Custom Rear Remotes for B50

I've been working on a set of rear remotes for my B2650 ever since I bought a flail mower with 2 sets of hydraulics on it. Unfortunately I've put this project on the back burner given the winter weather, but hope to complete it in early spring.

This is sort of where I decided to put everything once the parts showed up. The valve body is in a plastic bag because it was pretty much coated in oil.

I bought 2 sets of Pioneer Lever Actuated Quick Couplers with mounting brackets.

http://ph.parker.com/us/en/pioneer-...hydraulic-up-to-3000-psi-iso-5675-9500-series

The rear remote valve is a Prince Wolverine mono-block 8 GPM with 2 spring center spools - one has a float detent. It has inlet, tank (pressure-relief) and power beyond ports.

http://www.princehyd.com/Products/Hydraulic-Valves/Mono-Block

Here is the cardboard template I made. Much easier to work with cardboard to make it fit in weird places, then measure off of that and make the metal pieces.

Fabrication process...

And how everything should look once I bolt it down and plumb the lines.

I plan to try it out for a bit and fine tune everything before rounding the corners, cleaning up the metal bracket, and painting it 'bota gray. I also plan to add a matching plate that will go around the valve body to protect it.

As far as the plumbing goes, I will put the valves in series with the PB, between the FEL/third function and the loop for my BH77. The tank/relief low pressure line will need to tee into the tank line. If anyone can tell me what size that hose is (tough to tell crawling under there) and/or what size/type of tee to purchase, I would appreciate it. Thanks

Ping said:

Great job!
I may have missed it but, are you planning on running hose or hard lines from the valve to quick couplers?

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Open to input, but was thinking probably hoses. I'm worried the steel lines are just going to be too hard to get just right. Will probably make it harder to get everything connected and disconnected should I have to fix something too.

Posting the old photos of my progress on the remotes prompted me to get off my butt and get some more work done today. Here is what I have come up with to connect the valves to the outlets. I could probably do everything a little tighter and cleaner with rigid lines, but I don't know how I would bend them and I'm sure they'd be more expensive.

These flexible lines and fittings have not yet been crimped. I wanted to double check the hose lengths to make sure it was going to fit. I think this will be fine, I will just have to be careful not to catch the hoses on anything as at least one of them will stick out from the side of the ROPS a couple of inches. I could probably cable tie them to hold them in a little tighter to the ROPS.

Once these are crimped, I will need to plumb in to the PB circuit for the BH 77 and also tee into the tank return low pressure line.

Does anyone know what size hose that tank line is?

I thought about the set up with the hoses and wasn't happy. Good news is that nothing had been crimped yet. I was able to work something out and ended up with a little money back in my pocket, smaller hoses, and a bit tighter set up. Should be less in the way of my elbow and forearm when using the remotes and less likely to snag something along side of the tractor.

I ended up using 3/8" 3000 psi hose from Parker with female JIC fittings on either end, along with some adapters to get everything to connect.

Fordtech86 said:

Just my 2 cents, that***8217;s a lot of hydraulic pressure right next to your head! If one of them lines were to blow it could be very bad.

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I thought about that. I certainly didn't skimp on those hoses for that reason. The working pressure they're rated at is 3000 psi and the relief valve on the remotes is set at 2500. Best I can figure, burst pressure on those hoses is 12,000 psi. Does that make you any less worried?

The factory option isn't much farther back - still forward of the ROPS (pic below).

Update, working on paint and assembly... I fashioned and welded 2 studs on the bottom of the bracket to hold a guard in place that my neighbor made for me - he's a machinist and has access to a brake.

I sprayed on a few coats of a Rustoleum Universal Bonding Primer and then a couple coats of Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel (7784 charcoal gray). I think the color is a pretty good match to the factory ROPS/Kubota gray. Certainly cheaper and I can't imagine the Rustoleum is any less of a quality paint.

Connecting the low pressure tank return was a real pain. I thought I had out smarted things by scouring the parts list for the factory remote valve. Turns out either the remote valve or the sizes for the parts listed was dead wrong.

The low pressure hose from the FEL valve to the pump is painted. It connects to the FEL valve with a hose barb, clamp, and the fitting to the valve is 1/2" O-ring boss (ORB SAE 8).

I used a 1/2" JIC T fitting with a female swivel off the tee side and a male on each side across the top. It was connected to the FEL valve by way of a 1/2" male ORB to 1/2" male JIC.

I replaced the ORB hose barb with a 1/2" female JIC hose barb (it was just a smidge small for the hose, but with the hose clamp it's fine).

I tightened the ORB to JIC adapter with a 7/8" deep socket, but it was super annoying and hard to get the T fitting tight to that. There just isn't much of any room to turn a wrench in there and a crow's foot wasn't much better. We ended up removing the panel below the seat at the back of the floorboard to get it done. If you don't mind the mess, it probably would have been much quicker and easier to remove at least one of the banjo fittings from the FEL and then tighten the T and reassemble.

We did obviously remove the right tire/wheel, but didn't have to take the fender off. I ended up using the outriggers/stabilizers on my BH77 to lift the tire off the ground an inch, then we just shimmied the tire off and rolled it to the side, being careful not to let it fall - it's weighted with Rim Guard.

Here is a view of the low pressure hose making a 180 turn from the FEL to the pump (before I installed the tee fitting).

Mounting the painted valve and bracket...

Finally completed. I hooked up my flail mower and had a grand time testing it out. Floats and angles down with offset to the side of the tractor for ditches and sets straight up 90 degrees to trim branches along the fence row of trees.

Also bought a top link cylinder from Surplus Center as mentioned in another OTT thread. Cylinder retracted and stroke lengths are great - tried it out on my box blade. I did have to grind off about 1/8" from the swivel eye where it connects to the back of the tractor, it was just a little too wide to fit otherwise.

Now I really want a tilt cylinder, but I can't find one online. I'm considering buying another at surplus center and welding on the top and bottom clevis from a new lift arm to make it work. Any suggestions/advice?

Stomper said:

Looks good. Im doing the same thing right now with my L2501. Nice to see how others are doing it. I like your remote couplers.

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Thanks. These are the couplers I used.

AGRICULTURAL TRACTOR CLAMP KITS WITH PIONEER LEVER ACTUATED QUICK COUPLERS AND DUST COVER HOUSING - 9500 SERIES CLAMP KITS

https://ph.parker.com/us/17559/en/pioneer-agricultural-quick-coupler-clamp-kits-hydraulic-up-to-3000-psi-iso-5675-9500-series/9500-4

They're pricey (I think I paid about $300 all together for both pair of coupler kits), but included a way for me to mount them, valves that allow connect/disconnect under pressure (I don't have to shut the tractor down like I do to connect/disconnect the backhoe), they included the dust covers, and I don't have to fiddle with the collar on the poppet - you just push and pull the hose and male fitting to connect/disconnect.