Hello from Enterprise, Alabama! This is my first post. Bought a B7300 with a belly mower yesterday, with 205 hours on the clock (paid $3,800). Tractor probably sat for extended periods of time a some point. Noticed it didn't start right up when seller demo'd it . . . some white puffs of smoke and slow cranking (he said battery was old). Once started, ran strong. I tested it for about 30 minutes . . . no blow by, blue smoke, sputters, coughs, or any other signs of trouble -- ran smooth & strong the whole time, including several shut offs and restarts. Brought it home and next morning would not start regardless of what I did. Lots of white puffs of smoke while cranking. There's fuel in the tank and fuel kill knob is pushed in. Gave it 30 seconds of glow plug. Hooked up jumper battery to ensure plenty of juice. Didn't even sputter like it was trying to start -- just cranked. I'm a NOOB however. Anything else I should try before taking it to the Kubota dealer? Some NOOB mistake I am making? Also, I think I will need an operator's manual. Any suggestions for a source? Thanks for any help! Will post some photos when I have everything under control. Tractor looks very nice -- hope this isn't a case of beauty only being skin deep!
B7300 won't start -- Newbie needs some help.
- Thread starter Cr555
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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It sounds like it has something bad in the fuel, Water, OLD diesel, Gasoline in the fuel or Algae can all cause white smoke.
Drain all the fuel and replace filter and then bleed the system, video on here how to do that.
Drain all the fuel and replace filter and then bleed the system, video on here how to do that.
I checked all of the safety switches (that I am aware of). The PTO is disengaged. Forgot to mention that the seller had just got the Kubota back from the dealer. All the filters and fluids had been changed and the belt and blades on the belly mower had been replaced. Seller showed me the invoice & description of services performed, and the filters, belt and blades did appear to be new. However, I checked the fuel filter bowl this morning, and although it looked like there was indeed a new filter, the fuel at the bottom looked cloudy (maybe some gelled fuel?). Also, I notice there is what appears to be a fuel cut off value to the line leading into the glass fuel filter bowl. The lever is pointing straight up at the 12 o'clock position. Does this represent "open" or should it be at the 9 o'clock position (the only other position)? I'm thinking (as a novice) that perhaps while I was driving the tractor for 30+ minutes to test it, I sucked some old/bad fuel into the fuel filter from the bottom of the tank (the didn't have a lot of fuel in it -- maybe only a gallon or so). This tractor must have sat for a substantial period of time if the hours on the clock are accurate. I don't know how to clean the lines and such (yet), so I'll probably have to take it into the dealer. Anyone know the proper position of the valve (above)? If it is "closed," that could be my problem, but don't know how it could have gotten closed between the test drive and arrival home. Don't want to tinker with it until I know which is the "open" position because I don't want to mess anything up (e.g., letting air into lines?) -- will probably become more aggressive as I become more familiar with my "new" Kubota. By the way, how serious of a problem would I have if I have gunky fuel in the lines? Thanks for helping this novice out.
North Idaho Wolfman
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First thing to do is get the WSM (workshop service manual) it will give you a ton of information on how to check and fix everything on the tractor.
It's a very good investment!
P/N 97897-12031 $83.90
http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=676193
It's a very good investment!
P/N 97897-12031 $83.90
http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=676193
Thinking logically, if the valve is in the 12 o'clock position the valve would be open. Horizontal (either 3 or 9 o'clock) would be off.
Don't be in a rush to take it to the Dealer. With a few question, a little searching on this site, and you'll have enough info. to do it your self. Don't forget YouTube, someone there probably has a video.
Don't be in a rush to take it to the Dealer. With a few question, a little searching on this site, and you'll have enough info. to do it your self. Don't forget YouTube, someone there probably has a video.
Last edited:
coachgeo
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L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
yeah most flow valves with levers..... are manufactured to when the lever is in line with in and outport then flow is open.
Does your's have a decompression lever? If it is spinning fast and not catching then the decompression lever may be activated on the head.
Does your's have a decompression lever? If it is spinning fast and not catching then the decompression lever may be activated on the head.
Here is a photo of the glass fuel filter bowl from my B7300. Any opinions as to the "stuff" at the bottom of the bowl . . . is this normal? If it is not normal, can you tell me what I have, and what needs to be done? Much thanks!
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Just to put a "face" on it, here's a photo of my new B7300. Haven't had a chance to clean her up yet 'cause I can get her off the trailer until I can get her started!
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Just in case someone spots a safety switch I failed to notice, here's a view of the dash and most of the controls. Can't wait to get her started again so I can take her for a spin around my property!
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My suggestion of a safety switch was ill advised.
Shouldn't crank of the swith is working proper.
I would however still clean the battery cables and connections.
Did you check to see if the decompression lever is pushed in?
Judging by the crud in the bottom of your fuel bowl I think it would be wise to drain it out And hit it with some fresh fuel. Bleed it as long as it takes. Try again.
Shouldn't crank of the swith is working proper.
I would however still clean the battery cables and connections.
Did you check to see if the decompression lever is pushed in?
Judging by the crud in the bottom of your fuel bowl I think it would be wise to drain it out And hit it with some fresh fuel. Bleed it as long as it takes. Try again.
That screw next to the fuel shut off on the filter looks like it is the air bleeder for when you replace the filter. Back it out and fuel should come out when the petcock is open, tighten it up as the fuel is coming out with no air.Now you will know which way the petcock is open.
In general if it is a safety switch it will not turn over. If it is a fuel related issue it will turn over but not start.
Dump the fuel filter into a plastic bucket and look for any trace of water. If there is water in there it is probably better to drain the fuel and start with new fuel and a new filter.
If the filter is entirely diesel then look for an air leak somewhere in the fuel system. Bleed the injectors and see if there is any air in the fuel lines. If there is you have a small air leak somewhere. They can be tricky to find.
Dump the fuel filter into a plastic bucket and look for any trace of water. If there is water in there it is probably better to drain the fuel and start with new fuel and a new filter.
If the filter is entirely diesel then look for an air leak somewhere in the fuel system. Bleed the injectors and see if there is any air in the fuel lines. If there is you have a small air leak somewhere. They can be tricky to find.
North Idaho Wolfman
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First unscrew the filter housing, note which way it takes to shut off the fuel flow, shut it off. remove the filter reinstall bowl without filter, follow the rubber line till you reach the lift pump, Round faced device, remove the
rubber line, put line into bucket open valve a drain tank, when done, take off bowl again and drain it, throw old fuel on burn pile and burn, or take to recycle, Get new fuel,replace filter, reinstall hose fill with new fuel and open valve filling bowl.
Follow other hose up from lift pump to injection pump, there will be a bleeder fitting right where the line goes into the injector pump, open bleeder and crank engine.
rubber line, put line into bucket open valve a drain tank, when done, take off bowl again and drain it, throw old fuel on burn pile and burn, or take to recycle, Get new fuel,replace filter, reinstall hose fill with new fuel and open valve filling bowl.
Follow other hose up from lift pump to injection pump, there will be a bleeder fitting right where the line goes into the injector pump, open bleeder and crank engine.
Thanks for all the assistance. As one reply noted, I need a workshop manual. However, in there interim I found a Kubota Owner's Manual on the internet for the D722 engine, which I believe is the engine in my B7300. Any reason why I can't rely on this manual for help until I find a proper workshop manual. The URL is www.niftylift.com/?taosFileId=81763
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
From that picture....that fuel looks like .....well, BAD! hard to tell, but I would do what others said. Get cha a good battery, and get rid of the old fuel, and replace - bleed the air out if any, and hit the glows for a 10 second time and see what happens.
Most people that are looking to sell something dont go and place new fuel in a tractor, they just want to see it.
hope that works - and report back.
You will love that machine .....once it is running !
North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more