Clutch and Throwout Bearing

When you have your new bearing in hand-reread the part about using a wooden dowel rod and grease. This is the easiest way to remove the bearing and it will come out in one piece. You are doing fine and the stuff needs replaced anyways. Determine if your splitting time is worth not replacing the clutch face..

I'm glad you are happy with the fix, but I wouldn't be comfortable recommending it. I suppose it's likely good enough and will last a while, but it's highly unlikely that the wear is concentric to the rotation axis. Which means that with a concentric bushing in there, the shaft won't be spinning on axis. That then yields fatigue on the shaft and stress on the front support bearing (and beyond). Obviously we're not talking about a 7k+ rpm motor here, but as seen in the multitude of odd wear and fatigue failures found on many of these tractors (sad how well I know), it does add up.

pbaumeister, your solution wasn't the ideal, but I would have done that or something very similar before I'd break down the engine to get the crank worked on.

If there was some way to set up a jig on the flywheel to cut the oversized bushing true to center would be nice, but not owning a machine shop, you have to do with what you've got!!

You may be surprised and get several years of use out of it.

I don't think it will wear out to be concentric any more than the original hole wore to be concentric, but I do think it's going to wear faster on the shallow side due to always bearing the load there. The pilot bushing is not really meant to handle load at all. It's there to keep everything on axis, mainly when the clutch is disengaged or changing state (on/off).

But as stated, depending on how you use it, you may get years of wear out of it. Particularly if you got lucky and it did wear more concentric than not. I'm not that familiar with tractors in general, but that repair wouldn't last long at all on a daily driver or performance toy.

If it were me, just spit-balling here, but I would probably have tried to figure out a rig like they use to bore worn pivot pins in loaders and other such equipment. Basically a bridge across the back of the block, as rigid as possible, and then setup a "feed" to hold a boring bit. Maybe a lathe compound repurposed, or anything where you have a relatively rigid mount and ability to control feed. On those implement line boring tools I've seen the bit advanced with just a block welded behind and a bolt threaded through with a trough and clamp to guide/hold the bit. Anyway, once you have the boring bit mounted in the worn bore, crank the tractor. Very dangerous near strong spinning things, so be very careful, and feed the boring bar to make the hole concentric to the turning crank. Then fit a custom bushing/bearing to that concentric hole and you have a repair that should last a good long while.

I would not do on device line boring without some experience on less expensive things first. Any decent machine shop can do this function with accuracy.

That's a very reasonable position, certainly wouldn't want to scrap it. I have my own machine shop, so while I feel I could make it work, it should be said that you try at your own risk, your mileage may vary, and so on.

The problem with taking it to a machine shop (at home or elsewhere), is that you will need to tear the motor down and remove the crank. If I cared to do so, or if there were other motivators like a general freshening or fixing leaks, then I would much prefer to do this on my lathe (7.5 hp 17x60 at nearly 5k lbs, certainly up to the task). But if the motor were otherwise good and the damaged bore were my only concern, I would likely try to find another way.