injection pump timing

steeler

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Apr 23, 2014
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Marysville Indiana
Hi all. I'm helping a friend with his tractor. First let me apologise for the lack of specific info on the machine.
He has a small Kubota 3 cylinder diesel, the pump timing is off by several degrees. I understand that to advance the tiMing I will need to remove shims from the pump to block mounting.
Now what if there are not enough shims to remove to get the timing correct? Is there any other way to tweak the timing?
I have not pulled the pump yet but just eyeballing it, it looks to me like there is only 1 shim there.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
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Has there been work done to the motor recently?
Has it been running bad?
 

steeler

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Apr 23, 2014
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Marysville Indiana
Yes he said it was running fine until he removed the pump while he had the engine out. The engine was run out of oil and spun a rod bearing. Nothing was done to the pump itself. Now it runs fine but smokes white.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,286
4,853
113
Sandpoint, ID
Then it would be possible that they didn't line up the gears that run the pump properly.
It's not very common to have to change the shims, it's more of block matching step.
 

steeler

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Apr 23, 2014
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Marysville Indiana
Ok gotcha. I wasnt sure how this pump was geared. So there is a gear on the front of the pump that comes off with it? I was picturing a keyed shaft for some reason.
Makes sense now that he just has it a tooth off then.
Thanks so much for the help!
 

JoBo

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B5100, D905 powered generator
Mar 15, 2014
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Columbus, Ohio
Having just gone through timing my B5100 (two cylinder, 500cc, same gear setup) I can give you a few hints.
First one shim changes the timing a lot, so start there.
Second the timing marks on the gears as shown above only come around every 138 revolutions of the crank:eek:
This threw me for a loop but if you consider the idler gear has 69 teeth the math works out and the timing could be correct but look wrong.
After you set the gears correctly as shown above and turn the crank two turns that normal thinking (mine) is the lines will line up again, not so:(
This is because the idler gear has 69 teeth that is in no way related to 25 teeth on the crank or 50 teeth on the cam and pump and two of the reference points are on the idler.
This had me going for several hours:confused:

The pump it's self does not have a gear, there's a camshaft that drives the pistons on the pump that stays in the block.
Before attempting to remove the pump read the manual carefully. On mine there's a cover with 4 bolts on the side below the pump that needs to be removed and a spring disconnected. This is because there's a pin on the "rack" that's on the pump that is operated by a slot in a fork and the engine block casting has a area that allows this pin on the pump to be removed. The fork is thin cast iron, expensive and easy to break, ask me how I know this.
 
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