M8200 A/C pressures

The guage pressures are dependent on the ambient temperature and are not specific to any make or model of equipment ( more to do with the boiling point of the refrigerant.) here is a website with a chart you can use for reference.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/r134apresstempconv.html
Hope this helps!

Low side 28-34 psi, high side will vary depending upon ambient temp, and air flow across the condenser. Air temp at the outlet of the air duct should be approx. 45 degrees or less. As a general rule of thumb the compressor on time should be about the same as the off time. There are a lot of variables to deal with, without knowing exactly what type of system you are working on, and what the ambient temp is at the time you are working on it. Also the humidity will affect the pressures and temp. output as well. Various safety switches will affect the cycle times as well. I would need to know which switches are in the system as well. ( high pressure, low pressure, clutch cycling pressure, evap. temp switch, trinary switch) Also is it a clutch cycling orifice tube system, or a thermal expansion valve system?

Bob

I went thru what sounds like the same circumstance that you are going thru now and it about drove me crazy. Ended up loosing all my refridgerant and I even made up a few new cuss words in the process. I felt like kicking my own ass after I found the problem.

Try this and maybe you will get lucky. I'm thinking your condenser and radiator set up is alot like my M 9000. The air started getting to where it just didn't seem like it was cooling like it should. Raised the hood and the compressor clutch was going wild. On off on off on off. Couldn't see much trash on the radiator screen or the condenser. After getting advise from anyone who knew anything about a/c systems. Talking to the dealer, mechanics, checking this and that, buying guages, getting a vac pump and every other thing I could think of here is what I found.

My condenser and radiator was full of grass seed. They both looked very clean but after spending the time to really get down in every crack and crevis it amazed me how much crap was in the fins. It takes me over a hour to really get all the crap washed out of mine and I try to do it at least 2 times each year since the first episode. Get a good water hose and spray nozzle and get behind the condenser (as bast you can) and blow the water thru it toward the front end. Doing the radiator is the hardest. You will need to get in between the fan blades and blow it forward also. Move the fan around and keep washing. I bet if you really spend the time to get to every point that you can get the water to and get a good spray straight thru the radiator you will blow so many chunks of stuff out of it that it will make you wonder how it ever even kept the engine cool to begin with. Mine does this every year. I have all my screens in place and try my best to keep them clean and it still lets this much dirt and mostly grass and weed seed get in and plug things up. When I said it take a hour to do it right that's no BS either. Every time I think it's about done just move the direction of the spray over a little and here comes more chunks out. If you don't remove the little side plates (clean out covers) at the bottom of the radiator it will fill that area up with what comes out of the radiator. Unless you have a bad pressure switch I bet this will end your A/C problems.

Cleaning the radiator out properly was a after thought by Kubota engineers. I think they really dropped the ball on the design of these cooling systems. I hope this will get you going. Keep us posted.

The Kubota mechanic told not to use water, some thing about the design of the radiator.
He said to use air from the back side.

E/S

My old Cat mechanic told me the biggest reason most will say not to use water is the fact that a lot of the time a person will wash their radiator out and not let it dry and put it right back in the dust and then the trash will stick to it worse than normal. He told me if you wash it good that if it is completely dry before the machine is put into service that it should be fine.

Yes, or they use some nasty well water and the mineral deposits will start causing issues.

TakerEasy

So we'rre not supposed to drive our tractors when it rains???????

If that the case then I'm screwed.
JWB

I ordered a new Denzo Style compressor, expansion valve and dryer for my M8200 Kubota. How much oil do I need to add to the compressor and how much R134 is needed to charge the system?

rockys said:

I ordered a new Denzo Style compressor, expansion valve and dryer for my M8200 Kubota. How much oil do I need to add to the compressor and how much R134 is needed to charge the system?

Click to expand...

The WSM will tell you all that. I suggest getting one.

Actually, you'll need the cab supplement to the WSM, not the WSM itself. The Cab supplement lists the necessary capacities and how much synthetic compressor oil to add as well.