increase engine operating temperature

majorwager said:

My MX operates at a low operating water temp when outside air temp is in the teens and below F. Admittedly RPMs reduced because FEL less sensitive. Thought about solid sheet metal panel attached to radiator screen to reduce air flow. Cab heator flow functioning properly, no air lock in system. Appreciate suggestions.

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Corrugated plastic political and realty signs make durable radiator blocks.

Cover all but about 10% of the surface in cold weather. remove completely when the air warms to 45F. Watch the temp indicator. All engine cooling systems are different.

A couple years back I used a pizza box to block the radiator/air!

A properly operating thermostat should maintain correct operating temperature. However, a diesel engine is SOOOOO efficient, it does not generate a lot of heat.

I used to drive a diesel car which was super-efficent (over 50MPG) In the winter, it would spend the night plugged in to heat the antifreeze. When I started it in the morning, the engine-temperature was measuring on the gauge.

Once I started driving, the engine-temp would go DOWN if I tried to heat the interior of the car. The heater-core would suck all the heat out of the engine.

Bottom line, I cut up a cardboard box to create a cover for the radiator. That cover stayed infront of the radiator until outside temperatures went above 20F.

I've noticed many big trucks with cardboard in the last few weeks.

Haven't noticed it so much in many years...maybe I wasn't looking, but now engine temp is more important with the Tier IV emissions....

majorwager said:

My MX operates at a low operating water temp when outside air temp is in the teens and below F. Admittedly RPMs reduced because FEL less sensitive. Thought about solid sheet metal panel attached to radiator screen to reduce air flow. Cab heator flow functioning properly, no air lock in system. Appreciate suggestions.

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Does it operate normally in the summer months or is it cool then also? If so it might be a failed open thermostat. It could also be a bad temperature sensor.
In cooler weather it may take longer to come to temperature so if your using it with light loads and for short periods in may not warm up.
You can use a piece of cardboard or similar material to partially block the radiator to help it warm up quicker but your thermostat should control the temperature. If you do block the radiator, be sure to monitor your temperature gauge.
We have three different brands of diesel tractors and they all control warm up to the same spot on their respective gauges whether it's hot or cold nder the same load conditions. It just takes them longer to do that when it's really cold.

I had a '67 Landcruiser with a canvas top that ran 165-170F all summer long, but if I ran in cold temps, 30F or lower, between front and rear heaters, it would hardly run. I made a plastic sheet that went between the radiator & grille that blocked the entire radiator air flow. Then it ran at 165-170F again.

Cab heaters pull coolant before the thermostat so they will make a lightly loaded diesel operate below normal temps. Blocking airflow to the radiator helps as most thermostats pass a little coolant to help purge air in normal operation. Also increasing the load with higher RPM, turning on all lights (to load the alternator) anything that requires HP will help generate heat.
Pay attention to the temp gauge and cab heater as a increase in either my indicate a need to open air flow to radiator. Especially true if you increase load on engine. Like moving firewood up to the house in the FEL vs. snow blowing.

No comment, just realized too late this was a year old thread.