Will spraying silicon spray in the intake contaminate the oil?

To get the best help here dont keep starting a new post dealing with the same no start issue as information is not in one place for those providing advice to look back over.

From looking at your earlier posts I am not convinced the glow plugs are working. Also concerned your valves are set properly. If one of the glow plugs has a missing nut securing the power wire, then none of then will work.

Consider buying an infrared temp gun to be able to check that the glow are operating.

Less than $20 at Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Las...84862911&sr=8-3&keywords=infrared+thermometer

Rather than spray some crazy junk into your engine, remove the air filter and direct a hair dryer into the intake as you crank the engine. The hot air will overcome most glow plug problems.

Dave M7040

I probably wouldn't spray it on the air filter, catches dust, accelerates need to replace. The propellant is propane, so it might give you a marginal bump on a cold start, (might). Will it contaminate the oil? Doubtful, it'd have to go past the piston rings or a valve stem in a significant quantity which is, well... doubtful unless you're really spraying a lot in. Like he said - check glow plugs if not starting well. They're cheap and not hard to change if confirmed bad.

Lzybmbjj30 said:

I was told to spray it onto the air filter or remove the air filter to spray it a few short bursts. He said it doesn't dry the cylinders like ether does.

Here's the link to the product:

http://www.smslabs.com/product/silicon-spray/?gclid=CPD2nOuIz9ECFY-Kswodam8NGw

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It sounds as if you are attempting to use silicone spray inplace of ether as a 'starting assist'. It is considered very bad to use ANYTHING sprayed into the intake to assist with starting Kubota engines. SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE can result. (Like chunks blown out of the engine block)

Using just a small amount can leave behind damage within the engine that a mechanic can detect. (warantee voided)

The use of starting spray should be reserved for diesel engines built before 1960s

Lzybmbjj30 said:

I tested all 3 glow plugs and set the voltmeter to ohms. All three glow plugs measured .6. I tested the multimeter resistance at .3ohm. In the manual it says the glow plug resistance is .9 ohm. the battery shows 12v.

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But is the 12v getting from the battery to the glow plugs? Did you try the test I suggested in your other thread yet?

Lzybmbjj30 said:

I tested all 3 glow plugs and set the voltmeter to ohms. All three glow plugs measured .6. I tested the multimeter resistance at .3ohm. In the manual it says the glow plug resistance is .9 ohm. the battery shows 12v.

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If you had the power connection removed and the three glow plugs were connected together during the test (so all 3 were tested at the same time) your numbers sound OK. Three plugs with a resistance of 0.9 each, connected in parallel would be an equivalent resistance of 0.3 ohms. Add the meter's lead resistance of 0.3 and the reading of 0.6 sounds good.

Just wondering why you didn't zero the meter.

Lzybmbjj30 said:

I took the glow plugs out and they all rean 1.3 ohms. Not sure if that's good or bad. Also i thought that if there is a compression issue the engine would crank very fast. The engine cranks slightly slower than normal.

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I don't think 1.3 is horrible, but not good. Seems from previous threads say they should be <1.0, or close to 0. You'd have to research that further, as I'm not sure off the top of my head.

Engine cranking slow also looks back to the battery or starter, but there's other issues to rule out also.

To start, a diesel engine needs fuel, compression, and air. Nothing else.

Hang in there - you will get there with a methodical and objective approach.

Trust me, been there by thinking "this Fu@%er will either run or be junk.." Usually I made junk with that approach....

Good luck and best wishes!

Lzybmbjj30 said:

i thought that if there is a compression issue the engine would crank very fast. The engine cranks slightly slower than normal.

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My thought with fast starter cranking has been associated more with timing chain/belt than bad cylinder compression. Since valves aren't moving, makes no compression, and just spins.

With zero valve-clearance engines, can be a big mess......

Since yours is cranking slow, my first thought is not timing chain. Does not rule out low cylinder compression however.

I would go back to the starter and battery. Wire connections, especially ground. As Hokie would say - Clean, bright and tight.

Once those are ruled out - have the battery load tested. If good, you're looking at a new starter.

85Hokie said:

perfectly said - in order ....step by step!

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And my wife tells me I'm not very smart...she doesn't use those words.......well, a lot of other things, too...35 years.....

I'm not trying to be smart or anything here, and I don't want to overstate the obvious. But this is the same tractor that half a dozen members tried repeatedly to explain how to set the valve lash properly on and there's no way for us to know if that was really done properly (if they aren't right, it aint gonna start).
As hard as he was trying it was really obvious that this sort of thing maybe wasn't something he understood real well. The current discussions about the glow plugs, starter and injector pump priming follow along that same line and apparent mechanical skill level.
I'm going to go back to the same advice I gave during the valve lash discussion. Find someone who understands diesel engines and at least have them look over your shoulder and explain these things to you as you go along. That way you can learn how to do it the right way. As it is, between the valves, glow plugs, injectors, starter and injector pump there are too many things that could be wrong for folks here to ever hope to help diagnose it in a reasonable fashion.

I'm curious...
Did it run before you took it apart?

If so then you:
1. Probably need to have someone help you confirm the valve lash settings.
2. Make sure everything is assembled correctly.
3. Make sure the pump is primed correctly.
4. Make sure the lines to the injectors are bled.
5. Check the glow plug system (although if you're working in a heated garage it should at least try to start or at least smoke some probably even
without the glow plugs).
Starter? it doesn't have to crank all that fast to start or at least try.

Besides that...

Was the head disassembled while off (valves taken out)? If it was then you needed to have the valves and seats resurfaced before reassembly. If you did take them out and didn't have them resurfaced then they're not going to seal and it's not going to start.
Was it a head gasket issue that prompted the initial disassembly?
If so did you have the head surface checked for cracks, straightness and flatness while off?
If not then the head gasket may not seal properly and it may not start.
Hopefully, you didn't bend any valves when trying to figure out how they should be set.
See, we're chasing the wind here there are soooo many possible issues that this is almost impossible.

You need someone there to walk you through it all.
That's not a knock, I'm sure you CAN learn how to do it. But some things some people need instruction and hands on help with to learn right. 4 cycle diesel engine operation, assembly and tuning may be those things for you.

I believe it was originally a head gasket, if there is any valve clearance at all, it should run. Glow plug operation and a good strong battery are critical for startup.my 2 cylinder needs a good battery for a cold start so a larger engine even moreso.
Providing a video for Mr Wolfman will help you with your problem.
Perhaps there is a video in regards to bleeding injectors,would direct you to be certain you are getting proper fuel delivery.
Did you check fuel shutoff for proper operation? As well as (if it has) compression release to make sure its properly adjusted.

Lzybmbjj30 said:

It makes me think that power isn't getting to the glow plugs. Any thoughts?

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Finally! I've asked about that in both threads now.

The power goes through the glow indicator on the dash. If the glow indicator is burnt out or disconnected then power doesn't make it to the glow plugs. Set your meter to volts, turn the key to the glow position and meter the voltage between a good ground point (eg: the - battery terminal) and the indicator connections. It should have full battery voltage at one terminal and 9 or 10 volts at the other.