l185 oil in coolant/coolant in oil

freebird

freebird

New member

Equipment
Kubota L185, country tuff 35T log splitter.
Dec 20, 2015
20
0
1
saint paul in
Still mixing water and oil after 18 oz of blue devil. boo! this is certainly getting tiring. I added the devil and followed the repair procedure and oil shows up in the radiator after 5 minutes of running. I ran the tractor at idle for 45 minutes per the devils instruction but still have the same condition. With the oil pressure standing at 60 PSI at idle I doubt that I will find a fix in a bottle that will hold back that oil pressure. I estimate < 5 oz. of water get into the crankcase and < 5 oz. of oil shows up in the radiator. I believe the crack is sealing up shortly after the tractor warms up. I added a mechanical oil pressure gauge and also a water gauge this past winter and verified the water temp gauge was working. However even after 45 minutes of running the water temp wont move off the 100' mark and the lower radiator hose stays cool. is this normal or a clue? anybody?
Thanks
 
freebird

freebird

New member

Equipment
Kubota L185, country tuff 35T log splitter.
Dec 20, 2015
20
0
1
saint paul in
Update!!!!!! On the L185 leaking oil into the coolant and coolant in the oil. it only took me close to two years to solve this issue on my Kubota. I Broke down and took this Kubota to a guy I found on Craigslist, he assured me he knew everything about this L185 and he would fix my head leaking issue. after telling me the head was not flat from the machine shop that did the work previously he then charged me $400.00 for this repair. 1 hour after I got the tractor home it was mixing again!!! I called Caroll Preble from that diesel place in Greensburg IN and explained that I needed my money back as he did not fix the issue he was paid to fix. He told me to contact my lawyer! what a bafoon! he left parts off my tractor and the motor covered in motor oil, and was unable to set valve lash correctly as the tractor was barley running when I picked it up. beware of that diesel place in Greensburg In. I was fed up! I purchased a new Chinese head from the grain farmer off ebay. I installed the new head three days ago and the mixing has stopped completely. All this trouble caused by someone misdiagnosing a bad head!


I would say you either have a warped headf, warped block, cracked block or still cracked head.
I personally would never weld a head, internal cracks can bleed coolant into the oil.[/QUOTE]
 
Last edited:
M

MeanGreenL185Mach

New member

Equipment
L185 mowing
May 12, 2017
1
0
0
Indianapolis, IN
I read this for setting valve lash/clearance, but had a similar problem. Head leak after running it for 5 years while the radiator cap wouldn't seal.. needed a new radiator but my dad just told my aunt to keep the water up on it, drained it in the winter.. then one day last year the oil pan filled with water.

Fixed the radiator. After reading the thermosyphon part my eyes bugged out and thought, jesus how did we manage to get by with this for 5 years. Tough mudders.

Had the head planed. I'm in IN and strongly recommend B&C engine in Cicero, IN - they are a small shop but one of the fairest and best around.

Added a head shim. It wasn't there either, but it is important to keep the pistons clear of the valves if material is removed from the head. It would likely not have one from the factory, and have seen here or somewhere that you can stack quite a few on top of them. like 3-4. But that would worry me. One worries me.

Only compress a head gasket once. The compression seal holds back something like 18,000psi. Once it has been mushed, replace it - they are like 20$.

New head bolts. Not required but if some guy who knew some guy that calculated the pressure in the combustion chamber is right, there could be strain and wear on those bolts when torqued to 55ft/lbs. They are not as cheap, like $120-140, but I only want to do this once.

Clean the head with solvent, blow out all the ports with an air nozzle, slowly run a threading tool through the head bolt holes in the block, sand it lightly, clean and blow again - check out a youtuber Schodinger's Cat. Longwinded but a good tutorial on being thorough.

Since you took 2 years, I feel better about taking 9 months to be ready to set valve lash and be near turning it over.

Not sure what else - I am trying to fix old problems. Even putting on a alternator it hasn't had for 20yrs.

But, I'd make sure the head gasket is new. That is my guess. If you've been using a new one... I'm going to have to guess the head or the block.

Sorry to hear about the tough go at it, and hoping I'll have better luck.
 
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