I'm looking to get some chains 23 x 8.5 x 12 for the front wheels of my b2620 and see many advertised as garden tractor tire chains in that size. They have no specs in the type or size of chain used, only that they are hardened. They run roughly 50 to 60 for a pair?
B2620 front tire chains?
- Thread starter mike paulson
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Mike,
there is a lot of talk about why NOT placing chains on the front drivetrain of your SCUT. The strain on the front end will certainly cost a lot to fix in the long run! I have known people that run them all the time and never had a problem, but I would think that if you ran chains on the front, I would make sure that it was only on the snow and only for that time period. As for as the type, as long as it fits the tire correctly it should work! And as for as being hardened, I cannot imagine a chain not being hardened! But that being said the pattern ON THE TIRE is where the rubber meets the road....ok pun intended, the better chains all have a better grip due to the pattern and physical shape of the chain.
Look at these and see if there is something that fits:
http://www.tirechainsrus.com/garden-tractor-tire-chains.html
If you are running chains on both ends, run the same type, the ratio on the 4WD systems changes big time with a 3/8 piece of metal being added to the radius!!!
I would only run the chains when plowing snow to help keep the front end from being shoved over as snow builds in front of the front mount blade i use. Correct me if I'm wrong Hokie but isn't it OK to run chains on front as long as I have chains on back?
85Hokie
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I am no "chain" expert - I like you, want to have the best traction I can in whatever I am doing, I live on a 2 acre piece of property that the only thing flat around here is the floors in the house!
I run around in four wheel drive almost all the time, but when I get near the road, I stop and switch to 2wd - no matter how careful one is about using 4WD, something has to "give"For example - a story to explain what I am talking about, a friend of mine was telling me that his truck was making funny grinding noises in 4 WD while on the street, as I tried to listen to him, he mentioned that he got TWO new tires on the rear of his truck, then it dawned on me, the transmission is trying to fight to sets of wheels that have different diameters! Thus is was screeching while in 4WD, the different sizes cause a bind in the transfer case.......thus one set not rolling the same as the other.....
now getting back to the tractor, the tires when brand new have a turning ratio of something that the factory figures will work "good" for the ratio in the transmission.
Lets look at a hypothetical situation,
let's say the we have 24" tires on the rear and 12" tires on the front......( just for shheeets and giggles)
the 24" tire has a rolling circumference of about 75.4" .......the 12" tire has about circumference of about 37.7" - EXACTLY a two to one ratio.....makes sense too......
but - and here is where the pain starts .........
lets add a set of chains that stick up on the tires, o lets say 3/8" .......
now we have tires that are 24 3/4 and 12 3/4 in diameter.......
now doing the math....the RATIO HAS CHANGED!!!!! ok - by just a little bit, now it sits around 1.94 to 1 .......this is where the wear and tear happens!
that little .06 is going to cause something to bind! Now on snow and ice, the rubber tires will slip, rubber on snow/ice - something can give easily and all is forgotten, but - when those chains are placed on the both ends, they are "biting" much better than rubber.......so that wear is going to happen inside the axles, splines ....etc......
just my 2 cents.........
If only on snow and ice and for limited time........might be ok. But .....I would be careful and use only where it was absolutely necessary.
Seems like stupid arguments here. Running in four wheel drive when there is no "give" in the drive train or on the ground and when that is not built in for all-wheel drive should be clear enough for anyone as not good. But, for muddy ground, snow plowing and those special cases as climbing a hill on wet grass, yes, but not steady.
Anyhow get your chains from companies that sellhem over the internet, such as: www.tirechainsrequired.com
Anyhow get your chains from companies that sellhem over the internet, such as: www.tirechainsrequired.com
Chains arent going to stop you from sliding sideways. Just ask a grader operator. 20 tons still slide if the conditions are right. Not worth the investment if you ask me. I run a heavy plow on my truck, if its not pushing the front over, the back end is kicking around.loaded it with firewood and not much better. Just harder to stop.
Not to mention better traction will lead to better chance to bend or break something. Lower the guide shoes so blade doesent dig in.
Worst thing is my kid with the snowmobile down the driveway, i cant cut it off, have to take a few runs with blade square.
Not to mention better traction will lead to better chance to bend or break something. Lower the guide shoes so blade doesent dig in.
Worst thing is my kid with the snowmobile down the driveway, i cant cut it off, have to take a few runs with blade square.
BAP
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2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Mike I run tire chains on the front of my B2920 to keep the front end from sliding around so much on my steep driveway. I have had no problems from using them. Before I put them on, I had to be careful that the front end wouldn't slide around on me particularly when backing up to make another pass. Anybody that says there is no benefits from running front chains is wrong, they help a lot with steering and sliding. The biggest thing to remember, is not to horse the tractor to hard. If you sit there and try to dig holes to "China" with all 4 wheels, then you are eventually going to have troubles and something will give out. Anybody can break their tractor if they try hard enough. As far as quality, not all chains are made alike. Not all are harden chains. The size that will fit the front of your tractor is the same size used on the rear of many lawn tractors, and most of them that you can buy in local stores are not hardened. A good place to look for chains is www.tirechains.com. They have good quality chains and are in Pennsylvania so shipping won't be too bad. My father bought a pair from them for the rear of his B7500 last year by calling them. He got good service and good advice from the person on the phone as to what chains to order for his need. His order came quick and the chains were very heavy duty.
I run tire chains on the front of my B2920 for snow blowing. I have a long twisty trail to clear and the front tire chains allow machine to turn easier with the backhoe on ( I leave the hoe on because after a storm in winter the hoe is invaluable in helping remove downed trees ).
Unless you buy the more expensive H pattern chains you will find little benefit in preventing sideways sliding, especially with R4 industrial tires or ag tires as most of the chain will sit inside the lugs.
As far as the difference in tire diameter causing problems, it is really no different than running in 4 wheel drive without chains. You are usually turning often and the wheels are always having to slip during the turns. Run in 4 wheel drive on a high traction surface and you will have excessive wear.
Unless you buy the more expensive H pattern chains you will find little benefit in preventing sideways sliding, especially with R4 industrial tires or ag tires as most of the chain will sit inside the lugs.
As far as the difference in tire diameter causing problems, it is really no different than running in 4 wheel drive without chains. You are usually turning often and the wheels are always having to slip during the turns. Run in 4 wheel drive on a high traction surface and you will have excessive wear.
kubotasam
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B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
I run chains in the winter , front and rear on all three of my B7100's. No problems , have done it for years.
That does it, I'm going back to my 1959 Massey 50! Naa only kidding but I do appreciate all the input fellas. I will run chains front and rear but only use the 4wd when on a snowy surface. I also, never ride on anything more than loose gravel.Welp there ya go my friend,, a good split of opinions so I guess ya just have to flip a coin and see what happens,, and ofcourse I wish you nothing but the best no matter what your choice is
One warning: It may be that what you order will fit. However, with long cross chains you may be damaging the rubber seals on the tie rod to swivel joint. I'd measure just what will work and call the chain guys and see that what they have will meet that. Otherwise, be prepared for some shop work. You will then need a grinder to cut off one link, maybe 2. It is no big deal, just takes time. Allow for the side chains in that measurement.
Gundoctor
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Kubota M7040 4x4/ BX2230 4x4/ JD MX 8/ Ford 101 Moldboard 3 bottom Plows -
If you are logging to get some firewood out this is the way to go. But to just plow your drive-way of snow take a look at this web-site.
David Pidgeon
http://www.maxigripstore.com/categories/Tractor-Tire-Studs/
David Pidgeon
http://www.maxigripstore.com/categories/Tractor-Tire-Studs/
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
gundr.
good point, but on an earlier post somewhere in the archives......who was it.....shoot cant remember, used tapcons - those "blue" concrete screws as studs, a heeeelll of a lot cheaper and the right length will last a good long time.
get at lowes or home depot ......