battery charging light

creekscout

New member

Equipment
L2550
Feb 13, 2010
7
0
0
williamstown,pa,usa
I have a l2550 that I inherited from my father who bought it new in 1987. I would like to know how I can fix it so the charging light goes out. When he changed the original battery with an aftermarket battery and ever since the light is always on. Is there someway to fix it so the light goes out and only comes on when there actually is a problem?
 

Abe

Member

Equipment
L2250, 60"MMM, 6' Rear Blade, 6' Front mount Blade, 2 Furrow Plow, 7' Lift Boom,
Sounds a lot like my 1986 L2250. I understand the original battery had a sensor tied in with the charging light. I also understand that the original battery is no longer available, so that light will always be on as is mine. Someone else may have better or different info.
Abe
 

texasgeezer

New member

Equipment
l2250dt
Nov 10, 2011
32
0
0
pottsboro tx usa
Hi, I purchase an L2250dt about 5 weeks ago. Probably will be a good tractor when (and if) I finish working on it. Told it was a very 'good' tractor.

In looking at problems, I found a light on the dash that I thought meant it was not charging. Checked alternator, it was good. Put on new regulator & light was still on.

I noticed a wire hanging near the voltage regulator. Tested it for voltage & got no reading.

I had read the post about the old style battery & thought this might be the old lead that was used by the original battery. Connected 12 volts to it & the dash light went out. Removed the 12v & the light came back on.

I plan to use that light for some type of warning, probably an early warning for engine temperature with a 'snap switch' of about 200 degrees wired to 12 volts on one side & the old connector on the other.

I've had countless hours & countable dollars trying to get a few simple problems resolved.

- major corrosion of the aluminum gear cover housing & thermostat housing
- power steering portion of hydraulic pump was not turning due to an original design error in the 'coupler bushing' inside the pump. Luckily found a good used one that has an improved 'coupler bushing' (took it apart to check if it was broken) very happy to see the pump had a heavier coupler inside of it with no sign of wear or breakage.

- I've made the mistake of pulling the head to have it checked for cracks or if it needed a valve job. Took it to a local machine shop with good equipment & about 30 years of operation, also used by local Kubota dealer, & asked them to check it for me. Got it back & it looked good, then found that a Kubota engine service manual says to replace the head if it is out of spec on warpage no mention of resurfacing.

The machine shop decided it would be 'good' to do a valve job & resurface the head (they did this without contacting me). Possibly didn't need either.
I specifically asked them to 'check it' for needed work. My main concern was if there were any cracks.

Now I'm worried that my compression will be too high due to the resurfacing. Only about .006" tolerance range of "top clearance" above the piston to the cylinder head according to the manual info.

Machine shop apparently did not check for warpage, just decided to do it to make sure it was OK.

I'm going to the Kubota dealer today & hopefully they give me an "it's probably OK" that the head was resurfaced. I plan to go by the machine shop also to see if they have any idea how much material was removed during the resurfacing.

I know I've given more information than you requested but I couldn't sleep last night due to worries about having to possibly spend more than $1500 to buy a new head due to the machine shop 'wanting to make sure it was "good?" when they gave me my old head back.

In buying used parts & new gaskets & hoses, thermostat from Kubota the corrosion & power steering parts & a little labor has cost me about $2300 so far.

If I have to buy a new head I'll have spent almost as much to get a 'runner' as I paid for what should have been a good tractor. Probably have spent about 60 hours of internet searching for parts & information & about 10 hours of work time on the tractor.

If my old head is useable, I'm estimating my total cost for the corrosion & head work to approach $3000. With a new head it will cost about $4500.
 

texasgeezer

New member

Equipment
l2250dt
Nov 10, 2011
32
0
0
pottsboro tx usa
An update on my previous rambling after my reply on the 'charging light.

Luckily, the local Kubota dealer said the engine service manual comments about replacing the head if it was out of spec 'is a little too stringent'. They send heads out to be resurfaced fairly often. Machine shop has an excellent reputation and said that due to the shape of the head machining it would not increase the compression.