B6100 won't start HELP

minderbinder3

New member

Equipment
B6100
Jun 23, 2016
8
0
0
East Texas
I recently bought a B6100E with a 42" Woods cutter, disc, and single point plow. This is my first diesel tractor and I wanted it to prepare a garden and some mowing on our 4 acre place. No hour meter, but it started fine, with some pretty heavy smoke from exhaust and crankcase tube, for about 10 times. Ran pretty strong and then sat for a couple of weeks.

Now it won't start. White smoke from exhaust and acts like it wants to but just won't...even with a little starter fluid. Battery is charged and strong and I have cleaned best I could any electric connections.

I had a buddy that is a diesel mechanic give it a look and he checked the compression (250 lbs) at each of the 3 glow plugs and cleaned the injectors. He even tried new fuel but it just does the same thing and won't quite start. He doesn't think it is a fuel issue.

Am I missing something?

My buddy seems to think that the previous signs of heavy smoke and "blow by" means that the engine probably needs to be rebuilt. He has checked around and it will likely cost over $1000. I only paid $2300 for the tractor and the implements so I am not sure it is even worth it.

Anybody have any ideas on what i am missing or suggestions on what to do next?
 

Codi

New member

Equipment
Kubota B9200D bush hog, finish mower, carry all, box blade
Jan 17, 2016
66
0
0
Northern Kentucky
White smoke is usually raw diesel (Non-combusted diesel) or anti-freeze. Are you preheating it before trying start it? And smoke out the tube, I believe, does indicate blow-by so it could be time for a compression test on the cylinders.
Also, some of the other guys here may correct me if I'm wrong, but I have heard that starter fluid in a diesel is a big no no because the fluid can ignite during preheat causing engine damage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,286
4,853
113
Sandpoint, ID
Too low of compression! 325PSI lower limit
Yes a rebuild is going to cost a little bit, more in the range of $1500.

Before you do anything else pull the valve cover and do a valve adjustment, might get your compression #'s to go just high enough to limp it along. ;)



 

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minderbinder3

New member

Equipment
B6100
Jun 23, 2016
8
0
0
East Texas
The decision would be easier to build it if I had more experience with the tractor. I only had it a short while for mowing and wasn't that impressed with its mowing power, but it could have been because the engine was wore out when I got it.

Ideally, if the rebuilt motor were to enhance its power to turn PTO operated Woods 42" bush hog/cutter than I would suck it up and pay the $$ to make it last.

Does anybody have mowing experience with these tractors?
 

D2Cat

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
12,901
4,266
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
When you had the glow plugs out, did you test them?

Might want to make sure the GP's are good and all working. Then go through and adjust the valves. It might run for a long time if you can get it so it will start.

Do not use starting fluid or other methods of encouragement when starting, or you will be fixing something sooner then otherwise.
 

minderbinder3

New member

Equipment
B6100
Jun 23, 2016
8
0
0
East Texas
How do I test the GP? I have checked for voltage and they seem fine. The indicator glows orange so I assumed they were working. If I pull them will they glow as they warm?

I don't know if I am up to adjusting the valves.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,286
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113
Sandpoint, ID
How do I test the GP?
I don't know if I am up to adjusting the valves.
Go to Kubotabooks.com and download the three part service manual, checking and adjusting the valves is very simple.

To test the GP's pull them out and hold them with pliers as they will get very hot very fast, touch the body of the GP to ground on the battery or the metal on the tractor, use a piece of wire from the positive to the nut connection on the GP, GP will get real hot real fast if it's good. ;)
 

Tooljunkie

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
4,150
27
48
59
Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
That tractor is around 14 hp, my L1501 is 15 hp. It runs a 60"finishing mower with ease. So 42" shouldnt be all that difficult. Hope you get it running, dont know what i would do without my little tractor.
 

minderbinder3

New member

Equipment
B6100
Jun 23, 2016
8
0
0
East Texas
Well I pulled a GP and tested it on the battery and it heated up immediately. I also tested the current to the wire connected the GP's from the ignition. It reads over 12 volts once I turn the key to preheat.

However, when I connected the GP directly to it (grounded and not grounded) the GP never warms up. I even tested the current to GP and it reads over 12 when I do that.

Any ideas?
 

85Hokie

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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
10,271
2,104
113
Bedford - VA
Well I pulled a GP and tested it on the battery and it heated up immediately. I also tested the current to the wire connected the GP's from the ignition. It reads over 12 volts once I turn the key to preheat.

However, when I connected the GP directly to it (grounded and not grounded) the GP never warms up. I even tested the current to GP and it reads over 12 when I do that.

Any ideas?

I am trying to understand what you just did.....

gp worked fine on the battery - b/c you could "feel" they got hot. YES?

all three tested ? all three got hot???


when you say current - you really mean voltage, two completely different terms and two completely different things. CURRENT (AMPS) is the flow of electrons, VOLTAGE is how hard those electrons are being pushed along the wire. You measured voltage - 12 volts, fine.

ONE thing we need to measure is the RESISTANCE of the gp's, this is directly proportional to it working. To to this - the top wire must be unhooked, so that you are isolating the ONE gp - and set your meter to OHMS, and you might need a good digital meter to do this........touch the top of the gp and then any good metal surface, the reading should be very close to zero, not quite zero, but less than 3 ohms, each one should be close to the other(s) when reading ohms. IF out of the machine then you can test each the same way you tested them with a battery, one lead top, one lead grounded.

you said "The indicator glows orange" - if this is true, then that too is a good sign, most of the time, the indicator can be the problem.


explain what you mean :

"However, when I connected the GP directly to it (grounded and not grounded) the GP never warms up."
 

D2Cat

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L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
12,901
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40 miles south of Kansas City
You need power from the switch to the glow plug indicator to the first GP, 2nd GP, third GP.

If the circuit in any one of those items is broken down you have no GP's from there on.
 

minderbinder3

New member

Equipment
B6100
Jun 23, 2016
8
0
0
East Texas
Sorry about the voltage/current thing. I was trying to stay basic. I only pulled one GP because it was the easiest for now. I tested it on the battery and could see it start to glow warm.

The wire I am referring to is the one that comes from the ignition/dash and connects directly to the first GP that in turn has jumper wires connecting the remaining 2 GP. When I test this wire and not connected to the GP and turn the key to pre heat...the voltage goes from 0 to about 12, however with the GP removed and only connected to that wire it goes up to 12 but the GP doesn't get hot or glow at all. I tried this with the GP removed and by itself and with a ground wire attached to it just to see. Same results in that it doesn't get warm or glow.

I hope this is clearer than before.
 

85Hokie

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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
10,271
2,104
113
Bedford - VA
Sorry about the voltage/current thing. I was trying to stay basic. I only pulled one GP because it was the easiest for now. I tested it on the battery and could see it start to glow warm.

The wire I am referring to is the one that comes from the ignition/dash and connects directly to the first GP that in turn has jumper wires connecting the remaining 2 GP. When I test this wire and not connected to the GP and turn the key to pre heat...the voltage goes from 0 to about 12, however with the GP removed and only connected to that wire it goes up to 12 but the GP doesn't get hot or glow at all. I tried this with the GP removed and by itself and with a ground wire attached to it just to see. Same results in that it doesn't get warm or glow.

I hope this is clearer than before.

it is clearer, but there are still "problems" ........think of this for a second, I have a nine volt battery and two AA batteries(1.5v each).....I place them together in series......makes sense? I now have 12 volts .......now, I hook my car to the batteries, and turn the key......hell, it will not buzz or spit nuttin!:p, BUT IF I measure at any given place it should show 12 volts.....what's the problem? AMPs are the problem! That little tiny battery cannot provide the needed amps (flow of electrons) that is required to do anything......

I think when you are testing the GP , the ground or hot is NOT connecting enough to provide a flow of electrons.....or , there is an open in the wiring.

DO this : Take each GP out, heat them one by one with battery as you have done, see that each gets hot after the same period of time. This will test the GP - even if the resistance is off, but then again - they either work or do not work...

as D2Cat pointed out, once the chain is broken (only testing one at a time) the resistance changes....bigggggg time!!! All of these are in parallel, which means they will get hotter quicker than just one in series. WHy? AS resistance is placed in parallel with one another, the TOTAL resistance goes way down.....you have 4 items that are in parallel, three GPs and the little glow/light on the dash....if any one of these is taken out of the "loop" the amount of time to get hot will be slightly slower. Looking at the math here, if each GP has a resistance of 1 OHM....and you have 4 of them, (assuming the indicator is 1 ohm too) then the TOTAL resistance is lowered to ...... 1/4 of an ohm!!! SO the amps can flow a lot better with this less resistance.....

I have a feeling that you could glow these till the block gets warm:D:).....and still not start the poor ol' girl..... there is not enough compression to get it to ignite the air/fuel.

I know this is not an answer you wish to hear, you can tow the tractor and it will start after a bit. High gear, easy on the clutch........no a great choice, but once it starts........keep adding fuel.:D:) Ok - kidding.

report back what you find with the Gp's:)
 

minderbinder3

New member

Equipment
B6100
Jun 23, 2016
8
0
0
East Texas
All GPs work fine. I even made new jumper wires to go between them and it still won't start.

I think I will try to sell it as it sits with the implements. If that doesn't happen I guess I will have it rebuilt.
 

minderbinder3

New member

Equipment
B6100
Jun 23, 2016
8
0
0
East Texas
No I did not. I could not find the service manual for that engine. I could only locate the owners manual which doesn't appear to refer to adjusting the valves.

I would be willing to try if I can better locate the information.
 

minderbinder3

New member

Equipment
B6100
Jun 23, 2016
8
0
0
East Texas
Got the manuals downloaded. Thanks

I also got it started today and boy oh boy there was lots of black smoke coming out of the exhaust and tube leading from crank case. Also had blow by oil coming out of that crank case tube.

I don't think messing with the valves will help much.

I have it and the implements currently listed on CL locally.

Thanks for all you help.