R1 or turf? what's the best tire for which use?

prof.fate

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75 L175, 14 toro timesaver, Landpride boxblade, countyline auger
Nov 9, 2017
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Beaver, PA
R1 to me is a 'tractor' tire - farming..mud, dirt, etc.
turf is grass and mowing.

I purchased an L175 that has turf tires on it - the previous owner mowed grass with it, great for them.

My uses will be some mowing (2 acres a week w/ belly mower), 15 acres of brush hogging horse pasture to keep the weeds down...4 times a year perhaps?.

I'm also doing a bit of post hole digging (tires don't matter), box blade work and soon I hope snow pushing.

What i've done so far is box blade work...it's been wet and i get a good bit of tire spinning..the tractor lacks the optional diff lock.

I figure for the 'dirt' work ag tires (r1) would be better...what are they like for mowing/brush hogging? Gonna shake my teeth out?

I would like to get a tiller..it would be a once or twice a year thing unless i can hire myself out...not gonna till mud..so does tire choice matter a whole lot?
 

Creature Meadow

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2012 L4600, Disk, Brush Hog, GB60 Garden Bedder, GSS72 Grading Scraper
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I have R4 tires and find them very universal. I brush hog, loader work, sub soil, 3/4 mile drive I grade, disk garden 3/4 acre, till garden, etc.

They will tear up the yard if turning sharp and in 4WD, otherwise when dry little dame to yard. No MMM on my L4600 so I am not in yard much.

R1's will tear of yard for sure.

Turfs better on yard but not so good for traction when needed.

I like my R4's as I am not a real farmer and don't need to work in muddy areas or feed cows after a big rain or plow through snow.
 

whirly

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I've had all 3 types and understand your dilemma.

R4's would be the best choice for your situation - IMHO. You may need chains in the snow ... I wouldn't know as the only snow I see is on the mountain up 9,000 -14,000 ft. Mud I know. All tires types will spin under the wrong conditions at the wrong time.

If you are going do ground contact work - box blade, sub-soiling or plowing - IN MUD you'll need the R1's but they will make a mess of your yard no matter how careful you are. Other wise the R4's are a happy compromise between the two and do just fine in most wet conditions.

Another plus for the R4's is they don't leave as much rubber on the road when you have to use the pavement. R1's will last thousands of hours on your tractor if you stay on dirt. Running them on the road will eat them up in a hurry.
 

RCW

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I would start with loading tires if not done already, and chains on your turfs.

Your mowing quite a bit of territory, so turfs are fine. For occasional box blade or tiller work, chains will help traction.

Seems like a simpler, less expensive option to changing tires, and maybe rear wheels too.

If it's 4WD, you will probably need to change fronts too, to get proper rolling circumference ratios.

If that doesn't work to your satisfaction, then look at tire options.

Good luck!
 
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hodge

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I mow with R1's, and I don't tear up the grass. So, how you drive is more important than which tire you have.
A heavy lugged tire will always do better in mud, because turfs fill up.
Changing tires isn't cheap, so you first need to determine what your highest percent of usage will be. You can do everything you've described with R1's or R4's, but not turfs. So, it would seem that changing tires would be of benefit. As suggested, you can use chains on the turfs, but that isn't a good long term solution, if you need the greater traction often.
Once you've decided, then look at filling your tires with fluid. No sense in filling your turfs, and deciding that you still need more traction.
I've run turfs, barred tires. The bars overlap, so they don't shake your teeth.
 
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RyeThomas

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Dec 23, 2015
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R4’s are far better. I have a 3032e with R4’s a 4310 with R4’s and a new to me 4510 with R1’s. I don’t care if I’m driving straight in 2wd the R1’s destroy the turf, simple principle R1’s are more aggressive. If your not playing around in mud R1’s are not the best. Most every dealer around me sells R4 on everything, they are simply the best all around tread.
I’m going to have to spend big bucks to swap mine but it’s going to happen at tax season. The R1’s are only for a select few.
 

RCW

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Changing tires isn't cheap, so you first need to determine what your highest percent of usage will be.
Hodge nailed it.

If you're doing 95% mowing and just occasionally playing in the dirt for an hour or 2 per year - stick with loaded turfs and chains.

Just stay out of the mud with the box blade - I do. :)

In snow, some say turfs alone, or turfs with chains are better than R1 or R4 w/chains, since chains don't fall between the treads of R1 or R4. Betting your tractor is 2WD, so snow pushing will probably need chains if you need to push any amount of snow.

When tight, I think chains are fine on all 3 types.....

However, like Hodge said, if dirt work is more significant % or hours, skip loading them and look for something different.

I've mowed with all 3 - R4 on my Kubota, and R1 and turfs on 2 older heavier-duty garden tractors in the 900lb-range. All worked fine except for a steep part of my yard where I have to turn around a tree - not tire's doing - just terrain.

Personally, I wouldn't like you to make a change, and then not like that either..... :(

So first, you need to follow Hodge's advice.....and only you can make that determination.;)

Good Luck, and let us know what you decide!
 
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2458n

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Jun 21, 2010
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covington ohio
Use what you have. Load the rear tires and get chains for the rear. My tractor is near yours and I believe R1s require a different rim. My R1s are 35 years old and I am on my 3rd set of fronts. Bought my tractor used and could have bought a extra set of turfs and rims for 350.00. Never missed them so far.
 

Lil Foot

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the tractor lacks the optional diff lock.
Really? Never heard of a Kubota without a diff lock. Learn something new every day.
 

prof.fate

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75 L175, 14 toro timesaver, Landpride boxblade, countyline auger
Nov 9, 2017
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Beaver, PA
The 'good old days'...tractor is an L175, made 1973-76. Brochure someone posted for it lists it as optional.

I doubt tires are loaded..haven't checked. I tend to leave 'ruts' in the softer ground now...girl friend not happy about that...adding a few hundred pounds more weight would I assume make that worse...

Horse farm and 'ruts' of any kind are not favored as they can trip or injure a horse. COmpared to her 450lb 'tractor' (aka MTD made Huskee brand lawn mower with R1's on it) the Kubota leaves marks..turfs teh grass..I could just hear her if i put chains and load the tires and lost traction...:eek:

Working on building a snow plow for it and I've been warned in no uncertain terms to leave the gravel in the drive way or i'll be, well, demasculated shall we say :eek::eek::eek:

She's always paid for it to be plowed and has had good folks and those that make gravel piles alongside the driveway then she has to spend time putting the gravel back so the mower doesn't kick the rocks out at the horses (and chickens, cats..etc)
Really? Never heard of a Kubota without a diff lock. Learn something new every day.
 

PHPaul

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I had to get a little insistent with the dealer to get my 2650 equipped with R1 tires. 99.9% of his sales of B-series tractors are with R4's or turfs.

I mow pasture/field ground with a finish mower and unless I do something dumb like mow when it's too wet, I have no problems with tearing things up.

That being said, I don't know that I'd care to mow the front lawn with them.

My use of the tractor is varied enough that R1's are right for me.