B2650 Configure/Questions

KubotaVet · Jan 16, 2017

Hello Orange Tractor Community, this is my first post

First off as my name implies, I've run Kubota's (compact) tractors for about 30 years and I've always loved them. My current Kubota is a (2003) B7800 with about 700 hours on it, that I bought brand new. I haven't had one issue with the tractor, it even has the original battery and starts like its new. Which isn't all that easy when its -20f here in northern Minnesota.

But speaking of -20f, I decided it was time to upgrade to something with a nice factory cab and the B3350 caught my eye, but after reading about the DPF issues on tier 4 engines, plus my own experience with trucks that have similar systems, I decided the B2650 would fit my needs just fine.

Now for my questions:

--How much weight should I add to the tractor? I will mainly use the loader for snow and occasionally gravel and dirt work. Also I live in a pretty flat area so I won't be using it on hills baring some ditch rotary mowing. When I'm pushing snow, I'll have a 63" snow blower on back, and with other loader work I have a 60" box scraper on the rear. Will that be enough?

--I currently use a 60" rear 3-pt mower, but I'm thinking of getting a mmm this time around. How easy is the mmm to take on and off? Do they all come with drive over options? Is the drive over all that necessary, or do they slide out pretty easy on concrete? Also does the tractor have enough to hp to run the 72"? I know its rated for it, but I'm wondering if the 60" would be better overall with 26hp?

--I read that the B2650 uses the same engine as the B2920 but Kubota tuned down the engine to 26hp to bypass the need for DPF system. After my warranty expires, how hard would it be to tune it back up to 29hp?

That's it for now, I'm really looking forward to blowing snow in a heated cab with a radio

Thanks for any advice!

eipo · Jan 17, 2017

KubotaVet said:
--How much weight should I add to the tractor? I will mainly use the loader for snow and occasionally gravel and dirt work. Also I live in a pretty flat area so I won't be using it on hills baring some ditch rotary mowing. When I'm pushing snow, I'll have a 63" snow blower on back, and with other loader work I have a 60" box scraper on the rear. Will that be enough?

Since Ive loaded the tires, I can about max out the lifting capabilities of the loader without lifting the rear off the ground. BUT, it does get very light and traction is brought down to nothing on any incline or slippery surface. I supplement with a box scraper as needed.

KubotaVet said:
--I currently use a 60" rear 3-pt mower, but I'm thinking of getting a mmm this time around. How easy is the mmm to take on and off? Do they all come with drive over options? Is the drive over all that necessary, or do they slide out pretty easy on concrete? Also does the tractor have enough to hp to run the 72"? I know its rated for it, but I'm wondering if the 60" would be better overall with 26hp?

I have the 60" and it takes less than 5 minutes to put it on and take it off. The 72" is a drive over, the 60" is not. I am very pleased with the cut quality of the 60 but I don't doubt it could handle the 72.

KubotaVet said:
--I read that the B2650 uses the same engine as the B2920 but Kubota tuned down the engine to 26hp to bypass the need for DPF system. After my warranty expires, how hard would it be to tune it back up to 29hp?

I don't know the answer to your question. I believe this has been discussed and its not as simple as turning the pump up.

rkidd · Jan 17, 2017

KubotaVet said:
Hello Orange Tractor Community, this is my first post

First off as my name implies, I've run Kubota's (compact) tractors for about 30 years and I've always loved them. My current Kubota is a (2003) B7800 with about 700 hours on it, that I bought brand new. I haven't had one issue with the tractor, it even has the original battery and starts like its new. Which isn't all that easy when its -20f here in northern Minnesota.

But speaking of -20f, I decided it was time to upgrade to something with a nice factory cab and the B3350 caught my eye, but after reading about the DPF issues on tier 4 engines, plus my own experience with trucks that have similar systems, I decided the B2650 would fit my needs just fine.

Now for my questions:

--How much weight should I add to the tractor? I will mainly use the loader for snow and occasionally gravel and dirt work. Also I live in a pretty flat area so I won't be using it on hills baring some ditch rotary mowing. When I'm pushing snow, I'll have a 63" snow blower on back, and with other loader work I have a 60" box scraper on the rear. Will that be enough?

--I currently use a 60" rear 3-pt mower, but I'm thinking of getting a mmm this time around. How easy is the mmm to take on and off? Do they all come with drive over options? Is the drive over all that necessary, or do they slide out pretty easy on concrete? Also does the tractor have enough to hp to run the 72"? I know its rated for it, but I'm wondering if the 60" would be better overall with 26hp?

--I read that the B2650 uses the same engine as the B2920 but Kubota tuned down the engine to 26hp to bypass the need for DPF system. After my warranty expires, how hard would it be to tune it back up to 29hp?

That's it for now, I'm really looking forward to blowing snow in a heated cab with a radio

Thanks for any advice!

Welcome to the club. You have got yourself a really nice machine. I have over 450 hrs on my 2015 B2650, plowing snow, bucketing dirt,mowing, rototilling, box blading, and all types of tasks. It has worked flawless. I did not load the rear tires on mine due to the fact that I mow the yard with it and wanted to keep the weight down for the early spring. Has worked out very well. I also got the 60" mmm like Eipo and it mows awesome. Like he said I can have the deck on or off pulling it out the right side in 3-4 minutes. The 72" is a drive over as Eipo says. I didnt have room in my garage for it. My buddy mows with the 72" on his and it handles it no problem. I do mow 3 acres out back with a Land Pride 72" finish mower and it handles it no problem. For plowing snow it takes minimal weight on the rear and with the blower on the rear should be fine. I have plowed my drive which is flat with no ballast on the rear and had no problem. As for bucketing dirt or heavy material I fabbed up a ballast box that I could add or subtract weight as needed. With alot of experimentation because I am anal and have time now, I have found 650 lbs of ballast to be perfect for bucketing clay or a dense material and driving on uneven ground and the machine staying planted with a 60" ssqa bucket. I am sure you will enjoy that factory cab. Any other questions feel free to ask.

View attachment 26735

KubotaVet · Jan 17, 2017

Nice looking tractor you have there rkidd [emoji2]

Thanks for the advice guys! I think I'll go for the 60" mmm. I'll have to think more on the weight. Since I plan on mowing with it too I don't want it too heavy, but I'm afraid when I'm moving gravel/dirt my box scraper won't be enough weight.

Also, when looking at the rear snow blowers I find the sizes offered a little odd. 51" is just a tad too small to cover the tractor wheels and the 63" is a little bigger then I would like, I wish i could get something in-between. Anyone have experience with these 2 blowers on the 2650?

Thanks agian

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rkidd · Jan 17, 2017

If your box scraper is not enough weight, there are alot of ways to add a couple hundred lbs to it. I have saw quite a few posts on that subject. Then you are good to go.

eipo · Jan 17, 2017

KubotaVet said:
Thanks for the advice guys! I think I'll go for the 60" mmm. I'll have to think more on the weight. Since I plan on mowing with it too I don't want it too heavy, but I'm afraid when I'm moving gravel/dirt my box scraper won't be enough weight.

The weight added by loading the tires wont be that bad for lawn duties unless you live in a low area that is always moist and soft. And consider this, thousands of people purposefully roll their lawns with a drum weighing between 600 to 1000 pounds. Its been warm and wet here in MI this winter and I haven't noticed any additional detriment to the lawn compared to when the tires weren't loaded. But I have noticed an increased amount of stability.

And when you're "using" the box blade you can't count on it as ballast since it would be resting on the ground. I use a 5' box blade and had no issue pulling it fully loaded with unloaded rear tires. I did need to use 4wd, though.

I was hesitant to load the rear tires for the same concerns you're having. But Ive found that its not an issue for my scenario. You can always load them with water and see how it works out and if its to much weight you aren't out anything but time. Then if you are happy with it, drain out the water and load them with whatever suits your fancy that wont freeze.

KubotaVet · Jan 18, 2017

Thanks for the insight!

Currently I'm planning on getting a FEL/ 60"quick attach bucket, pallet forks, 60" mmm, 64" rear snowblower with hydraulics and a ballast box (after seeing a awesome custom one for holding tools on this site). I'll probably test filling the tires this summer and see if I like it. I could possibly have my new B2650 it here in a few weeks if I sell my B7800 tonight

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eipo · Jan 18, 2017

Something else to consider during the purchase process is if you think you'll ever add chains to the rear, you'll need spacers.

KubotaVet · Jan 18, 2017

eipo said:
Something else to consider during the purchase process is if you think you'll ever add chains to the rear, you'll need spacers.

Good point, Thanks!

KubotaVet · Jan 19, 2017

Well I sold my 03 B7800 last night, I didn't even have to advertise this guy just heard rumors I was thinking of selling mine and he drove up here and bought it. Got to love the resale power of orange!

I should have my new one in a couple weeks

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KubotaVet · Jan 19, 2017

Anyone have experience using a back up camera with a rear snowblower? I'm thinking it would be pretty nice if it didn't get covered in snow all the time.

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eipo · Jan 20, 2017

No, but we do have them on equipment here at work. I don't rely on them as a means of backing up, just a tool to see blind spots. Mirrors are your friend.

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KubotaVet · Jan 20, 2017

Yeah I agree, but if it worked to see where my cut was I think it would save some neck strain. I'd always use my mirrors. At my dealership they said they put them on their skid steers and they're looking into putting one on my 2650. If I end up doing it I'll post picks and report back how well it works.

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eipo · Jan 20, 2017

Skids have a larger blind spot than a small tractor. And few have the capacity to have useful mirrors.

JMO but on a 2650 sized tractor, its a solution missing a problem. If you do it, you may find it being more detrimental to a general awareness of your surroundings than you would have by turning your head and body.

Then again, I realize we are all different with different levels of tolerance and ability, you may find it beneficial.

Missouribound · Jan 20, 2017

KubotaVet said:
--How much weight should I add to the tractor? I will mainly use the loader for snow and occasionally gravel and dirt work.

Thanks for any advice!

You mentioned a MMM. Are you getting turf tires? If you plan to mow regularly with this machine you may tear up the lawn without them. And adding weight will compound that. If it's just snow and gravel and dirt work the extra weight will help keep you stable. It's a trade off you will have to decide on.

KubotaVet · Jan 20, 2017

Missouribound said:
You mentioned a MMM. Are you getting turf tires? If you plan to mow regularly with this machine you may tear up the lawn without them. And adding weight will compound that. If it's just snow and gravel and dirt work the extra weight will help keep you stable. It's a trade off you will have to decide on.

Yup, I ordered turf tires. But my dealer won't have them in stock by the time my tractor is ready so their going to deliver it with the R4 industrial tires and come back and pick it up when my turf tires are in to switch them. So I guess I'll get to see the difference between industrial and turf when pushing/blowing snow.

Dave_eng · Feb 21, 2017

Kubotavet

A comment on rear cameras,

A workplace neck injury that ended the rotation of my neck made me eligible for Workers' Compensation to install one on my car. Did a lot of research and knew the wireless radio ones had problems with interference from other devices using the same common frequency so I opted to pay more out of my own pocket for a hard wired one.

It works great in the dark as it has infrared leds and on summer days unless the rear of your car is facing the sun.

Rainy weather, before you back up you have to get out and clean the lens. Not just with a finger because any dirt will scratch the plastic camera lens.

Snow, same thing, I cannot clean the lens, drive 100 yards down my lane to the mailbox and use it at that point to back up. In that short distance, driving at a low speed, enough crap has got on the lens to render it useless. Remember it is about a 1/2" diameter lens so covering 50% of it does not need much.

When I watch high level racing, F1 or Nascar on TV and they have various cameras offering the TV audience a driver's view, the cameras seem to have a moving film across the lens to keep a clean view for the camera.

My brother has a year old Ford Explorer. Its rear view camera is extra good. Shows you the tracks your front wheels are following. But it has the same limitations in rainy or snowy weather.

Headlights on some expensive cars used to and may still have a headlight washer. A small jet below the lens to spray it clean. I considered that solution but then I tried an experiment carrying a spray bottle filled with WW antifreeze. When I could not see out the camera, I would get out and spray the lens. Unfortunately , although the lens was much clearer, the film of WW fluid on it made the image useless.

Another aspect of using a rear camera not thought of is seeing the monitor.
Let me try and explain. The monitor in my car is within the rear view mirror.
I thought that was a good solution because my car is small, the radio not a din size, not a double din but a din and 1/2. An odd ball. So the rear view mirror solution seemed great. The monitor only appears when you shift into reverse and disappears when driving forward and you have a full width rear view mirror.

I could tllt my head up enough to see the rear view mirror so seeing the monitor should be the same.

Big mistake. I wear glasses and need magnification to read.
When you look in the rear view mirror of your car or truck your eyes are focusing on things behind your car i.e. many feet way and focusing to see objects at that distance is easy.

When the monitor comes on now it is like holding book up where the mirror is and trying to read it. Now your eyes are trying to focus on something inches away and you cannot see it. You need to use the lower reading part of your glasses so you have to tilt your head far back so the image on the monitor is being seen through the reading lens.

There is a solution to that called Trademan's glasses. These glasses have the normal reading bi focal lens at the bottom, the long distance lens in the middle but then there is another reading lens at the top of the glasses.

These glasses were designed for people who work over their head all the time and the excess tilting of their head to see though the lower reading lens caused a lot of neck pain. Now with a reading lens up top, the head tilting is minimal.

If you can come up with a design for your tractor that overcomes these limitations, at a reasonable cost many will be interested.

Dave M7040

KubotaVet · Feb 21, 2017

Dave_eng said:
Kubotavet

A comment on rear cameras,

A workplace neck injury that ended the rotation of my neck made me eligible for Workers' Compensation to install one on my car. Did a lot of research and knew the wireless radio ones had problems with interference from other devices using the same common frequency so I opted to pay more out of my own pocket for a hard wired one.

It works great in the dark as it has infrared leds and on summer days unless the rear of your car is facing the sun.

Rainy weather, before you back up you have to get out and clean the lens. Not just with a finger because any dirt will scratch the plastic camera lens.

Snow, same thing, I cannot clean the lens, drive 100 yards down my lane to the mailbox and use it at that point to back up. In that short distance, driving at a low speed, enough crap has got on the lens to render it useless. Remember it is about a 1/2" diameter lens so covering 50% of it does not need much.

When I watch high level racing, F1 or Nascar on TV and they have various cameras offering the TV audience a driver's view, the cameras seem to have a moving film across the lens to keep a clean view for the camera.

My brother has a year old Ford Explorer. Its rear view camera is extra good. Shows you the tracks your front wheels are following. But it has the same limitations in rainy or snowy weather.

Headlights on some expensive cars used to and may still have a headlight washer. A small jet below the lens to spray it clean. I considered that solution but then I tried an experiment carrying a spray bottle filled with WW antifreeze. When I could not see out the camera, I would get out and spray the lens. Unfortunately , although the lens was much clearer, the film of WW fluid on it made the image useless.

Another aspect of using a rear camera not thought of is seeing the monitor.
Let me try and explain. The monitor in my car is within the rear view mirror.
I thought that was a good solution because my car is small, the radio not a din size, not a double din but a din and 1/2. An odd ball. So the rear view mirror solution seemed great. The monitor only appears when you shift into reverse and disappears when driving forward and you have a full width rear view mirror.

I could tllt my head up enough to see the rear view mirror so seeing the monitor should be the same.

Big mistake. I wear glasses and need magnification to read.
When you look in the rear view mirror of your car or truck your eyes are focusing on things behind your car i.e. many feet way and focusing to see objects at that distance is easy.

When the monitor comes on now it is like holding book up where the mirror is and trying to read it. Now your eyes are trying to focus on something inches away and you cannot see it. You need to use the lower reading part of your glasses so you have to tilt your head far back so the image on the monitor is being seen through the reading lens.

There is a solution to that called Trademan's glasses. These glasses have the normal reading bi focal lens at the bottom, the long distance lens in the middle but then there is another reading lens at the top of the glasses.

These glasses were designed for people who work over their head all the time and the excess tilting of their head to see though the lower reading lens caused a lot of neck pain. Now with a reading lens up top, the head tilting is minimal.

If you can come up with a design for your tractor that overcomes these limitations, at a reasonable cost many will be interested.

Dave M7040

Thanks for the comments Dave! I actually have my tractor now and it does have the camera installed. The camera system they installed is an all weather heavy duty system. I haven't used the tractor a lot so far because the weather has been pretty nice. But the few times I have used it when blowing snow it has worked perfectly.

They told me the camera has a heater in it so it shouldn't ice up or collect snow. So far that seems to be true. I've had snow/water built up on my back window making hard to see out of but the camera was still clear. But I haven't used it enough to really say for sure it wont be a issue.

If you follow the link in my signature you can see the camera in action and my thoughts on it so far.

One thing I haven't added on that post yet is the distance overlay feature. I just figured out how it works so I'll update that soon. It allows me to judge how close I am to something when I'm backing up, even if you don't have an implement on the back. So this summer when I just have my mmm hooked up I think it will come in very handy.

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B2650 Configure/Questions

KubotaVet

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rkidd

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