grease/oil are your friend, now what??

steveInMaryland

steveInMaryland

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L35, b2710
Nov 23, 2015
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marriotsville, MD, USA
I have a BT900 backhoe with a 24'' bucket and I want to replace it with a 12'' bucket. I got a really good deal on a new original stock 12'' but .....

I have been trying to get the pins out for months now. I have tried the 1/2 acetone / 1/2 ATF trick, tried beating them out (with some mushrooming), tried to actually cut them out with a sawzall; fourteen destroyed blades and maybe a nick on the pin, they must be hardened.

Anyway, I am here to ask the experts, how the heck do you get them out? It's obvious the previous owner did not grease or put oil on anything and it was just a tool to be depreciated and written off. Not me, I want to fix and use this machine for 30 more years.

For the record I work in IT now and raise goats, I don't have a lot of the tools a working farm should have but I am learning and gathering.

May the Orange experts look down on me tonight and enlighten me.

Semper Fi everyone,
Steve
 
steveInMaryland

steveInMaryland

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L35, b2710
Nov 23, 2015
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marriotsville, MD, USA
bxray said:
MY need a hydraulic press?
Or somthing like this

http://t.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html

Ray
Click to expand...
I looked at that very piece but no, the pins are 1 1/4 x 8 1/4. I thought about making a "super" sized one of those out of a rail road rail and some 1/2 metal (no reasonable person could ever pick it up) and decided a better approach would be use my 22 ton log splitter.

As time has gone on, and a broken wrist (from cleaning the gutters), I have decided its not a good idea. I mean potentially, a 44,000 pound accelerated projectile of a one inch rod is pretty dangerous. Trust me, I have fired many a 50 cal.

I asked the question fully expecting people to say use heat, heat and more heat. Unfortunately I have no heat except a plumbers propane torch.

I also think buying one won't work because the problem probably needs two, one for each rusted side of the pin. In the end, I will probably post an add for a well equipped welder and helper to knock this out (no pun intended).

Steve
 
Tooljunkie

Tooljunkie

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It can be a challenge to remove a pin.tried drilling it?
I had a shaft that wouldnt cut on my bandsaw until i cooled it off, slowed saw down and lubricated while cutting.

Abrasive cutoff wheel,hand held grinder. Dont know how big a disc you need.

If its badly rusted, boiling water and an air hammer. It will pulverize rust and pop right out. Removed stuck trailer slugs when all other attempts failed. Including heat and sledge hammers.
 
Mike9

Mike9

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Kubota B6200
Oct 9, 2015
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Boiling water - interesting I'll try that sometime when I need it. I was going to suggest your rust/bust mixture and vibration then put a big honkin' pipe wrench on the head along with a pipe for leverage and try and turn it to help break it free. At least then you have something to work with. Lube and tap, lube and tap. Good luck with it -
 
CountryBumkin

CountryBumkin

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cviola2005 said:
Maybe someone could make one with a bottle jack?
Click to expand...
Maybe - just be sure you have good medical (and life) insurance before you start. :)
Seriously though - I worked at a shop that had a 50T hyd track-pin press and it's scary when you are in the process of applying many Tons of pressure on a pin to get it to pop. I don't know what it will take for the bucket pin to come lose (probably not much), just be careful home-building a device that can apply much force.
 
Daren Todd

Daren Todd

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CountryBumkin said:
Maybe - just be sure you have good medical (and life) insurance before you start. :)
Seriously though - I worked at a shop that had a 50T hyd track-pin press and it's scary when you are in the process of applying many Tons of pressure on a pin to get it to pop. I don't know what it will take for the bucket pin to come lose (probably not much), just be careful home-building a device that can apply much force.
Click to expand...
Had a 100 ton electric over hydraulic press at the last company I worked for. Had an opportunity to press bearings for the sprockets on a 24ft trencher. It was taking somewhere between 50 and 70 tons to pop the old bearings out :eek: I was glad we had a long lead for the remote ;) I would make sure the cage was down, and then would stand off to the side of the explosion proof cabinet that was bolted to the floor next to the press.
 
B

Black Mud Farm

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1995 L2950,Wallenstine 4" Chipper, 2 bottom land plow, 5' bushhog,Cordwood saw.
Sep 30, 2015
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Hartland Maine
If all else fails maybe try to get the pin lined up with the business end of a wood splitter and try to press it out that way just a suggestion be careful of course. Try an acetylene torch and a bfh maybe 10-18 pound sledge hammer. Make a punch handle by welding a 2-3 foot length of rebar or something to the punch. Have someone line the punch up on the pin a cut loose with the sledge.
 
C

cerlawson

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All of these "use a bigger hammer" stuff is showing it won't do it. Underthose circumstances a large torch may well do it. When using such a method your torch has to be big enough and hot enough to handle the loss of heat through all that metal nearby. It may even take two of three torches at the same time. Ordinary propane torches are toys when it comes to what you need. I'd contact an experienced welding shop that has plenty of gas heating torch experience. If you could apply cooling to the pins, that would help, but may not work. Sometimes a few cycles of heating and let it cool work, since some"give " of the metal is permanent. Expect a lot of acetylene and Oxygen will be needed. Torches have to be big high capacity types.
 
C

cerlawson

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If what I describe doesn't work, try this. Just heat as much of that pin as possible, trying to get it red hot. I the process it will loses some of its diameter. A few cycles of heat and cool may do it then. However, I'd think applying heat to the outside members first and whacking on the pin while that outside is hottest, is the usual way. If one is cycling, ya gotta really cycle, that is: very hot to room temp and over and over. This method came to me after examining various metals in building fires well after things are cool. It is surprising how easy they come apart later having had one big heating situation.
 
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CountryBumkin

CountryBumkin

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steveInMaryland

steveInMaryland

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L35, b2710
Nov 23, 2015
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marriotsville, MD, USA
steveInMaryland said:
Yes it does and the ram is 1.500 so my pins should easily slide through it. I'm just hoping 10 tons of pressure is enough. It probably is and now I am just gun shy from beating on it with no luck.
Click to expand...
To clarify, I will have to push through a hundred washers from the ram end but the opening on the far end is 1.5'' so the pin will not hang on it. Using washers sucks but after it actually breaks free a little gentle persuasion with a brass punch should work nicely.
 
C

cerlawson

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I'd want to see the dimensions of the ram coming down as well as the width of the opening at the foot. Off hand, I am very skeptical that it will do the job, especially if some significant hammering of the pin end has not done anything. For that kind of money what does an acetylene cutting and welding outfit cost? You can rent the cylinders from the supplier. That outfit will serve you for a lot more than this small press.
Any pounding should be with an "anvil" of near the same diameter of the pin to avoid enlarging it.

Speaking of pounding, can you reach the "enclosing" parts holding the pin that are stuck? Pounding on "grabber" fitting where it is the thinnest may well cause it to expand some. They call it "peening" when a rounded end of the hammer does the pounding. It gradually expands the part. This is where the bigger hammer comes in. Ya can't hurt it, but possibly even work harden it. Ya leave dents all over the exposed parts of these "grabber" parts. The more dents, the merrier. Combined with your solvents this may do the job. I'd try this before any money is spent.

Peening of thin metal is done a lot to expand it, but I have done it on thick stuff and it works, but takes a lot of whacks. Use a ball-peen hammer. With a small ball-peen hammer, ya hold it on the part and pound on the other end of that with a real big one.
 
C

cerlawson

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Tooljunkie

Tooljunkie

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L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
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If you musroomed the end already, then drill it. 1-1/8" hole saw will will remove enough material to relieve pressure. High quality hole saw isnt a lot of money,cutting fluid or lube will help greatly. Should go 2"deep.

My machinist buddy has had to deal with 4" pins on loader frames, he torches them out. Arc-air and blow away unwanted metal.

Not a pin, but sheared off bolts on a drawbar belonging to a caterpillar D8
Were removed on site where it broke. I drilled 3/4" holes through the broken pieces,2-1/2" deep. Ground a recip (good quality) blade off the back so it would fit the bore and carefully sawed to thread points. Got them out in very little time.
 
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