replacement shaft/tab would answer that issue quite nicely. So would taking off the existing shaft from the intact side.

It seems like you just need something to be able to grab onto the broken end and then slide the shaft out. So perhaps drilling and threading a hole in the broken end of the shaft would allow an inserted bolt to be grabbed. Unfortunately, the shaft is likely hardened metal so welding on a bolt may accomplish the same thing with less of a problem.

Welding on a washer/nut works very well for threaded shafts but not so much for sliding shafts. A short bolt would allow some leverage (or a slide hammer as previously suggested) to grab onto. However, the access to the area looks a bit limited for larger tools.

As far as the solid outside pin containing structure is concerned, and despite comments from the uniformed, there is no way that structure is hollow and contains hydraulic fluid. Drilling a small hole in it so the pin might be driven out is logical.

Kubota making that structure hollow, full of fluid, part of the hydraulic reservoir, and also having a blind hole for the pin cast in one side is completely illogical and contrary to engineering practices and principles. That tab would be so weak that snapping it off would be a common occurrence given the stresses on the lower lift arm. But consider the source.

Looking at the photos, it looks like getting a replacement pin is gonna be the best bet.
Now, removing the old pin. Looks like the tire would need to be removed to allow comfortable access. Looks like the simplest solution for removing the pin is a BFH, a punch and die grinder with cut off wheel, or grinder with thinest cut off wheel you can find.

Drive the pin in till it hits the case. Cut it off and repeat till it's all out. Make sure and use a face shield with the cut off wheel incase it binds and snaps.

Might also be a good idea to check and see if you can locate a proper replacement pin before attempting this.

Daren Todd said:

Looking at the photos, it looks like getting a replacement pin is gonna be the best bet.
Now, removing the old pin. Looks like the tire would need to be removed to allow comfortable access. Looks like the simplest solution for removing the pin is a BFH, a punch and die grinder with cut off wheel, or grinder with thinest cut off wheel you can find.

Drive the pin in till it hits the case. Cut it off and repeat till it's all out. Make sure and use a face shield with the cut off wheel incase it binds and snaps.

Might also be a good idea to check and see if you can locate a proper replacement pin before attempting this.

Click to expand...

Interesting and creative solution. It does look a very thin cut-off wheel might fit between the ball on the arm and the case.

However, the remaining very end of the pin would still be stuck in the transmission case when done. Then the OP would be back to square one on how to get the remaining end of the pin out of the case.

Whatever would work to get out that remaining end would most likely work on the entire pin. Access might be easier to the end of the full pin rather than the remaining end that would be somewhat embedded in the transmission case.

However, if the OP can get out the full pin then the retaining tab could be plug welded back on (after drilling a hole in it). This would avoid buying a new pin/tab...if they are available. I still haven't found a part number or diagram showing it. Maybe someone else could help out.

So, does the pin imbed into the transmission, or does it go all the way through?