Is it hard to tap into the fuse box on the L3901 (2018)? I am going to be adding lights to a canopy for winter use. Basically I want to come off the fuse box located on the Left side then go to the two switches (one for rear and one for front). Then to a disconnect for both wires,then to the rear 2 led lights and 2 led front lights.
Tapping into the fuse box?
- Thread starter paintman161
- Start date
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Paint,
what you really want to do is NOT tap off the fuse box - trust me, despite thinking that in a logical way, it really is NOT the best and "smartest" way!!!
Get you a relay - cheap as all get out! And then either inline fuses or even better a small little 4 buss box and run everything NOT hooked to the OEM box. True it might take a little more money, but if there is ever a problem, you will be isolated from the factory wiring.
here is a couple of examples of the wiring :
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-MI...532530904&sr=8-5&keywords=offroad+light+relay
https://www.amazon.com/Kawell-Unive...32530815&sr=8-14&keywords=offroad+light+relay
here is a picture of the fuse box
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eajbcBP1kI8/maxresdefault.jpg
what you really want to do is NOT tap off the fuse box - trust me, despite thinking that in a logical way, it really is NOT the best and "smartest" way!!!
Get you a relay - cheap as all get out! And then either inline fuses or even better a small little 4 buss box and run everything NOT hooked to the OEM box. True it might take a little more money, but if there is ever a problem, you will be isolated from the factory wiring.
here is a couple of examples of the wiring :
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-MI...532530904&sr=8-5&keywords=offroad+light+relay
https://www.amazon.com/Kawell-Unive...32530815&sr=8-14&keywords=offroad+light+relay
here is a picture of the fuse box
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eajbcBP1kI8/maxresdefault.jpg
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Paint - there is often an "extra" circuit for work lights on a Kubota, and I see a 10A fuse Work Light fuse in your box. It's hot with the key on my BX.
They leave the wires in certain places...seems it's taped up under left(?) fender above the rear tire on an L, but that's from memory......my BX was near the top link bracket in the back.
Hokie brings up the best way, but the work light circuit does provide a possible shortcut, but it's only 10A. Need to keep that in mind.
Here's a similar project on an L, and talks about the work light circuit:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23370
They leave the wires in certain places...seems it's taped up under left(?) fender above the rear tire on an L, but that's from memory......my BX was near the top link bracket in the back.
Hokie brings up the best way, but the work light circuit does provide a possible shortcut, but it's only 10A. Need to keep that in mind.
Here's a similar project on an L, and talks about the work light circuit:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23370
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Both Hokie and RCW have excellent points. My contribution is to suggest marine grade fuse boxes.
The have terminals with screws rather than the push on style so never come off when snagged. Material tends to more likely be stainless so no corrosion.
There are cheap solutions called add a circuit in just to make you aware of them.
https://www.amazon.ca/FOSHIO-circui...&qid=1532539846&sr=8-6&keywords=add-a-circuit
A few people unfamiliar with these add-ons, fail to realize that they do NOT add load to the original fuse. The tap unto the power side of the original fuse not the protected side of the circuit. They do add load to the wire feeding the original fuse.
They are a solution that needs to be used wisely.
The complete new fuse box is the best way as sooner of later you will want to add additional things. You never can seem to have enough lights if you work at night.
Dave
The have terminals with screws rather than the push on style so never come off when snagged. Material tends to more likely be stainless so no corrosion.
There are cheap solutions called add a circuit in just to make you aware of them.
https://www.amazon.ca/FOSHIO-circui...&qid=1532539846&sr=8-6&keywords=add-a-circuit
A few people unfamiliar with these add-ons, fail to realize that they do NOT add load to the original fuse. The tap unto the power side of the original fuse not the protected side of the circuit. They do add load to the wire feeding the original fuse.
They are a solution that needs to be used wisely.
The complete new fuse box is the best way as sooner of later you will want to add additional things. You never can seem to have enough lights if you work at night.
Dave
On my L3901 I used the 10amp work light connector under the fender like everyone said I just used two female spades, watch your polarity! then I think i electical taped them in place.
If only connecting LED lights of the 36 watt and under range typically found on amazon, eBay, etc, the actual current draw will be small and can be handled by the auxiliary circuit provided by Kubota without issue.
About a year ago I tested 18, 27 and 36 watt leds lights and found the actual current load to be way less than their ratings would suggest. The results are published somewhere on this forum. Four 27 watt LEDs current draw will about as much as one 55 watt halogen.
Given the significantly reduced current draw, relays and oversized wiring are not needed. But do use a good DC rated switch.
Added in Edit:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=264728&postcount=3
About a year ago I tested 18, 27 and 36 watt leds lights and found the actual current load to be way less than their ratings would suggest. The results are published somewhere on this forum. Four 27 watt LEDs current draw will about as much as one 55 watt halogen.
Given the significantly reduced current draw, relays and oversized wiring are not needed. But do use a good DC rated switch.
Added in Edit:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=264728&postcount=3
Last edited:
Stomper
Member
Equipment
2017 L2501. Landpride Mower. Farm King Snow Blower. DIY Root Bucket grapple.
On my 2501 I installed a second auxillary fuse box. I believe this is how I remember I did it. I ran a seperate wire (sized accordingly) from the battery to a relay then to the new fuse box with a fuse )again sized accordingly)as close to the battery as possible. I also wired the relay to a keyed hot wire (can't remeber which one). When I turn the key on the relay energizes the fuse box. The fuse box has a circuit for each a front and rear LED light bar, 3rd fuction switch as well as a plug at the back of the tractor to run the chute rotation and deflection on my snow blower.
I didn't want to disrupt the factory wiring in any way, especially for warrenty purposes.
I didn't want to disrupt the factory wiring in any way, especially for warrenty purposes.
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This is what I did too. To make the aux fuse panel hot only when the tractor is on, I used an add-a-circuit run from a fuse on my main box that is hot only when the tractor is on. That runs to the relay to switch it on and bring power to the aux box when the ignition is on.
I just came off the 10 amp work light wire and used a water proof splitter up to the two switches, then ran 4 wires to the rear fender with a plug to plug in the lights when the canopy/ cab is on.
I realize this is done already so this is for the next person looking for the same.
I used one of the blank spots in the factory fuse box, which was void a terminal, I was able to pick up a package of misc. terminals at autozone that had a terminal that worked not the exact replacement but it worked. I ran the wire along side the factory harness.
It wasn't till after I ran the wire that I read on here about the auxillery wire already ran, but I didn't see it on mine when I looked later.
I used one of the blank spots in the factory fuse box, which was void a terminal, I was able to pick up a package of misc. terminals at autozone that had a terminal that worked not the exact replacement but it worked. I ran the wire along side the factory harness.
It wasn't till after I ran the wire that I read on here about the auxillery wire already ran, but I didn't see it on mine when I looked later.