Regen vs Parked Regen

Pburchett

Member

Equipment
MX5200HST
May 7, 2016
32
7
8
South Central KY
My MX5200 HST regenerates the dpf about every 15 - 17 hours. Does not seem to matter as to what rpm I run 2000, 2300, or pto speed. So far I have 180 hours on it in the 15 months I have owned it. Most usually I am doing something when the Regen happens and I just crank the rpm's up to the pto mark and go about my work.

2 or 3 times it has gone into regeneration as I am about to take a break, so I just set the rpm's at pto speed and let it set and do its thing.

Now I got to wondering if this is the same as a parked regeneration and what is the difference in a "working" vs a parked regeneration? Would it be engine temperature? I do not know about other people but I normally work in low range so air flow is not necessarily a factor there.
 

sheepfarmer

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L3560, B2650, Gator, Ingersoll mower
Nov 14, 2014
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No, it is not the same as a "parked regen". The auto regen can be done either moving or stationary. A parked regen cannot be done until the dpf reaches a higher, level2 soot content. It is done under the control of the computer, and has a laundry list of things to be done first, including returning the throttle to idle and pushing the parked regen button. When the computer is satisfied with the conditions it raises the rpm itself. Not sure what else is different about the computer control of the injectors during this time.
 
Last edited:

Dalroo

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MX4800DT
Aug 24, 2015
137
2
0
Brookesmith, TX
my 4800 with 120 hours has only regenned twice - 47 and 92 hours. Like you, just keep working and no prob. If close to break, think I will just delay regen with override switch until next convenient opportunity. Going through parked regen process doesn't appear overly complicated, but not crazy about running at pto speed with no work getting done. Kind of a waste of fuel.
 

sheepfarmer

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For the L60 series (from the WSM) you have 30 minutes of running from the time the light starts to blink to complete a regen before a parked regen will be required. That means if it takes about 15 min to do a regen, you can postpone it with the inhibit button for about 15 min and it will still successfully complete an auto regen. It won't regen until the engine has warmed up to a certain temp. So knowing that, you can figure out if shutting it down for a break or overnight will result in having to do a parked regen and plan ahead.

I have never had to do a parked regen, and most people on the forum have not either, but I have had to get inventive with some of my work. I would like it better if I could initiate the regen when the dpf is above 98% full or so, depending on what I have for it to do.
 

Dr Honda

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Equipment
BX1870
Mar 30, 2015
174
0
0
Pitt, PA
.................not crazy about running at pto speed with no work getting done. Kind of a waste of fuel.

What they need is a "Plug-in" regen system... where electricity is used to heat it, and burn out the carbon. (so you can park, and shut off the engine) I've never seen it in a vehicle, but I have seen DPF's for stationary equipment set up with heaters.


FYI... I've owned 2 modern diesel trucks, with the DPF system (and DEF)... and I'm glad I got my tractor before they added it.
 

scdeerslayer

Member

Equipment
MX5200DT
May 23, 2016
434
1
18
SC
The MX tractors don't have nearly as sophisticated of a system as the Grand L or M tractors. I don't think they have the sensors the others have, instead I think regens are called for based on some sort of fuel consumption algorithm rather than soot level sensors. It surely seems like if I'm running more PTO speeds regens are slightly more frequent than if I'm running 1800-2000 RPM doing loader or backhoe work.
 

scdeerslayer

Member

Equipment
MX5200DT
May 23, 2016
434
1
18
SC
If close to break, think I will just delay regen with override switch until next convenient opportunity.
I would suggest that too, and have done that, but that only works if you see the increase RPM light flashing. If you're working at PTO speeds it goes straight into regen, and I'm certainly not going to stop a regen, nor suggest anyone else do it. I've taken that opportunity before to go ahead and put the forks on and move some of those things around that I've been meaning to get out of the way.
 

8upbowhunter

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Equipment
L4701 FEL, Cutter, Discs and Land Plane
Dec 15, 2016
395
55
28
S/E Louisiana
I was in the middle of a regen and had to get off the tractor to do something. Just put everything in neutral, park brake on and with rpm's high enough to keep the regen going. Got off and did my quick chore and it was done when I got back on the tractor. Not a parked regen but a semi parked regen [emoji13].


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Pburchett

Member

Equipment
MX5200HST
May 7, 2016
32
7
8
South Central KY
scdeerslayer;I think regens are called for based on some sort of fuel consumption..[/QUOTE said:
That was what I was thinking also. Mine regens less at lower rpm's. I ask my regional corporate Kubota tech but they seemed to not know a lot. The way the guy talked made me wonder if he even owned a tractor.
 

sheepfarmer

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The MX tractors don't have nearly as sophisticated of a system as the Grand L or M tractors. I don't think they have the sensors the others have, instead I think regens are called for based on some sort of fuel consumption algorithm rather than soot level sensors. It surely seems like if I'm running more PTO speeds regens are slightly more frequent than if I'm running 1800-2000 RPM doing loader or backhoe work.
I don't have a wsm for an MX, but we could figure it out from the free parts diagrams on the Kubota or Messicks websites. Or you could go out and look at your tractor, find the dpf and look for some stiffish looking round cables going to it in a couple of places. They would be the pressure sensors. One of the Kubota technical experts that you get via email told me that regens are triggered by the computer by both the pressure difference in the dpf, AND the total fuel consumption. The main difference between the base Ls and the Grand Ls is the Intellipanel, but I don't think there are big differences in the overall regen strategy.
 

lugbolt

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ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
4,807
1,575
113
Mid, South, USA
That was what I was thinking also. Mine regens less at lower rpm's. I ask my regional corporate Kubota tech but they seemed to not know a lot. The way the guy talked made me wonder if he even owned a tractor.

That system is very similar to the L01 series (3301, 3901, 4701). Has nothing to do with fuel consumption. If that were the case, it would never regen if a tractor was at idle speed.

Here's what's in it. Obviously from the exhaust manifold, there is a BIG metal can. Inside the can is the DOC and the DPF. No muffler to speak of; since they both do a good job of muffling the sound. DOC is diesel oxidizing catalyst. Basically a catalytic converter. Actually if you look closely at the can, you'll see 2 big marmon clamps holding the 3 sections together. DOC is the section closest to the exhaust manifold and the DPF is the 2nd section. The last is just part of the can that the tailpipe is connected to.

If you look at the can, you'll see several sensors. Two of them are EGT sensors. EGT is exhaust gas temperature. One is in the DOC and senses pre-DPF EGT. The other is in the DPF and senses EGT in the DPF itself. Basically pre and post DPF if you want to simplify things. Then there are two hoses at the top of the engine area that go to a sensor, the other end of the hoses go to the can/muffler. Those are differential pressure sensors. One is pre DPF and the other post DPF.

Exhaust gas passes through the manifold, through the DOC, then into the DPF, then out the tailpipe. DOC changes the content of the gases, removes most of the carbon monoxide, among other things. The DPF removes the soot from the exhaust by way of a fine mesh filter of sorts. That's why there's no black smoke when started or under a load. The EPA don't want no black smoke. Communist jack wagons! We like it...but anyway.

Now about the EGT sensors. The computer monitors them constantly. The reason for this is to tell the computer how hot the exhaust gas is. If it's too hot, it will defuel a little until it figures out why it's so hot. Also, during regen, they're used to keep from overheating the DPF and DOC, adjusting post injection quantity and injector pulsewidth accordingly. They're important.

The differential pressure sensor basically tells the computer how "full" the DPF is. That's why there's one before and one after the DPF. They're also important.

When the DPF gets dirty, the filter screen gets plugged, which causes a restriction in the exhaust. Think of stuffing a tater into the tailpipe. The dif pressure sensor notices this. When the pressure gets high, EGT will also climb. The computer has this programmed into it, and knows that a regen will need to be done; based on the programming and the sensor inputs. This is where we get into fail-safe's in the higher soot levels. At level 3, 4, 5 the engine power is derated. This is done because the EGT will already be high under a load with a dirty DPF; if derating (or defueling) was not done, the EGT will climb so high that the engine will eat itself. The DPF will melt the substrate. So when the light comes on, do a regen, just let it do it if possible. If not, hit the inhibit button and regen as soon as possible to get the junk out of the DPF. Or if you like to spend money, just leave it alone, let it beep until the engine will no longer physically start/run.
 

Buffalo

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Equipment
L3901, FEL, mower deck
Mar 17, 2016
88
22
8
Oklahoma
Dang. Someone FINALLY said something that made sense! Thanks Sheepfarmer and Lugbolt !