Mount walk behind tiller on 3 point hitch?

prof.fate

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I'm sober - really!

OK, so working on my garden plan for this year and now that I have a tractor I'm wanting to expand my garden..but I don'thave any plows/disks or such for it.

Nor do I have $1700 for a proper 3 point tiller.

SO...I DO have a walk behind tiller - sure, not 4' wide BUT what if I mounted it to the 3 point hitch?

I could ride instead of walk..wouldn't get beat up (my shoulders are not what they used to be)?

Pros? Cons? Things to consider to make this work?
 

jmf78

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Not really answering your question(s) but, Is renting a proper 3ph rototiller an option? It would probably work better and be more efficient.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

prof.fate

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there is a place an hour-ish away that rents attachments..do they rent what I need? Not sure.
Cost to rent? not sure.

I plan to go into semi-commercial farming so will be tilling up a good bit of land, and doing it often.

IF this works as a business then buying a tiller won't be an issue, but trying to keep start up costs low is key.

I have a receiver adapter on my tractor - not too hard to weld up a mount from the tiller to it I wouldn't think...do it right and the tiller could mount either way so be fwd or rev rotation!!

IF I wanted to get a hyd pump, there is an old case hydraulic tiller for sale locally, with control valve and all the lines, runs fwd or reverse..only $500.

The case 444 it would run off of put out 8gpm of hyd flow..my L175 does a whopping 3gpm.

So maybe this...http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...P-PTO-A-3-6-S-Hydraulic-PTO-Pump-9-8902-3.axd

ahh, if I only was made of money!
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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skeets

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Been there done that prof,, rent everything you can to do what you need,, check with your tax guy and Im thinking you may be able to deduct a lot of the rental price or at least some of it. Look at it this way, you need something, why bust your stones to rig something up that will never do the job that you want or need to do. Second,,, when your done send it back and forget about the 1500 bill you have to pay for that tiller, no storage no up keep no nuttin.

And unless you have a good paying job to pay for the farming end of it you might be in trouble, ensure you have any kind of contacts set up before you start, unless you plan a road side stand. The OL had contracts with local eateries for X amount of what ever herb they needed each week. The pucker factor was pretty tight when something didnt grow,bloom or got ate by some bug and you cant deliver.
I'm not trying to bash a dream, just some of the down falls.Talk to your bank ,just wander in and as to see the business person sit down and talk with them. If I recall 90% of all business fail in the first year 60 some persent the following year.
But to get back to your question ,,,Yes you can build or make just about anything do anything,, but it aint gona do what you want it to do the way you want it to do and in the end cost more than you thought it would. So yeah rent one, check you "K" dealer most have stuff you can rent and a reasonable price or maybe have taken what you need in on trade or know where one is sitting.
Just some thought I wish someone would have sent our way before we started the green houses
 

prof.fate

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always worked for small businesses - owned my own for the past 13 some years now.
Alas, photography is dying..some would say dead..as a way to make aliving. SO..i've got to find something else.

CAN you grow enough food to make a living a couple of acres? Yes.
Can you do that cheaply enough (labor and all)? Yes, seems it's possible

The question really is - can you SELL it?

There are many ways to sell it - I'm still doing research and working on the plans. No need to invest a dime till I"m sure, pretty sure, it will work.

As for '90% of businesses failing" - like most statistics, it's a lie.

50% of marriages end in divorce..technically true, but very misleading. 75% of FIRST marriages last till death. Some folks get married 3, 5, 8 times..THAT is what creates the 50% figure.

As for biz's failure- many don't do ANY research before starting a business. No clue if there is a market for their product, the price or volume of that market.

Much of the 'failure' rate isn't failure - businesses change what they do, sell to another owner, etc.

A big reason they fail is lack of liquid capital - go check into getting a BRAND NAME franchise - they want you to ahve a whole big pile o cash on hand 'just in case' - and most folks that start a biz start on a shoestring. I know MANY that have failed for that reason.

DId you know that 80% of farmers in teh USA gross less than $100k a year off farming? Yeah, sucks, huh? Makes me wonder how the hell they're buying all those big M tractors and implements!

My GF has chickens and we just got approached today by a 'whole food store' (local one) that wants 30 Dozen eggs a week...we can do 5 at the moment, at most (chickens kinda get lazy in the winter).

We could do beef -margin can be $800-1000 per steer - but we need a lot of new fencing, watering and haying, perhaps shelter...there are higher value alternatives.

Plan this year is to learn as much as anything else. Unfortunately, to learn at farming takes years - unlike say, making hamburgers or cutting trees or even building airplanes - can only make the tomatoes/cukes/sunflowers/gourmet popcorn grow so fast. And you lose a year for each failure...

LIke the eggs - start making it, make a surplus, and sell it - build a brand at it were. Selling to restaurants is on the possibilities list, as are farmers markets, subscriptions, local stores. this is a farming area..so to get good money one has to travel to the city (an hour away). The egg buyer is 35 minutes that direction for example.

BUT we ARE getting eggs in this stupid weather - we have a friend with DOULBLE the chickens and he's getting 2-3 eggs a day to our 10-12.

We're investigating meat chickens and sheep (no fence issues). Again, gotta find the MARKET first!!

And if a few hours builds me a mount for my tiller...then I don't have a 2 hour plus round trip, fuel, tolls and rental fees to pay , tax deductible or not, that's still money out of my pocket.



Been there done that prof,, rent everything you can to do what you need,, check with your tax guy and Im thinking you may be able to deduct a lot of the rental price or at least some of it. Look at it this way, you need something, why bust your stones to rig something up that will never do the job that you want or need to do. Second,,, when your done send it back and forget about the 1500 bill you have to pay for that tiller, no storage no up keep no nuttin.

And unless you have a good paying job to pay for the farming end of it you might be in trouble, ensure you have any kind of contacts set up before you start, unless you plan a road side stand. The OL had contracts with local eateries for X amount of what ever herb they needed each week. The pucker factor was pretty tight when something didnt grow,bloom or got ate by some bug and you cant deliver.
I'm not trying to bash a dream, just some of the down falls.Talk to your bank ,just wander in and as to see the business person sit down and talk with them. If I recall 90% of all business fail in the first year 60 some persent the following year.
But to get back to your question ,,,Yes you can build or make just about anything do anything,, but it aint gona do what you want it to do the way you want it to do and in the end cost more than you thought it would. So yeah rent one, check you "K" dealer most have stuff you can rent and a reasonable price or maybe have taken what you need in on trade or know where one is sitting.
Just some thought I wish someone would have sent our way before we started the green houses
 

Tooljunkie

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A friend does free range chickens,999 is the limit. Sells out every season. More expensive, but much nicer birds.dont know about about the profit (loss).
Things i think have improved every year.
 

Redbusdriver

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Several years before I bought my BX I bought a "big red" troy built tiller as I had one when younger and used it extensively.

Now I am older and the big red tiller is a big PITA trying to muscle it around my garden and field. Riding my BX around is sure easier on my old bones.

I never though of rigging it up to the 3 point. Didn't seem feasible with all the controls and dead man safety stuff.

I do plan to sell the troy built and use the funds to partially defray the cost of a proper quality plow, disk and tiller attachments.

Buy once, cry once. Too bad I get to cry twice this time but I will actually use the new attachments.
 

prof.fate

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Nov 9, 2017
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I bought my tiller used for 100, 120 or so about 30 years ago. Needs a carb cleaning as the needle and seat leak badly, but it's always started on the first pull.

safety..back when it was built safety was a common sense idea! All it has is a throttle and clutch to start the tines.

As I continue my research seems I'm gonna wanna plow or subsoil and then till the top 6" (which is all tillers really do anyway).

Most of the garden will be 'simple' this year - cover crop and/or corn or sunflowers and a cover crop that gets plowed in.

the 'old' garden is a mix of previously tilled space and a compost pile so it shouldn't be too bad to deal with.

the work will be the initial turnover, add compost/manure/lime and turn again and then one more turn before planting. More turning means more/faster composting, finer soil (which I'll want/ need for this yer's garden).

So 3 or 4 trips over with a tiller..yeah, mounting it seems like a plan!

Did some googling and seems a few folks have done it- with some old sears tillers - they made a plate that went under the engine and on the 'front' of the tiller had the 3 point attachments welded to the plate. the handles stayed on teh tiller so you can move it and use it like always.

They were doing it much smaller tractors where the tiller was nearly the width of the tractor..alas, that I won't be able to do so i'll me doing a bit of compacting wiht the tractor tires.

Or else put in a swivel for the tiller and have it sweep left and right as I go...or maybe a sideways adjustable mount...or at that point maybe just hang it out BESIDE the tractor...depends on how far apart my beds will be...

Several years before I bought my BX I bought a "big red" troy built tiller as I had one when younger and used it extensively.

Now I am older and the big red tiller is a big PITA trying to muscle it around my garden and field. Riding my BX around is sure easier on my old bones.

I never though of rigging it up to the 3 point. Didn't seem feasible with all the controls and dead man safety stuff.

I do plan to sell the troy built and use the funds to partially defray the cost of a proper quality plow, disk and tiller attachments.

Buy once, cry once. Too bad I get to cry twice this time but I will actually use the new attachments.
 

Redbusdriver

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My first troy built had a nice plate on the front where a big blade was mounted. Troy Built doesn't sell the blade setup anymore but it would make a swell place to start fabbing your 3 point setup.

I guess one could just put hose clamps on the handlebar dead man safety system to fix that nag, but how would you engage and disengage at the turns and row ends?

As an aside, the newer Troy Builts are a far cry from the old ones in quality, so keep your old unit rolling.

Please post pictures and let us know how it works.

Cheers!
 

Ike

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I am sure with enough thought you can do anything as long as you don't get to carried away. I don't remember if it was on here or another sight one guy took one of the little walk behind seeded and hooked it up tohis 3 point hitch. He used some PVC pipe to keep from putting to much down pressure on it. Seemed to work good
 

D2Cat

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I'm taking it by your picture you do not have a loader. I was thinking about a plate with a hinge to attach to the loader lip. Then a couple of springs like off of a trampoline attached to the plate to take any "shock".

For 3 pt, make a bracket to attach to the tiller where the drag bar attaches. Have that moved out from the tiller then adapt a plate so you can adjust height so when you attach to the draw bar the tiller will go down far enough. Build a 3pt hitch like this to attach the two.

https://www.amazon.com/Receiver-Tra...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00M1X6F9Y

Why not get creative and attach 2 tillers for better width coverage?
 

Ike

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A company use to make a tiller that was acutally 2 tillers for the 3 point hitch for strawberries. If I was doing this I would make a hindge and hook to the front of the tiller and to the draw bar. Then run a chain off each 3 pt arm to the rear of the tiller which would raise and lower it. It would also let the tiller jump up if it hits something
 

sgtboz

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I think this sounds like a great project and you sound like the kind of guy with the right spirit to make it happen. I can't tell how many times I was doing something successfully during the day while in the evenings reading comments about how what I was doing couldn't be done. I mean, making money in a tractor business with a B7300!? Find the right customer at the right time, show up and do what you said you would do...BAM...you're in business. :)

Sounds like some good tips so far. I hope you'll keep us posted on progress.
 

D2Cat

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If a man is going to make a living with cattle he better have a pile of funds to get started and then some more for rough times. Most all cattle men have a "day Job" unless they've got 100 head or more, and it's a labor intensive situation. You either buy hay or have ground to raise the grass, then need mower, rake, baler, with a big enough tractor to do the baling. The store it, then feed it in the off season.

Or just buy calves in the Spring and sell them in the Fall, but you won't make a living unless you have large numbers.
 

D2Cat

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I'll toss out an idea. I had an office job and my boss kept changing the rules. So I was in a similar situation.

I bought a Ditch Witch trencher, bought some insurance and put an ad in the paper. The first job I did was a short trench under a driveway. I always looked at the job and gave the person a bid and stuck to it. As time went on I got more work and buried water lines, elec. lines, downspouts, installed automatic waterers. Talked to a couple of builders and buried all their elec from the the transformer to the meter can.

Eventually bid on some jobs for a local electric repair business. They kept me busy.

All this started out part time while I had my "day job". I worked on weekends. Never had any employees. Always called for locates and never had any law suit problems.

Started with a Ditch Witch 2300, then bought an R40 with a backhoe and 6 way backfill blade.

Learning to operate a trencher is not a major task if one learns the basics and stays focused. It always amazed me when people would watch and wonder how I could dig such a straight line, or use the backhoe to fill in a tight spot. People just can't/don't do physical things much anymore.
 

skeets

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Your right on Cat,, same thing kinda happened to Dad when he started keeping bees as a hobby, after a while he was answering calls to remove bees from houses and catch swarms, he retired and worked harder at his hobby that when he worked for a living. In the end he said enough collected all the honey sold it burned the hives. He started with 2 and burned almost 30.
 

prof.fate

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80% of farms/farmers in the US have GROSS incomes under $70,000. 70% are under $50k

So yeah, almost all farmers have 'day jobs' of some kind.

30 years ago the guy I got hay from, very old gent, had beef cattle and hay (30,000 bales a year, $3/bale THEN). No idea the income on the cattle. He'd owned the farm for 50 years..and in the winter would drive truck.

IF you grow your own hay today you're an idiot. It costs more to grow than you'll get for it.

YOu need the gear (50hp or bigger tractor, mower/rake/bailer/trailer) and unless you do only round bales, help also - plus of course the land..and every so often you'll need to replant the hay field to keep good hay to sell.

YOu could get 250-300 bales per acre at $3.50 to $4 for horse hay (much less for cattle hay) - so $1000ish per acre...less your fuel and time.

YOu best need 50k worth of hay or more before even considering it worthwhile to grow it.

If a man is going to make a living with cattle he better have a pile of funds to get started and then some more for rough times. Most all cattle men have a "day Job" unless they've got 100 head or more, and it's a labor intensive situation. You either buy hay or have ground to raise the grass, then need mower, rake, baler, with a big enough tractor to do the baling. The store it, then feed it in the off season.

Or just buy calves in the Spring and sell them in the Fall, but you won't make a living unless you have large numbers.