Kubota L305DT Secondary Clutch Adjustment???

Zatzke

New member

Equipment
L305DT
Jul 11, 2014
22
0
0
Otsego, MI
NO! Bolt #11 is the one you have to adjust for the second stage.

The bolt you pointed to is engaged by the #12 - Release bearing. It then puts pressure on #3 - Release lever which lifts #2 - Release rod which then lifts #10 - Traction Pressure plate which then lifts #4 - Front cover which releases the second stage clutch #5- Pto clutch disc.

Bolt #11 goes through #10- Traction Pressure plate and the nut will be underneath it. (will probably have to turn the clutch with a screw driver or something to be able to see the adjustment nut)

#9 -Traction clutch disc will be sandwiched between #10 and the flywheel, you will not see it.

While in there you might want to give the zurk on #13 a shot of grease, but not much. (access plate circled in red)

Ok, thanks! When I get home I'll have to see which bolt it is that I'm seeing... The orientation of the schematic has me questioning which bolt it is... I want to say the bolt under the rear cover is the wrong one as I think it is in the same location regardless of what position the flywheel is in...

Thanks for the play by play - very helpful

I'll report back my findings, still crossing my fingers that I won't have to split the tractor :eek:
 

Zatzke

New member

Equipment
L305DT
Jul 11, 2014
22
0
0
Otsego, MI
Zatzke, have you made any progress?
Sorry - tried posting a couple times with my phone but the website kept hanging up...

Unfortunately work has kept me from having time to tinker with the tractor... I am hoping to have some time this weekend to get into it a bit more! Work has been crazy busy, but I guess that's a good problem to have right???

Have a good one everyone!
 

Zatzke

New member

Equipment
L305DT
Jul 11, 2014
22
0
0
Otsego, MI
Hey guys - it's been a while, life has been a bit crazy... Thought I'd put an update out - it doesn't look like I will be able to adjust the secondary clutch without splitting the tractor. I haven't found any literature saying that I can adjust it and I do not see any access to be able to get at it. Here's a picture of the side where the access panel would be as in olthumpa's tractor. I guess I'll just keep shutting the tractor off to engage the PTO... when time allows I will get in there and replace the clutch and adjust everything correctly.

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On a positive note though, I have since picked up a 5' box blade from Tractor Supply and a used RD7200 finish mower that's in great shape!

Next on the list is a back blade (need it before winter hits here in MI) :D I'm thinking about the everythingattachments Deluxe Value Scraper Blade V2.0. Anybody have experience with these blades?

I've also been experiencing a couple other issues - the first is what I would consider slightly high temps (210-230 ish) when only mildly working the tractor. the other is that after the tractor has been running and all the fluids have heated up, the 3pt lift is EXTREMELY slow and sometimes won't lift at all unless I bring the engine up to ~2000 RPMS. This is with a light load (RD7200 weight or less) on the arms.

I haven't done much research at all on these new issues, but I'll probably start a new thread if I can't figure out the problems. I work in the contracting world so this time of year is hectic with everyone crunching to get their projects in before winter.
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
73
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
I would wash the radiator out good to make sure nothing is in the fins. If it's been a while since the anti-freeze has been changed might not hurt to flush the system out and install new coolant.
 

Zatzke

New member

Equipment
L305DT
Jul 11, 2014
22
0
0
Otsego, MI
I would wash the radiator out good to make sure nothing is in the fins. If it's been a while since the anti-freeze has been changed might not hurt to flush the system out and install new coolant.
Yep - this is on the list of things to do. I've done plenty of Cooling system flushes before but it's always been with straight water and never on something with a fair amount of scale build up. Has anyone used any additives to assist with getting most of the scale dissolved and flushed out? I've used acid in the past on scale for other applications, but would be hesitant to circulate it in through the cooling system without doing a fair amount of research into chemical compatibilities of gaskets/thermostats/etc. Acids tend to get nastier with temperature - so I could see where this may not be a circulate it while running scenario...
 
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